2kej6

alright timing is "fixed" until the gun comes through to get it perfect.transmission is fixed, now goes into gear (P) is no longer my (R) and so on. new radiator installed fixed the leak at the radiator tank. Here's what remains that prevents me (mostly mentally) from doing a road test (that and the tags expired in Jan)

1. I continue to get Vtec system failure (code 22) + Vtec system failure B1? (B1 as in Bank 1 - 02??) The solenoid works grounded to neg and taps to positive and it clicks (don't own a voltmeter yet)

2. I notice the head is drier then what it should normally be oil wise. Almost like very little pressure is getting to the head...when googling this I always come up on the debate of an oil orifice on either the block or one in between cylinders 2/3 on the head under the LMA...didn't want to rip the head off again unless absolutely necessary. I called parts guy at Honda and asked about the oil passage/pin/screw on the y7 block which he said "no - there is not" so now I'm wondering how and where the passages are to the solenoid itself...I can obviously see some of it when valve cover is off. When I take the vtec solenoid completely off the head little to no oil comes out. I mean nearly dry. What am I missing? beginning to think I received the wrong head or just being paranoid (p2j -1 with 00 stamp)

*looking into switching out y7 oil pan/ pickup for ex if there is a difference (someone mentioned this but haven't googled enough yet) plus oil pan gasket decides to seep out oil when its not even 6 months old and the oil level is still good and oil still clean

3. I am currently using p2p a 92 ECU for an auto EX 99-00..everything was wired correct/neatly. Had to source terminal pins from junk yard NO ONE carries them around here. in the write up I followed it mentions going from 3 wire on the IACV to 2. THEN a second write-up says automatics use 3 wire. And to leave it..that leaves me running knock, pressure switch, and vtec solenoid directly to ecu with my regular stock y7 harness..

4. Still missing an 02 sensor - does this cause vtec to not engage/ system failure? due to CEL?

Also noticed a SMALL coolant leak coming from ECT plug its actually coming through the plug itself - my fault - amazon special. What scares me is the small oil coming from the corner of the block/head on passenger side of engine so while valve cover was off I checked head bolts which were unusually loose..Torqued in order again to spec which slowed possibly stopped leaked..

those are my main issues with this mini me or "vtec conversion" whatever you want to call it..

Sorry for the rant...came this far and spent an unnecessary amount of money for something so simple in theory...but I've learned a lot haha.

If anyone reads this and wants pictures etc valve cover is off etc. off today so will be at it for a good minute.

2kej6

pictures

2kej6

bump. mic check 1-2

ezone

Have you done an oil pressure check?

If that is successful, how about an oil pressure check at the VTEC oil pressure switch (will require more adapters for a gauge, and manual operation of the solenoid with a jumper wire)

Is it possible to install the head gasket upside down and cover (block) the oil feed passage?

Edit: Did you ever try cranking it while the VTEC solenoid removed to see if oil reached the unit at all?

Got an air compressor?


Nope.

Um.....did you forget to extract all traces of liquid from the head bolt holes prior to installing the head and head bolts? Maybe that's why the head bolts seemed loose.... during torquing they bottomed out on liquid before clamping the head down on the gasket........but FYI you can hydraulically fracture the block by tightening the bolts on top of liquid.

2kej6

erm...welll back to the garage...great information btw that helps a lot actually.. one more thing..whats this thing about "oil orifice between cylinders 2 and 3 under the LMA? google has been giving me conflicting results on the mysterious hole that is plugged and needs to be removed?

ezone

Find a parts catalog (http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com) look up your own car whatever your engine block is, pick 'cylinder block-oil pan' and look in the diagram to see if yours has one.


For comparison, look up a....1999 Civic SI DOHC 'cylinder block....' and you should see the part in question on that diagram.

2kej6

aldo have to replace gasket on oil pan. this is what i found..normal?

ezone

Make sure you get all the tiny little washers removed from the studs or else your new pan gasket will leak like a sieve. I think I can see at least one stuck to a stud near the rear.

2kej6

Yeah I caught that one and I got them all organized with some washer bin storage type thing I literally just pulled out the last head bolt on at least two of the head bolts I noticed sucking air noise when I pull them out so I'm wondering if there was all in the passages down there also the oil pan is still on the ground cleaned out AutoZone gave me an ex gasket which is too skinny and my pan doesn't have the groove for it to fit in like the ex and their policy is no return if the box was opened so now debating on buying a new one or seeing if ex will in fact work with an LX pan? Still multiple things going on I figured out why my crank position sensor was throwing a code the wires are frayed right where it met behind the harmonic balancer that I finally got off solder it see if it works I will post pictures when I pull this head off in a few

ezone

That's the sound of oil trying to fill the hole as you pull the bolt out. NBD. You will need to suck liquid out of the holes again before assembly though.Ok how the F are you supposed to know it's wrong until you can see it right next to the original part? Counter help effed up, right?
Won't let you return it brand new...Elmers glue that box closed LOL......or make them lifetime warranty that ish.

