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Ok so basically I'm bleeding the clutch by myself,
Got the tube over the bleeder valve leading into a bottle with brake fluid in it like I'm supposed to...

Now my question is, when I hold the pedal in place with a piece of wood should the bleeder valve be open? Or do i only crack it then shut it real quick.

 
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Grab a second person or get a mityvac (or similar) vacuum bleeder kit.....but it may still be a PITA even with those.

 
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i dont need a second person, i know it helps, but i just need to know the correct steps, i dont want to be opening the bleeder wrong everytime and waste 30min-1hour getting air right back into the system...

ericthecarguy said open it, press clutch in, close bleeder, release clutch, open bleeder, etc until you see fluid...BUT he did not touch on how to get air out, is it the exact same process, or do i not leave the bleeder open, just crack and close?

 
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Yea..it'd be a real inconvenience for someone to push the clutch in while you open the bleeder screw> let air out> tighten screw> release clutch pedal> repeat until all air is out. I 'd hate to waste 10 minutes of someone's time that way..lol.
My mom's on full time oxygen and she worked the brake pedal while I worked brake bleeders.

Another method is shown below in video. It's not a real secret as that dude in video makes it out to be..it's science as stated in the second video at 0:38 second mark.

At your discretion..try this method:

 
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The bleeding process itself is supposed to purge the hydraulic system of trapped air.

When it works.

 
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...I don't know why people think it takes so long, I bled mine in maybe 3min.

-I keep the box end ratchet on the bleeder.

-Rubber tube connected to bleeder, fixed with zapstrap, submerged in water bottle full of dot4.

-bleeder open 100% (here not worrying about air traveling back into system because I'm pumping it so fast, and able to close the bleeder quickly before refilling, because the wrench is always on the bleeder.

-pump through half bottle or so, to clear old fluid.

-Then close the bleeder.

-Get a friend to pump the clutch fast about 8 times, till it's hard, calling "pump". Then yell out "hold". They don't actually hold it fully depressed though. They start at the top and slowly push to the flour. While this happens you crack the bleeder open just short enough to see a spurt of air pockets if there are any.

-repeat "pump" and "hold," until there are no signs of air.

 
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thank you man yes im realizing i need another helper.

and the rubber tube only goes over the bleeder, it doesnt go furthur than than the threads, when i open bleeder all the way it almost feels like its gonna fall out and i can hear air come from the threaded end not the nipple end with the hose on it...maybe im trippin

il try another with open and my brother pumping clutch then on hold push in slow so i can get it closed. thanks mac!

 
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When I said all the way open I just meant open enough to get full flow, obviously don't spin the bleeder off until it's about to fall off, lol.

But I know you knew that.

Good luck.

 
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I have a full time job and 2 kids and usually no one around to help when I have the time

 
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Hey ezone, I have noticed on takeoff, if I ride the clutch a little as I'm taking off the car seems to accelerate better and not make as much noise at the clutch master...you think this is keeping the bubbles low by riding the clutch or maybe the pressure plate is sticking and riding the clutch helps it ease out completely better.

 
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Before I was in 4th grade, I was the designated pedal pusher whenever my dad was doing brake work.
When I couldn't push the brake pedal hard enough he would tell me to pull up on the steering wheel LOL

If you're driving it then you probably have the vast majority of the air bled out.

Trapped air bubbles always seek a high point.

Creak/pop noises in the master cylinder? Improved parts are probably available