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Code is P1570 (MOD01) Battery module individual voltage problem

Old 12-27-2016
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Code is P1570 (MOD01) Battery module individual voltage problem

Hi alls,

Current Situation:

Well here is the situation, my car is not charging the 12v battery because it dies after some running (Replaced with new one have same problem). In addition do not have any indicator for hybrid battery on the dash board as well. Check engine light, IMA light and 12v battery light is on. Car can run fine until 12v battery dies.

Background:

Car was running fine with check engine light on and IMA light on, though i can see the rapid discharging of the hybrid battery but It was not giving me any problem during regular operation of the car. I parked it for almost 18-20 days, mean while a friend of mine started the car but he never drove it.


After 20 days when i start driving the car i had red battery light on my dash board. I though it will go away when I'll drive the car. But instead of that my car died on one of the main road in a weird way. Steering got heavy, had Christmas lights on my dash board, and all electrical system started fluctuated and finally died.

Not forgot to mention the weather was extremely cold in those days.


Now can any one help me with this code ? either my hybrid battery is bad or is there anything else as well. If the battery is bad will grid charger work with my scenario?

Code is P1570 (MOD01) Battery module individual voltage problem.

Thanks in advance.
Old 12-27-2016
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Code is P1570 (MOD01) Battery module individual voltage problem

Hi alls,

Car details:
Honda Civic Hybrid
Model: 2006

Current Situation:

Well here is the situation, my car is not charging the 12v battery because it dies after some running (Replaced with new one have same problem). In addition do not have any indicator for hybrid battery on the dash board as well. Check engine light, IMA light and 12v battery light is on. Car can run fine until 12v battery dies.

Background:

Car was running fine with check engine light on and IMA light on, though i can see the rapid discharging of the hybrid battery but It was not giving me any problem during regular operation of the car. I parked it for almost 18-20 days, mean while a friend of mine started the car but he never drove it.


After 20 days when i start driving the car i had red battery light on my dash board. I though it will go away when I'll drive the car. But instead of that my car died on one of the main road in a weird way. Steering got heavy, had Christmas lights on my dash board, and all electrical system started fluctuated and finally died.

Not forgot to mention the weather was extremely cold in those days.


Now can any one help me with this code ? either my hybrid battery is bad or is there anything else as well. If the battery is bad will grid charger work with my scenario?

Code is P1570 (MOD01) Battery module individual voltage problem.

Thanks in advance.
Old 12-27-2016
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Re: Code is P1570 (MOD01) Battery module individual voltage problem

(Posts consolidated because both are related to the same problem.)


Replacing the IMA battery unit will probably solve all of the above symptoms mentioned.
Old 01-24-2017
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Re: Code is P1570 (MOD01) Battery module individual voltage problem

Originally Posted by ezone
(Posts consolidated because both are related to the same problem.)


Replacing the IMA battery unit will probably solve all of the above symptoms mentioned.
I appreciate your response but it was the DC to DC converter. I have fixed it.
Old 01-28-2017
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Re: Code is P1570 (MOD01) Battery module individual voltage problem

I have seen a code 1570 on this car depending on conditions sometimes it goes away. It's not the end of the HV pack though. Assuming you have a pack that is in fair to good shape: If you leave the car sitting too long, the hybrid battery discharges to a point where it won't be charged by the IMA. The car may try to charge it when you start with the regular battery and fail or error out, and shut down the IMA. Then you are running your little 12v battery down, because of all the electric powered accessories it may not charge and show low below 1500rpm. Time of year: winter. I let mine sit 3 weeks but I have an aftermarket offline constant current charger. To fully charge the battery would take this 80 hours if it was all the way down. This is assuming 8 amp hours charging at 100mA. In my case I added the line charger to the HV pack (can buy these from third parties in LA area)..........you better know what you are doing and follow their instructions. This gives you the ability to revive the pack and get IMA working again. I had been maintaining the charge for 1-2 hours every few days. It was not enough. When I got the car out it was in IMA Fail mode. So, I gave it 8 hours at 100mA and that got it going again. The charger I got has a battery powered voltmeter built in. The pack was near 155 volts. After the 8 hours it was up to 168 volts. At that point the IMA showed a few bars charge, and upon startup the IMA charged it. THis is without resetting the IMA by pulling the fuze for IMA. Without the HV line charger (the supply was designed to charge this pack) the only way to charge the battery is this. Pull IMA fuse. After a few minutes replace the fuse. Start car, note IMA will try to charge it for a minute. Repeat until charge gets high enough to allow IMA to think its OK and charge normally during deceleration or cruise. One can also periodicaly start the car weekly and charge the battery. They don't like to sit more than a week or two then self discharge lowers the pack energy too much. Or, using the voltage monitor and the offline charger, bring the pack up to 165-168 volts. IF you don't see that voltage on your pack or get very fast discharge maybe your pack is too worn out. Mine is still usable and the IMA provides most of the aux power for the car so its really good if its working. In the winter the 12v battery won't run things very long all by itself. Anyway I just figured this out this week how much energy will be needed to bring the pack into IMA happy mode, its a lot! But sometimes you can't drive the car often enough, for it to maintain itself and this is a great workaround. Solved by observation and experimentation. Still working after 13 years! It has about 70K miles on it not heavy use. Now the only problem it has is O2 sensors....welcome thoughts on that. I have aftermarket replacements for the two sensors I can see under hood. They have opposite connectors. I have the slotted plug wrench to take them out. So we'll see how that goes. Don't expect help on this from dealers they may say they can replace the pack for thousands, but aftermarket can also do that by selecting good cell packs from parted out vehicles. The particular panasonic NIMH battery is no longer made. The good packs are just selected batteries so far as i've seen. -Honda Civic Hybrid owner.
Old 07-20-2017
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Re: Code is P1570 (MOD01) Battery module individual voltage problem

hi can I have a picture how it is please
Originally Posted by ezone
(Posts consolidated because both are related to the same problem.)


Replacing the IMA battery unit will probably solve all of the above symptoms mentioned.
Old 07-21-2017
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Re: Code is P1570 (MOD01) Battery module individual voltage problem

Pic was labeled 2006 Civic USA

Old 05-20-2020
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Re: Code is P1570 (MOD01) Battery module individual voltage problem

How did you figure out it was the DC to DC converter? My car is having similar issues as yours was. One exception is my scanner is showing zero error codes. Did you have to take it to Honda?
Old 06-16-2020
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Re: Code is P1570 (MOD01) Battery module individual voltage problem

Hello all from the sunny UK!

I have personally never seen an HCH2 with a P1570 fault that is traced down to a failed dc to dc converter

P1570 is a very common code for older HCH2's it is as described "individual Voltage Input Failure" what it means is that one or more of the twin cell modules has a failed or reversed or weak cell within it. They come in a twin welded "stick" format with 6 cells in each stick and with two sticks that makes 12 cells.
In my experience even when you find the stick pair that has the faulty cell in it (which is easy by the way) & change it for a good second hand or reconditioned one it's a pretty pointless excercise as the replacement will hardly ever match the others in capacity (mah) which will cause balance faults & there will be others within the pack just about to fail, its also a job you probably won't want to do over & over again.
By far the best bet is to fit brand new cell modules throughout. If your car is a good one other than this problem its worth it IMHO.



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