btemp1398

Im picking up a ej1 1995 Honda civic coupe complete rolling shell with 5 speed vtec transmission. I wanted a shell so i can do a swap.
This is my 1st honda, i know very little to none about hondas whatsoever. My question is What is the best engine swap for it.
Im looking for something around 130+ stock hp. From my understanding d engine would be easy but they are slow. Im looking more for around b16 b18 b20 seen things of ls engines but don't know about them, maybe even k20 swap.
I have a little over 1000 to dump into the engine/tranny. I know friends that are into hondas and can get me cheap engine/trannys so prices I'm not to worried about. I do want it to be vtec tho, i mean whats the point in a honda without vtec. I don't know much difference between engines or how much work id have to do, i don't have to keep the tranny thats in it now i just want to know my options, price range, and hp I'm looking at.
Thanks

marek91

With it being your first Honda, I would suggest a more basic direct swap like a B16.
You will get your desirable VTEC and two cams!
For the most part your B16 will be a direct drop into the EG.
If the EG was already swapped with a B before it may make things easier.
If not no big deal.
You would need your Engine I recommend an OBD1 (B16), B series Hydro Transmission, B series Shifter linkage, B series Axles, B series Engine mounts, and finally an ECU that can run the motor.

By all means if you can get a K swap with all of the parts required and the computer go that way. But speaking from experience a K Swap will usually run you way north of $1000.

Wankenstein

A (years '97-00) JDM B20B or (years '99-00) USDM B20Z low compression (without knock sensor) block combined with a 95-00 B-series (Acura) LS non-Vtec head will net around 130 HP and 125 Torque. Unlike B16's which are low torque and deliver power at higher rpms the B20 has greater torque that's used across the entire power band. It's a very punchy and it's rev limiter is around 7,400 rpms..so also cable of higher revs. B20's low compression engine are generally cheaper than B16's.

You'll need to consider which ECU to use so do some research. A good, chipped basemap tune from a reputable company such as: Xenocron, Phearable, HA Motorsports should be all you need but, if you want max power and effeciency than take it a step farther with a tune.

If you want to bump up in power yet stay naturally aspirated then you might want to consider a B20 high compression (has a knock sensor) block with a B-series Vtec head. There's a few modifications needed to supply oil to the Vtec when combined with a B20. That setup will be around 195 hp and 175 torque after tuning.

I also have a '95 EX coupe and it has a low compression JDM B20 with LS non-Vtec head combination. Has a/c but power steering pump is removed and the rack is fully de-powered. Transmission is an LS 5-speed. Fun car, much like a go cart. Doesn't pull real hard but corners great.

btemp1398

Thanks for the help and advice! After extensive research iv decided i'd like to go with the b20 vtec build. I didn't end up getting the car listed at the top. I have a 2000 Ek coupe, it had a b16 in it and i have a si tranny with it. Couple questions i have is

1. id like to do b16 head , what's the opinion on getting it shaved at a machine shop
2. What all does need to be done to supply oil
3. Do i need to build the block or head at all? Or can i run them both stock reliably, would the shaved head impact this
4. If i do this then run a chipped ecu with vtec and run either type r base map or get it tuned?
5. Random question, what is the point in everyone doing a power steering delete on there swaps

Wankenstein

Reputable OBD1 Vtec basemap sellers:
Xenocron: http://www.xenocron.com/chipped-obd1...7ceua8f5snkfh6
HA Motorsports: https://www.hamotorsports.com/socket...p-package.html
Phearable: http://www.phearable.net/engine-comp...-vtec-ecu.html
Email them for recommendations based on the components (bolt-ons) you intened to use. Also, talk to some local tuners in your area. A basemap will get you close to optimal power and effeciency. A tune should achieve maximum power and effeciency.

Read through several of these B20/Vtec build posts:
https://www.google.com/search?source....0.dM21PfsN5eE

Here's a search of B20/Vtec conversion kits. They are optional but include everything needed for the conversion: https://www.google.com/search?q=b20+....0.wsNwxxFqvUA

The quality of the build depends on the amount of funds you have. Obviously a full rebuild including sleeved pistons would provide the most reliability and longevity but will be in the thousands $$ unless you intend to do it all yourself. Regardless, with a full DIY rebuild some machining will be required so I would assume (but, not 100% sure) that parts + minimal machining will be $700 or more and that doesn't include the engine price.

The least expensive route:
Find a 99-00 CRV with a high compression engine that is still in the vehicle and running so that you can test it: compression, leakdown, etc..
However, the high compression engine is getting harder to find and most likely more expensive than a low compression. Another option is through a JDM seller. These are engines from Japan (such as the B20B) which "supposedly" have between 40k-60k miles on them: http://www.superstreetonline.com/how...ed-jdm-motors/ Here's a sample of a JDM seller's claim: http://www.jdmengineswapdepot.com/category_s/115.htm

I purchased my car (has a JDM engine) from a guy who has performed five swaps and three of them used a JDM engine from JDM Orlando: https://www.jdmorlandoinc.com/ Read their claim on the bottom of the homepage: "All of our engines and transmissions average around 45-65k miles. "

He said they were all strong engines and performed well. At the time I bought my car from him it was guesstimated it had 70k miles on it. Before I purchased the car I had it checked over by an independent mechanic. Put it up on a rack to check suspension, steering, leaks, mounts, tires, other. he performed a leakdown test and all cylinders were in spec, no bubbles in coolant (head gasket check), no air from emitting exhaust or TB. Compression test read between 205-210 psi on all cylinders. Given the health of the engine in my car it seems like it might be a lower mileage engine but I have no way to prove that.

De-powered steering rack:
When I purchased my car is the power steering pump was removed and one of the steering lines was disconnected. However, that's not considered properly de-powered. A few months after purchase I removed the rack and cut off a metal/silicone seal inside the rack. Doing this stops the movement of trapped air inside the rack and makes it much easier to turn the wheel/rack There's youtubes and threads on the procedure. Another option is to buy a '91'-92 re-manufactured manual steering rack. Those are will fit with additional spacers on the rack mounts.They are a complete unit so no disassembly involved. The downside is they have a higher turning ratio which requires more effort from the driver during turns.

With manual (de-powered) steering ..three point turns and parallel parking is a lot harder compared to power steering. Other than that manual steering provides the driver a lot more feedback from the road during cornering and straight line driving compared to power steering. Once you get used to manual steering in these lightweight cars it's difficult to enjoy a power steering car as much.

btemp1398

Couldn't have asked for a better run down or explanation. Thanks a lot!

Johnnybgt

I am from Portugal and recently I acquired a 1995 Honda Cívic VI 1.4 90cv Fastback D14A6, however I don't have the user manual for that car and I really need or a user manual or a hay está manual. Please send me a email to Joaoarmandomartins77@gmail.com or use my WhatsApp +351928020821. Bye