SilverScyth

So... I decided to go against my doctors orders and made my way outside to spend atleast a couple minutes of QT with my 99. I wanted some pics to oogle until I can finally get to work on my build.

I will say that with each pic (over 120 lol), the potential for the car seemed to show more and more. There are a couple areas that I could use a second opinion. As I made my way through the engine bay I noticed a couple things. Check attatchments- will try to keep them in order (#will look like this).

First and foremost- my cylinder head has a LKQ plug (#1344)... so I have a reman'd head - no mention of this from previous owner(typical) or carfax. The plug has a bit of fluid around it and has given the area a light coat (#1348) (#1355) (#1356). Upon further investigation I revealed that engine serial is not the one my car was born with. SOO... "new engine, new cylinder head" maybe new internals? I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say the yellow Gates timing belt tag on the fender would be the best estimate of when this EJ got a heart transplant.

Next, I wanted to check the engine mounts- which look ready to be replaced. (#2350)

There is a weird "issue" in the trunk that needs addressed sooner rather than later. There is water collecting. Stagnant water + metal = bad.
(#2305)(#2307) (#2308) This lead me into a different train of thought when I was taking these pictures.... Why is the floor pan not the same color as the rest of the car?

Finally- on to the less than prime real-estate that could use some rust-eze.
(#2351) (#2363)

The rest of the body has spots of clear coat peeling but those less than prime areas are really the only areas of issue- not even surface or bubbles.

Feel free to comment like and or subscri...... ohh wait.. wrong platform...
You get the idea... Thanks for taking time to check out my post.

Wankenstein

And most likely due to overheat(s) issue. Hopefully previous owner fixed it properly. Looks like LKQ tapped the head and inserted that brass plug.

With e-brake engaged, engine running..have a helper put transmission into forward gear while simultaneously pressing the brake pedal and slowly applying gas pedal. You're job is to (standing on side of car, hood open) watch how far the engine lifts when load is applied. The engine will lift some and that is normal. Abnormal is excessive lift, vibration and tapping noise (severely failed mount(s). Also, perfrom the same test in reverse gear. Use plenty of space (empty parking lot) and caution (don't stand in front of car while observing mounts).

There are three motor mounts: driver side upper, passenger side upper (under air intake), rear lower (firewall near charcoal cannister) and two torque mounts: driver side lower near a/c condenser and passenger side lower near radiator. The two torque mounts are commonly and easily torn. Cheap and easy to replace but, debated whether they provide support for engine. Ezone told me they are there for safety reasons in case of accidents.

Rain water is most likely coming in through rusted or bent seems in rain channels located under the trunk lid: between trunk rubber seal and body.
This is another fairly common issue with older 6th gens. The factory seem sealer eventually breaks down or rust develops from underneath the rear glass or lmetal lip that the rubber trunk seal covers or the seems themselves and eventually creates holes for rain to get in.

My '98 EX has this issue: I replaced rubber trunk seal and re-applied seem sealer but, it still leaks. I narrowed it down to passenger side rust underneath the rear glass..yet to fix it though. Each case is different and the best way to find a leak is to have a helper use a garden hose to apply water all around rear glass, rear tail lights, and underneath trunk floor while you are inside closed trunk with a bright (LED) flashlight looking for sources of leaks.

Looks like a repair attempt of some sort? Maybe a colored silicone or hybrid silicone/latex sealant.

Obviously..that car has spent much time on ice/snow covered roads that use a lot of salt on them. If you don't care how that car looks use some "rust to black" product like Ospho and plan on having it painted. Ospho won't help through-rust..just surface.

SilverScyth

Thanks for the massive response Ferguson O_O

I should clarify- a family member had this vehicle but never used it. When I say "previous owner" I mean the person before my family member. I borrowed it for a trip- it was about 1200 miles, last year? It sat in a garage for give or take 5 months- Thats when I basically said- hey, I need a vehicle - you have a spare vehicle - can I buy it? and we know the rest lol. The car runs REALLY well minus the "shifting issue" ( not sure what it is just yet but I'm gonna try the motor mount thing as soon as the doc clears me).

Yes I have LOTS of time to think while I stare at the ceiling. I even got the Haynes and Chilton manuals for some reading material lol

I did get a referral from a friend for a bodyshop, I think he said they've been around for 15-20 years. Hopefully they can fit me in, in about 6 months when I can afford it. The only rusty parts are the lower firewall, the gas cap area, and the little square door in the pic. The rest is pretty solid. Will try to add a pic of door jams and maybe the side-

Thanks again for helpin with the post!

