Dnxracer

Hey guys so I swapped a good running b20b4 into my 99 ek checked compression 139 on all 4 cylinders new plugs cap rotor no vacuum leaks checked three times smoke tested and brake clean tested no cel revs out fine and perfect no cut out replaced ect sensor map sensor tps and it's calibrated to spec new intake gakset new injectors flow tested and checked timing three times!!! Dead on the money I've been working on this for three months please help lol Idk what else to do oh yeah the problem is at idle after warmed up idles at 750 and all the sudden just does out of know where but starts right back up Everytime and I also replaced iacv and fuel filter when it dies it acts like I turned the motor off it makes no sense!!! I've checked the harnessgrounds and cleaned them especially the thermostat housing ground still no luck I also replaced fuel pump with the crv fuel pump that the engine came out of and also adjusted valves to spec any ideas would be help thanks guys!!

Wankenstein

Gawddammit buddy..take a breath when you write (LOL). So, you've done a bunch a **** on it and it keeps cutting out at idle, right? Which ECU are you using? Have a live data scanner to check fuel trims and o2 sensor voltages?
Have you tried adjusting the idle air screw per the service manual?

Dnxracer

Lmao sorry man!!! I'm so fukn frustrated with this car I can't figure it out it's driving me crazy lol and it drives perfectly fine just dies at idle and stalls after it's warm cold start it's fine and I don't have adata logger or i would do that too poor to buy one lmao

Dnxracer

And I've tried to adjust it like the manual but it never works it keeps dying reguardless what I do lol

Wankenstein

I have a B20 in my '95 EX coupe and just went through a similar issue (lean idle). I have a live and logging data scanner named Hondash. It's for OBD1 ECU's, bluetooth, correlates with a free app and works really well. I purchased it for $60 a few months ago. The designer lives in Czechoslovakia and is very good returning e-mails and customer support.

Anyway, with help from Ezone (longtime dealer mechanic) we narrowed it down to an ECU issue. The data scanner showed the o2 sensor reading 0 volts at idle so I replaced with a new Denso and it still read low voltage at idle. Did a lot of testing on it (without replacing parts) and with everything else ruled out..all signs pointed to the P75 ECU. I purchased a base-map ECU that disables the the o2 sensor from Phearable (tuner). The engine is running very well now. Since the o2 is disabled it no longer determines idle.

What is the fuel pressure readings?
have you tried spraying throttle body cleaner in the TB at idle when it starts to cut out?

Dnxracer

I have not what would that determine if it keeps it running?

Wankenstein

The correct fuel pressure: 42-45 psi at idle.
If idle raises when TB cleaner is sprayed in TB during low or dying idle it points to a lean fuel trim..which may point to an o2 sensor issue..if all other variables are in spec. This is where a data scanner is very beneficial. Which ECU do you have?

Dnxracer

Obd1 manual p75

Wankenstein

How long ago did you do the swap?
Has it ever idled correctly?

The previous owner did all the swaps on my car but it always had a low idle, hunting idle since I purchased it..until I replaced the ECU. Without fuel trims it's hard to pinpoint the issue your engine is experiencing. Spark, fuel, air..has to be the lack of one or a combination of to cause it to cut out.

Dnxracer

I did the swap two months ago and it hasn't idled correctly since I did it but I drove the crv 40 minutes to my house that I pulled the engine from so I have no idea what I did wrong .

Dnxracer

And it idled and drove time when I drove crv to my house

Wankenstein

CRV's ECU isn't an OBD1 (P75). Not saying that's the issue but it can't be ruled out either. Need fuel trims and o2 voltage..dude.

Dnxracer

I know it's not im using a 95 teg obd1 p75 with jumper harness