Rattling noise coming from front/front left of engine...
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Just started a yesterday. A random rattling noise coming from the front or maybe the front left (passenger). Doesn't get worse with increase in engine RPM (maybe a little better if anything). Engine seems fine as far as HP and temp. Buddy of mine thinks it sounds like a bearing. Kinda sounds like it might be coming from the belt/pully area. Hard to tell.
Any known issues with this sort of thing?
Any known issues with this sort of thing?
#2
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Rattling noise coming from front/front left of engine...
Open the hood and see (figure out exactly) where the noise is coming from?
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The legs in the public bathroom stall
Re: Rattling noise coming from front/front left of engine...
3 methods
1) hold a bar/long screwdriver/stethoscope to your ear and hold the other end against components until you find the loudest
2) same as above but use a section of small diameter hose and hold it near suspect areas
3) wear earplugs
1) hold a bar/long screwdriver/stethoscope to your ear and hold the other end against components until you find the loudest
2) same as above but use a section of small diameter hose and hold it near suspect areas
3) wear earplugs
#5
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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Just got back from Honda dealer. AC compressor shot. Doesn't surprise me, my AC has been working intermittently for 2 years. I heard many people have some sort of issue with the AC in 2007-2009 Civics.
They quoted me $900 to repair. This something fairly easy to do at home? (minus the AC recharge)
They quoted me $900 to repair. This something fairly easy to do at home? (minus the AC recharge)
#7
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Rattling noise coming from front/front left of engine...
For a compressor clutch/pulley kit? (very common)
Or an entire compressor? (very rare to actually have a compressor failure, but often replaced anyway)
Or an entire compressor? (very rare to actually have a compressor failure, but often replaced anyway)
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Rockauto has the condenser for $200.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....0350&jsn=10350
They quoted 3 hours to do the job. Not sure where where are getting the additional $600. The $900 they quoted included the Autozone compressor which is $300. What is the cost of an A/C system complete rechrage usually?
#9
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Rattling noise coming from front/front left of engine...
Like I said, it's very rare to have a real compressor failure on most Hondas. WHY do they want to replace yours? What is the exact issue with it?
Does the AC still cool ok while it works?
If it has high mileage, most common issues are the bearing in the pulley goes bad, or wear causes excessive clearance of the clutch.
Try pricing a clutch and field coil to repair your original compressor instead.
There are a couple related threads in this forum, I know I posted pics of the clutch replacement job in at least one of them.
Does the AC still cool ok while it works?
If it has high mileage, most common issues are the bearing in the pulley goes bad, or wear causes excessive clearance of the clutch.
Try pricing a clutch and field coil to repair your original compressor instead.
There are a couple related threads in this forum, I know I posted pics of the clutch replacement job in at least one of them.
#10
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Rattling noise coming from front/front left of engine...
Most places want to replace your compressor for any little issue......Most people will replace with a cheapo reman that can cost you dearly later on when it fails.
Autozone falls into the "cheapo" category.
Most don't realize you can buy the clutch pieces separately from the compressor through Honda. I always prefer to keep an original compressor working as long as possible. I really don't see genuine compressor failures in my area, but I sure hear about them getting replaced by everyone else.
Autozone falls into the "cheapo" category.
Most don't realize you can buy the clutch pieces separately from the compressor through Honda. I always prefer to keep an original compressor working as long as possible. I really don't see genuine compressor failures in my area, but I sure hear about them getting replaced by everyone else.
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Like I said, it's very rare to have a real compressor failure on most Hondas. WHY do they want to replace yours? What is the exact issue with it?
Does the AC still cool ok while it works?
If it has high mileage, most common issues are the bearing in the pulley goes bad, or wear causes excessive clearance of the clutch.
Try pricing a clutch and field coil to repair your original compressor instead.
There are a couple related threads in this forum, I know I posted pics of the clutch replacement job in at least one of them.
Does the AC still cool ok while it works?
If it has high mileage, most common issues are the bearing in the pulley goes bad, or wear causes excessive clearance of the clutch.
Try pricing a clutch and field coil to repair your original compressor instead.
There are a couple related threads in this forum, I know I posted pics of the clutch replacement job in at least one of them.
