CivicRage

uouio

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

Seems you have done your research. Start by changing your spark plugs and wires. Maybe even try a new entire throttle body that you can buy off ebay that comes with all the sensors and valves.

The other thing is get your head gasket checked, if your flooding the cylinders with coolant it could cause stalling and running rough. Check how much coolant you have and if you have air pockets you should really get it checked.

Change the pcv valve, if your timing was off the car would run rough all the time. Have you checked your dizzy??? Change the rotor and cap see if this helps.

And of course, check for vacuum leaks around the throttle body.

Just a few more things to look into, hopefully you can get this resolved quickly and cheaply!

CivicRage

uiopioup

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

If this started after you cleaned your throttle body than you may have put it back on incorrectly. Have you tried taking it off and putting it back on again? Cleaning the throttle body should be efficient enough unless you have a failed sensor or valve. The fact that you have no check engine light is making me lean towards a head gasket. Take it to a shop and get them to check for exhaust gases in the coolant system.

CivicRage

uiopuiopuo

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

"I'm also not showing any check engine light codes EVER since the stalling issue started. Oddly the stalling issue started after ALL of this tune up stuff was all added to the car. It seems like every time i add a new part to the car something else likes to fail somewhere.

Sorry, the above line is why I thought you cleaned the TB and then had the issue.

TPS sensor, but if that fails it generally throws a code. It's very hard to change JUST the sensor because calibrating it is a nightmare and you need special tools. That's why I suggested changing the TB.

CivicRage

uiopuiop

CivicRage

Fakkkk. Special tools. This car is seeming to be a special tool itself . I'll call and see if someone can do this for me then : (

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

Whoe wait a minute, did this start before you changed the timing belt, right after, or later? I suggest getting the dealership to change the TPS if your going to do it because a lot of other shops won't be able to do it properly.

CivicRage

uiopuiopuio

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

Why did the camshaft break? Did you snap a timing belt? That's a really thick piece of steel and does NOT break easy.

CivicRage

iopuiop

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

Hmmmmmmmmmmmm................. I think your idle problem might be internal. Let me think about it for a few minutes lol and search. If you put the dizzy on in the wrong timing position you may have bent a valve which could also cause your idle issue.

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

After a failure like a broken camshaft generally the rule of thumb is to get the head checked for warping, get all the valves checked and such to make sure nothing got destroyed. Did you crank the car or run it after you put the dizzy in the incorrect position? You probably have a bent valve, that's about the best I can come up with. After a timing belt breaks generally the head is garbage, I know you did not break your timing belt but a camshaft break I suspect would be similar to a timing belt break. I wonder if anyone else on the forum has some input here...

CivicRage

uiopuiop

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

Yes, unfortunately after internal failure it's hard to fix it right and it's usually better and cheaper to just replace the engine. Change the TPS sensor and the MAP sensor, that's a good place to start. I have a feeling your problem lies internally though. Your friend does not seem too far off but he should have had the head checked out before he installed the timing belt. Sorry for the bad news!!! Trying to help.

CivicRage

tyurtyurtyu

CivicRage

tyutyutryu

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

When your friend changed the cam, did he remove or disturb the Intake Manifold? If he did, he may have not replaced the IM gasket or cleaned the head and block off properly. Cleaning them is very important to getting a good seal and not getting a leak.

To check for leaks I get throttle body cleaner and with the car idling spray it over various parts of the throttle body. If the car changes RPMS when you spray a certain spot, you know that's where you have a vacuum leak. I've also heard of using brake cleaner for the same thing.

I can't help you with the EGR valve thing, I'm not too familiar with 99s. I can tell you that the three most important idle senors are the Idle Air Control Valve, MAP sensor, and TPS sensor. They have to be clean, and in working order or your idle will be a mess.

Hope this helps.

Oh also often a vacuum leak makes a whistling sound. That may be what he heard.

CivicRage

tryurty

keeffey

i had this issue with my 88, a good spray out of the pcv valve with carby cleaner fixed it