SilverScyth

A couple more pics - I'm sure someone will ask about the spots on the pavement, the only ones from my car are under the wheels. Its finally starting to dry out - been rainy almost all week- hence the water in the trunk lol
Which reminds me- I did pull back the carpeting to check the little flapper vents- no rust! I check using the small screwdriver method

Wankenstein

Since it's been sitting five months you should do an oil change as soon as possible if one hasn't been done recently. Also, throw a can of Berrymans B-12 Chemtool in the feul tank (per directons).

Automatic or manual transmission?
Symptoms of shifting issue?

ezone

LKQ is a auto dismantler/recycler (salvage yard), that's just a used engine they sold.

Those round things are heat tabs installed by the seller (LKQ), the middle of the button will melt away if the engine is overheated.....and then any warranty LKQ gave the purchaser would be void if the button has the center melted out.

And it's a leaker. Looks like all the usual high mileage oil leaks, and that heater hose under the distributor is wet with oil, that's a bad bad thing for the rubber. Fix leaks, replace hose. Oil leaks are usually all of the rubber gaskets needing replaced as they get old and brittle with heat and time. .
Not sure what you are seeing wrong.
Find the source. Could be rusting in the trough and seams below the rear glass where the trunklid seal is. Or leaking around the tail lights

*reads turds post* Yeah what he said.
Floor is red, car is red. Samey samey. It's not had the floor replaced or anything if that's what you are thinking. I'm sure you would find similar color elsewhere in areas not normally exposed like main floor under all the carpet..
Ya, you got some rust worms at work....I'm in the salt belt too, some cars might be starting to look like swiss cheese by 10 years old.

They were flimsy AF when brand new (and the rubber is usually shredded to nothing by the time it gets a timing belt done), the rubber can't support anything and there is certainly no weight applied to them.

My understanding is the two lower ears (mounts) are only intended to help guide the drivetrain downward and under the passenger compartment in the event of a front end collision.
Don't assume if you don't know for sure. A timing belt is not tough to replace, but if it is neglected and lets go it can wipe out the engine all over again (valve bender)

Judging by the oil leaks, I'll guess that used engine looks like it could be in the 100k-150k miles range.
What's the mileage showing on the odometer?

Phosphoric acid, also called Naval jelly. Probably cheaper without a brand name attached to it. See teh goggles for moar infos
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...ersion-225471/
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...emoval-210082/
Tyre is nearly bald? Can't see much tread...or maybe it's just the pic.

It's got a replacement engine.....can you tell if it has a replacement transmission?

SilverScyth

Until you mentioned it, I had never heard of Berryman's B-12. Just watched a couple vids on youtube about it. Seems pretty legit. I've used Sea-foam in the past, might give the chemtool a shot.

As for oil change- I already had that done. Full Synthetic. All fluids have been set to spec. Had a safety check and put through my states inspection w/ emissions. Started a folder and all receipts will be on hand (something I see less and less people doing).

Its an Auto, not entirely sold on putting in a standard- cars like the Koenigsegg/Ferrari/Bugatti- those cars earned that kinda greatness. JMO

The "shift issue" is what I would call something like a lull- if you will. It is often experienced when coming to a stop sign then proceeding. It's definitely most noticeable when the car is cold. It's not the kind of jerk you'd get from dumping the clutch- It's almost like the engine is catching up? I realize it's difficult to really put it into words. Side note- a family member used the car to go to the store, on returning they pointed out the same results. The second part to the mystery is more of the lull end, when it shifts from say 2nd to 3rd. Basing it on sound and feel, it somewhat goes to a higher rpm than what you'd expect from the AT. (no tach... YET.... lookin for an AT cluster swap in the future)

ezone

Trans issues, can you make a video of it --with good sound ? (because you don't have a tach we can see)

SilverScyth

First- HOLY MOTHER OF INFO!