Can I just remove the compressor and go without A/C? Won't be needing it much until next spring. Would need a shorter belt, obviously, at a min.
#12
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Rattling noise coming from front/front left of engine...
You can just use a shorter belt to bypass the compressor.
Ask for a belt for a DX version of your car -- without AC.
No need to remove or change anything other than the belt for this, leave the compressor alone.
Belt routing for no A/C:
Once the belt is removed, spin the compressor pulley and see if the pulley bearing is shot.
.
Ask for a belt for a DX version of your car -- without AC.
No need to remove or change anything other than the belt for this, leave the compressor alone.
Belt routing for no A/C:
Once the belt is removed, spin the compressor pulley and see if the pulley bearing is shot.
.
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You can just use a shorter belt to bypass the compressor.
Ask for a belt for a DX version of your car -- without AC.
No need to remove or change anything other than the belt for this, leave the compressor alone.
Belt routing for no A/C:
Once the belt is removed, spin the compressor pulley and see if the pulley bearing is shot.
.
Ask for a belt for a DX version of your car -- without AC.
No need to remove or change anything other than the belt for this, leave the compressor alone.
Belt routing for no A/C:
Once the belt is removed, spin the compressor pulley and see if the pulley bearing is shot.
.
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#15
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Rattling noise coming from front/front left of engine...
Looks like when the correct length belt isn't fully seated on all of the pulleys at the same time......or if it really is seated properly, then belt is too short.
Your picture does not show you having the tensioner pulled back, and if so the belt WILL NOT wrap around the pulleys like that.
You must apply steady pressure to the tensioner and it will retract very slowly as there is a damper attached to it (shock absorber) that makes it hard to move.
What belt brand and part number did you get?
Here's what I came up with for 08
Honda number 56992-RNA-A11 (Bando)
Googled:
http://www.yoyopart.com/oem/11874302...992rnaa11.html
Your picture does not show you having the tensioner pulled back, and if so the belt WILL NOT wrap around the pulleys like that.
You must apply steady pressure to the tensioner and it will retract very slowly as there is a damper attached to it (shock absorber) that makes it hard to move.
What belt brand and part number did you get?
Here's what I came up with for 08
Honda number 56992-RNA-A11 (Bando)
Googled:
http://www.yoyopart.com/oem/11874302...992rnaa11.html
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Looks like when the correct length belt isn't fully seated on all of the pulleys at the same time......or if it really is seated properly, then belt is too short.
Your picture does not show you having the tensioner pulled back, and if so the belt WILL NOT wrap around the pulleys like that.
You must apply steady pressure to the tensioner and it will retract very slowly as there is a damper attached to it (shock absorber) that makes it hard to move.
What belt brand and part number did you get?
Here's what I came up with for 08
Honda number 56992-RNA-A11 (Bando)
Googled:
http://www.yoyopart.com/oem/11874302...992rnaa11.html
Your picture does not show you having the tensioner pulled back, and if so the belt WILL NOT wrap around the pulleys like that.
You must apply steady pressure to the tensioner and it will retract very slowly as there is a damper attached to it (shock absorber) that makes it hard to move.
What belt brand and part number did you get?
Here's what I came up with for 08
Honda number 56992-RNA-A11 (Bando)
Googled:
http://www.yoyopart.com/oem/11874302...992rnaa11.html
I'm taking the car in to Honda for the airbag recall Tuesday. They are going to put the shorter belt on (or at least try). All I have to do is get the old belt back on... Why couldn't Honda use the standard 14-15mm for the tensioner. FN 19mm isn't easy to find. I was using a 19mm 3/8" driver ratchet with a cheater bar... It broke.
Time to go to Harbor Freight for a couple cheap 19mm wrenches.
#17
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Rattling noise coming from front/front left of engine...
I was using a 19mm 3/8" driver ratchet with a cheater bar... It broke.
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My craftsman 3/8" drive ratchet. I went to Harbor Frieght and got a belt tool. Made it alot easier. Can get full motion out of tensioner. I got my old belt back on, might try the smaller one tomorrow. The HF set didn't include a 19mm crowfoot. Had to buy that set too. $20 total...
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