stock_ex

My 99 Honda Civic Ex continuously has a misfire. I ran fuel injector cleaner through under my mechanic's recommendation. Weeks later, my check engine light is still on. Now I've gotten the idea of doing an engine swap in to my head. It'd be my first engine build ever. I'm looking for recommendations on what would be the best engine to swap in to my civic and then do repairs on the d16 afterwards myself. Anything would help. I thought it was the pistons having a carbon buildup, my spark plug spacing, or even a leak. Thank you again in advance!

Colin42

Did you even bother to check the spark plugs?

stock_ex

Yes, I just replaced them last month.

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

how many cylinders is it misfiring on?

As for "best," what are you looking for? Power? Ease of swap? Cheapest to swap?

stock_ex

Since its my first swap, ease and cheapest. power not so much since this is my daily.

ezone

Why not figure out the problem with the engine you have now?

Compression test

stock_ex

I did one and my 3rd piston was bad. All of my pressures were below 135 psi which I read were the minimum pressures. My highest was 120 psi on the 4th piston.

ezone

There may be several reasons you come up with numbers that appear poor, yet the engine may still be okay (at least fixable) .....Including bad test equipment and less than ideal test methods.

Not really trying to dissuade you from an engine transplant if your heart is set on it, but thinking that proving what the real problem is and maybe doing a valve job (or whatever) to fix it might be good experience for you.

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

To answer your question, easiest and cheapest swap would be an OEM replacement (D16Y8). All you have to buy is the engine and swap it in.. Assuming everything is in good order on that engine, that is.

stock_ex

stock_ex

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

if it is the same as 7th gen, the oil rings collapsed, no need change pistons (based on ezone experience)

ezone

^but low compression on one cylinder may be a valve issue.

More testing (instead of guessing) is needed?

dcstomp83

Is he quoting JUST the piston change for 500?!?!?! A head gasket change will cost you around 1000 on the cheap end...i don't know about your mechanic but i'm not doing a piston change with the engine still in the car sooooo...looking at quite a price
and carbon build up on the piston surface is an easy clean...wd40 and scotch pads work great...

check the valve adjustment...adjust as needed (always do the adjustment stone cold and adjust to the loose end of the spectrum..they will tighten up on their own...if you go towards the tighter end then you're going to stick some valves open after a while.)...do another compression test...wet and dry...if still causing issues...check your timing marks...awesome way to get misfires is being off a few teeth on the cam...still getting misfires after that...start looking at your ignition system

start free...then go cheap...then look at expensive and weigh your options

dcstomp83

a compression test does not tell you a piston is bad...it tells you if you have compression in the cylinder...if you have valves sticking open or bent then it will prevent compression which in turn will cause misfires if the vehicle will even start...it can also tell you if you have a head gasket failure...

it can also show piston ring failure...that's why you do dry and wet. if your dry test shows 130 and your wet test shows 145 then rings MAY be bad....it can also just be a fuel washed cylinder all and the oil sealed it back up

if your compression test shows bad compression...it is a good idea to follow it up with a leak down test to pinpoint where the "compression" is going

stock_ex

Im planning a b20 swap and then rebuilding the d16 afterwards. there are so many options and possibilities.

stock_ex

I had an issue a little while ago where I thought the alternator took a ****, so I replaced it. Then the car didnt start at all. So I managed to get a tow and they ended up replacing the ignition system and then the car started and ran find.

dcstomp83

great swap in my opinion....expensive swap...but a great one...b20s are my personal favorite...i own a couple and looking to build a couple more...wiring harnesses/ecu/tranny...just keep your eyes open on a bunch of forums...a ton of great information out there...

anyways...you've got your mind made up on the swap so when you start pulling the engine out...you'll see why I had an issue with the guy quoting you 500....

***this is also a good time to ask yourself if you really need that a/c and power steering....i delete mine just for simplicity...and getting all the lines out of my way....permanently.....plus it doesn't get too awful hot up here and my windows work fine...the power steering...at times i miss it...also a great time to determine if you want a b20V-Tec or just a B20...Vtec is a metric F@$# ton more work compared to just a straight B20 swap...not saying it can't be done...I have one...it was a fun build...even more fun car...

MonoDemon

Have you checked the sensors? I have a 98 ex doing the same thing and it came up on the computer for a knock sensor