speedy25

Now that I have found the pulley on the compressor to be shagged out I thought I would see if you folks have had to deal with that problem.

Can I....

Replace clutch

Replace compressor

Of course clutch would be easier.. well maybe not. it would only be easier if it can be moved enough for a puller to yank it off, and if that part is even available!

Then there is complete compressor R&R which requires AC system open and close.

Any good pointers from the board?

TIA,

-SP

ezone

You can buy the pulley / clutch, and coil separate from the compressor.

Clutch and pulley set #4
Field coil set #9
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...%29+%281.8L%29



I have (so far) always got clutch sets replaced without opening the system. I may have to unbolt it from the engine to get room to work, but without removing the lines or discharging the freon.
I also have lots of nifty tools to get the job done.
(I think I am the only person in the shop that can do it this way too.)

Note: Sometimes it can be very difficult to get the pulley bearing inner race to come off of the snout of the compressor. It can become a real tight fit after it has been on there for a few years. I have broken the snout off of a compressor before. Be careful.


I wire up the clutch with a jumper wire, and set up a dial indicator and shoot for 0.5mm gap during reassembly.

HTH

speedy25

Thanks Ezone. You made my job a lot easier.

-SP

speedy25

Well of course a job just CANT be easy....!

Parts ordering was the easy part.

Yes you can remove the clutch without opening the system, BUT you do have to take off the alternator and associated braketry to release the compressor from the block.

Then you will probably have the same problem as I had- The 4mm screw that holds the coil wires out of the way will break off. To drill and re-tap, you have to remove the RH fan to give you enough room to use a standard cordless drill. Arrrgh,

Anyway, its finally back together, even though the boy I worked with on this project messed up the belt tensioner hex. I told him to order a new one.

Of course now there are new problems. AC stays on all the time instead of only on when the console switch is on. How the heck did that happen? Confirmed that is going on, since the compressor was spinning when the engine was running, but not spinning when the compressor power wire was disconnected.

Stuck relay? Or something else dumb that was missed. Anyone have any ideas. I would still like a wiring diagram if someone can PDF it out of a manual.

TIA,

-SP

speedy25

Bump.. Still looking for why compressor stays on.

-SP

ezone

Stuck clutch relay is the most common cause.

Note also, the compressor runs when defrost is selected.

speedy25

Gonna bump this one back into life.

Thanks ezone for the relay tip. Time to go searching for it.

New recent problem is poor airflow out of the vents when the AC is on. Anyone have trouble with the blend doors? You can hear the fan motor change speed with the control ****. I'll also pull the fan motor and see if some rodents have been living rent free, although you usually smell urine when that happens.

-SP

ezone

Here's a link: https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...ml#post4607306
I'd be surprised if it hasn't burped out a bunch of refrigerant already.
#1) Fix the relay problem first.
If the compressor runs continuously, the evaporator core can freeze solid, therefore reduced or no airflow.
#2) Don't pull the fan. Remove and check the cabin filter first...If it is clogged, that will restrict airflow. Open the glovebox wide (release the locks on the sides to open further), there's a trap door behind it that holds the cabin filter. You will see if mice have been there once you get it out and can look at it.

HTH
Ez1

speedy25

Heres the latest-

Relay is good. I can make it click and cycle the compressor by removal/install.

Now the fun part. When the boy had finished replacing the AC clutch, he had hooked up a Vantage scanner and the AC was on. It was NOT on in the car, or on defrost. He shut it off and it came back on by itself. That happened a few times.

My diagnosis is the AC computer is toast. Now where the heck is it!

Cabin filter was replaced a few years back, but I'll pull the glove box and check a few things.

-SP

ezone

The PCM should have the ability to display the status of its relay control and the AC Request. I have no idea if a Vantage can display that info though. If the AC REQUEST status was (YES) on the scanner above, then the next step is to get a wiring diagram and learn where that request originates. There are other components involved that could have control of the system (MICU, shorted wire). HVAC control panel > thermal protector and lots of wiring > MICU > communication network > PCM........I suppose if you simply unplug the HVAC panel and the comp shuts off, then the panel or its controls were keeping it on. But if the comp continues to run, then it's something else. Yearly or every 25-30k. Hell, check it every 6 months. Check it whenever fresh air flow seems slowed down. It all depends on your environment. We had one in the shop last week that mice had loaded with seeds, like 4 pounds worth. I see them loaded with tree droppings all the time. If you drive dirt roads or construction areas all the time I'd expect that filter to load up much quicker than all highway driving. Forest fires near you? See the differences?

speedy25

Ezone still around??

Well this old thread from 2013 had a fix of a used climate control unit. All that was great until today when it went back to its old habits of AC on all the time! Well its hot out right now, so I dont mind. If it cools off before I get another climate control unit I can just unplug the compressor.
The car has over 350k and still rolling, but it has been down on power. A leakdown test has #3 being much weakier than the others, but no crazy noises or excessive oil consumption, so I'll just keep driving it. I suspect a rust problem will finally take it down.
-SP

BrotatoChip

Actually, yes. @ezone

ezone

Same symptom = same problem.. . I'm not sure if new parts were improved to fix this issue or not.

Check and adjust valve clearances, could be the cheapest fix. or not.

and check your airbag recalls. Yes again.

Pemburton

I have a 2013 Honda Civic. Changed relay, pressure switch, compressor and condenser and it still blows hot air. Drive at 70 mph for 45 mins no change at all.
any suggestions?

BrotatoChip

What do the high/low pressures read?

ezone

got freon?