The guy on our tool truck does warranty game with tools that are past the warranty period LOL....sell a brand new tool to replace the broken one, then 5 seconds later claim warranty on the new one so it's free replacement to me.

2kej6

haha im sure they would work me. if they know my name, car, year and let me rent the honda crank tool for free because "im always in the store" they will...issue tonight is a ride etv but no biggie...other things i can do while head is off.got a picture attached...looks like i have 1 damaged dowel..hondas got them for 6$ for both..or there is a home depiot within walking distance lol. before i get back to work i have to ask your opinion on this too....watched a video on a guy who made maybe 3 small holes in his oil pickup tube due to low pressure etc. has me intrigued but im done "experimenting with the car" haha

ezone

I see one dowel that looks a little chewed, where is the other one?

If you can make it round enough to fit each end in its holes and still pass the head bolt through it, then I'd use what's there.


What is this I can't even

2kej6

other dowel came out clean. im just wondering. if it looks like a "must replace" Last thing I want to do is pull the head again..

as for the video...*the mesh" not the tube" pretty sure i got mine nice and cleaned out as best as i could

ezone

Much like a keyway is used to keep parts aligned during assembly, the dowels are used to ensure the block/gasket/head are all correctly aligned during assembly.

They don't have to look good, but they have to be round enough to fit both ends in their respective holes so the head sits in exactly the right place. They could be cut in a zig zag like Charlie Browns shirt as long as they can do the job they need to do.




Bellhousing dowels sometimes become seized in place, I have mangled many during removal and managed to straighten them out enough to be usable again. A variety of sockets can help clean it up....

2kej6

And I'm back...long story short turns out my low oil was due to the -you guessed it - oil control valve om the block.. Im sorry inside the head...well me being a rushed removed thwo bolys you arent suppose tl remove...shortly thereafter i jave the assembly in my hand....right then and there pieced jt back sold ot same night for 130$...head IM header and TB....wtf...then few days later I'm at it again on a VERY tight budget...ebay either had damaged neads for 50$ or rebuilt nicely for 500?..somehow o foumd this guy reveived today and new bolts are stil "out for delivery".. So now need to finish up the head decide if new/aftermarket parts are going in since its wide open...NEVER liked balve tran..but this time around its slow and by the book...iys still not running tonight thougb...comp cam is expensive ha

If anyone hates in it ..hey i blindy shot an offer of 80 when he had it for 100 even. Free shipping...guy i know hooked it up with free inspection etc. And said besides quick wash it was good to go. its gonna suck building last bit up but maybe itll be worth it who knows.. sorry in adva cfor rocker arm lma and cam questions in advance. Sorry about spelling on cell phone

ezone

Damn hard to read all that, not sure I understood any of it LOL


Reuse your head bolts unless they are damaged.

2kej6

little update

alright so the head is on with new head bolts torqued the right way/sequence. cleaned the ishh out of it before putting it together this time IE vacuuming out bolt holes, area around cylinders etc.. went to the pick and pull and found a camshaft w cam gear for 45$..(thought about comp cams/crower etc. but the way my wallet is set up...) Id like to do the measurements with a micrometer before everything goes back together...went ahead and bought a header (one that fits and has an 02 port so hopefully no cel. In the pictures you might notice the "oil control orifice" to clarify I NEED to remove this when doing the y7/y8 mini me...I didn't last time and had 0 oil reaching vtec solenoid...so the last items ill be shopping for are rocker arm assembly and lost motion assembly. Cant decide on pick and pull due to $$ or swap out springs, valves? I am also replacing the seals on valve stem since I'm in that area anyways..thoughts? input?

ezone

Head came without journal caps? Waste of an otherwise good head.

2kej6

well going to pick n pull now to try n grab rocker arm assembly...they charge 26 I think...that and intake manifold...

2kej6

so i got around to snapping some pictures of this y8 head...to those who have built, serviced a bare head how does this look like for starting point? so far ive just cleaned it. i do see some scratches cant feel though...will replace seals...other than that should i bother? or buy a complete head..also professional machining or diy status?


https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_...UQ1MnNUU2RCVUE

ezone

Where are the cam journal caps?

They are "married" to the head during the machining process and should never leave the head.
Any replacements from any other head may not match exactly, which could lead to camshaft binding or locking, and/or lubrication problems.