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to educate, one must listen.
Since all i see is counter arguing just for the sake of counter arguing, or because the answer is not what you want it to be, then it is a waste of time.
I am simply asking questions to understand better since the answers I'm getting don't make sense to me. I don't consider that a waste of energy.
Life lesson #2743: "Unlearn what you have learned." Some of the knowledge you 'know to be true' may not be true, and could be hindering your ability to learn new knowledge.
Again, from the beginning:
Purpose of a torque converter is torque multiplication
Extrapolate from that....
You were supposed to learn out how a torque converter achieves torque multiplication, and apply that knowledge to your query.
Torque converter cannot multiply torque at 1:1 drive ratio.
So I had my radio out of my Civic earlier today because a CD got stuck in it and I needed to get it out. While I had the radio out, I decided to do a voltage drop test to see how much voltage is lost in the factory wiring. I found that there is actually a significant amount of voltage drop in the constant power wire, and also a bit of voltage drop in the ground wire. With the radio turned up all the way, I was measuring up to about 1.6 volts of drop on the power wire that is hot at all times, and about 0.3 volts of drop on the ground wire. That's almost 2 volts of drop! So what I did is I ran a 14 gauge wire from the ground on the radio to the chassis, and a 14 gauge wire protected by a 10 amp fuse from the under hood fusebox to the "always hot" wire on the radio. So this upgrade cost me nothing since I have wire and a fuse holder sitting here anyway, and it made a decent improvement. What I noticed is that the sound isn't as distorted at higher volumes, which makes sense since the radio is no longer starved for power when it is under load. Anyways, I just thought someone may find this information useful.
Interesting observation. I've been wanting to do the same with the power window switches to see if the motor struggles a little less. I'm sure you get a little more bass out of the car now.
Interesting observation. I've been wanting to do the same with the power window switches to see if the motor struggles a little less. I'm sure you get a little more bass out of the car now.
I bet the motor would struggle less. If I pull the front right window switch on the driver's side door and pull the switch on the passenger's side door at the same time, I can hear the motor speed up.
So I am just asking how much quicker my Civic would be able to accelerate with a 5 speed manual transmission compared to the stock 4 speed auto. Thanks.
So I am just asking how much quicker my Civic would be able to accelerate with a 5 speed manual transmission compared to the stock 4 speed auto. Thanks.
it would feel A LOT faster with a 5 speed. the butt dyno would say it's twice as fast. it's also great because there's one less fluid, two less fluid lines, and less electronics to deal with. i can't find any actual numbers. guessing i'd say you'd drop .5 to .9 off your 0-60
-if you do intend to switch to a banger, keep the sensor that tells the computer what gear the car is in. some cars you need that sensor to tell the auto computer it's in park or neutral in order to have the car start.
it would feel A LOT faster with a 5 speed. the butt dyno would say it's twice as fast. it's also great because there's one less fluid, two less fluid lines, and less electronics to deal with. i can't find any actual numbers. guessing i'd say you'd drop .5 to .9 off your 0-60
-if you do intend to switch to a banger, keep the sensor that tells the computer what gear the car is in. some cars you need that sensor to tell the auto computer it's in park or neutral in order to have the car start.
Thanks. You are right about needing to keep the gear switch because it won't go above 5K RPM if it isn't in gear, so it would need to think it's in gear.
Should be asking 'Which one is less slow?'
You're probably around 17-18ish seconds for a quarter mile with either trans. May as well time it with a calendar.
I think upgrading the stock HU would be more beneficial then the wiring. Yea it would help but you are pushing 10-15W through the wires now (idk what the stock HU speaker output is rated at).
I think upgrading the stock HU would be more beneficial then the wiring. Yea it would help but you are pushing 10-15W through the wires now (idk what the stock HU speaker output is rated at).
Probably. But upgrading the wiring is much cheaper, and it also prepares the car for more upgrades, like a head unit and speakers.
Probably. But upgrading the wiring is much cheaper, and it also prepares the car for more upgrades, like a head unit and speakers.
running all new speaker wires would be a huge pain in the *** for no real benefit.
do the head unit. and maybe front speakers. i did both on my car and it made a huge difference, plus i now have hands free, and usb input.
one day ill do the rears when i feel like ripping apart the back of the car
I don't think it would make much difference. The aftermarket headunit is probably pushing 22-25watts over a small wire that's less than 10ft long. I doubt you'll hear a difference by upgrading from a 20awg wire to a 14awg over that short of difference and that small of wattage. If you really want to jam out then invest in a 2/4 channel amp(s) to push the speakers harder. .... It wouldn't be a cheap upgrade though.
it would feel A LOT faster with a 5 speed. the butt dyno would say it's twice as fast.
Maybe with a 6th gen base model (lx,dx) auto vs manual but in my experience a 6th gen EX auto feels as fast or faster than it's manual counterpart. Seventh gen automatics shifter faster than 6th gen base models and similar to a 6th gen EX and I think the feel of "twice" as fast may be a stretch. Possibly in the first two gears but after that wouldn't notice much difference.
So all of a sudden my car has low power. The engine still runs well and doesn’t misfire and has no relevant codes, but the power is much less than normal, especially at higher RPMs. For example, when I floor it getting onto the highway, depending on speed, it downshifts to either first or second gear like it normally would, but the engine bogs down. It slowly accelerates until the engine reaches around 5000 RPM, but it feels like it can’t keep accelerating until it upshifts. After maxing out the gear it’s in at 5000 RPM, it upshifts to the next gear and begins slowly accelerating again. Fuel pressure is good. Any ideas what could be causing this? Thanks.
It’s acting like a clogged cat, but it doesn’t have a cat. An exhaust restriction seems unlikely since it has a straight pipe system going to a Flowmaster muffler.
Thanks for your help, I finally found the problem. The problem was that the exhaust was pinched from scraping on a speed bump. I had a new piece of pipe welded in and it’s back to normal.
I noticed that when the alternator goes into “low charge” mode at around 12.4 volts, the battery is actually being drained rather than kept charged. I am presuming that this is because I have a high end AGM battery, which is fully charged at around 13.2 volts instead of around 12.6 like a standard 12v battery. So did the engineers at Honda presume that people would only use OEM batteries, or is this a flaw in the specific type of battery I have? Thanks.
Honda assumed people would use a standard lead acid battery because “economy grocery getter”.
Well to me it seems stupid for them to design the electrical system to only work correctly with an OEM style battery. IMO, you should be able to use a high end battery without problems. And IMO, the “economy grocery getter” argument doesn’t work because Honda/Acura uses the same “dual mode” charging system on all of their vehicles, including their luxury and sports cars.
09-12-2018