2nd- im sorry, I don't know how to multi-quote. Clicked the button nothing happened. Clicked the button then quote- i got this version. Backed out, tried clicking button again then button to the right and yea... so... im sorry for the giant quote box above

The pics were just to show more of the area since the one is just a closeup of the LKQ tab. I thought it was trying to push out- the picture doesn't quite do justice. The silicon around it is slightly bulged but in the picture it looks flat.
Then again I could be overthinking the leaking gasket. I overthink ALOT.... and squirrel

I did a little diagramming with the trunk, see pic

tires. Yes, That is infact the cords you're seeing.... Been couped up too long. I almost forgot, they are the ONE thing I needed to actually get my sticker lol

You're right- I meant used engine. As for the AT, as long as they didn't tamper with the vin plate beside the engine serial- its the original.
Then there is the Odom reading just over 92k- again IF it hasn't been rolled back or swapped. The gates belt was installed in 14'. SO.... I'm thinking maybe belts, gaskets, and hose? I'll admit- thinkin on this path is getting me leaning more towards finding a full swap haha

ezone

Mat is a tar like sound deadener, I'm pretty sure you can find more of it in the floor of the passenger compartment under the carpets.

Round thing with sealer on it---did you try pushing on it, is it steel or is it rubber or plastic with dirt caked in it? If it is rubber or plastic it could be pushed out to drain water if need be....Not sure and I don't have any similar car to look at.

But the other round black puck near it looks like it's probably a body plug for the car as I remember it.



Color differences....no big deal IMO, it doesn't look like anyone welded in half of a trunk floor as a patch job. Anything in the last 18 years could have discolored (or colored) the paint....and that paint in the trunk was never as nice as the outside of the car.

I don't think anyone would try to swap a VIN tag from an original engine or transmission to a used unit either. Most would either tear up the metal tag doing so or the fasteners would show obvious signs of tampering.

SilverScyth

The sealer one is like "RTV" or like a paste that was smeared. The circle with rust is like a cap. I did a "screwdriver" test. Barely tapping on it almost went through. The color difference is no big deal, its covered by the cardboard sheet (albeit alittle deformed) and the carpet. I just thought it was really odd lol

What I put about the VIN, was more of a CMA incase someone popped the question- it would be answered before asked- thats all

Thanks again for all this info btw!

Guess I should break out some google-fu to figure out how deep my pockets are gonna need to be to repair/replace current set up vs doing a swap.

ezone

It's a body plug and the smeared stuff is a body seam sealer to make it 'permanent' and leak proof, it's not exactly the same as RTV, it's used in body panels and seams.

Now that I'm awake enough to goggle surch it:
(strangely enough, from a thread about water leaking <--link)

Wankenstein

For the A/T transmission do a 3x3 drain and fill (google it) and use either Honda brand ATF, Valvoline Maxlife full synthetic or Castrol Multi-Vehicle Import .. in correct weight. Can also add a bottle of LubeGard Red if you want.

These transmission are know to be hard shifting somewhat. What model is you car: LX, DX or EX?

SilverScyth

1999 EJ6 DX AT FWD


I know thats way more than you asked, but it covers most other things that might come up

Wankenstein

Actually, this is the type of info every post should lead in with. Including current mileage and length of ownership helps too. Anyway, as I stated previously... if you don't know what mileage (or if) the last ATF drain and fill was peformed it's good maintenence and in this case may help your's transmission's shifting issue. Can test and clean (screen) the transmission's shift solenoids too if you want: http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/hon...lenoid-tests-1

Only do a drain and fill. Do not have it "flushed" (machine) as it can possibly loosen deposits and cause valve bodies to become obstructed which leads to further or no-shift..shifting issues.

SilverScyth

Well... Today I finally got out and took the lil red machine for a spin. Got new tires that I really wasn't expecting to get. Long story. Infact. Long day. The good news is that I got an instrument cluster with a tach that is auto, and the bezel around it. Even got new visors. Along with 4 tires. Went to get them installed, and after being told they wont fit and that my current tires were not road legal (cords were showing)... I ended up with 4 new tires and 4 tires I can't use

Then... incase you're wondering why I quoted this reply... while at walmart I picked up a can of Chemtool. Read the directions. Put it in the tank, filled up the tank like it said.... AANNDDD.... now my car sounds like it has a MASSIVE exhaust leak and the weird shift thing is A LOT more pronounced- especially when the car makes this new flutter on acceleration. I made it less than 5 miles from the gas station when this started. All the miles I have put on it- not once did it sound like it does now. Once it gets around 35-40ish the loud sound coming from the engine bay seems to come and go. In the drive way- hood open - I tried the TB a couple times and it sounds like I have a B18C built for the track. I don't know what the Chemtool did but... I'm real skeptical and afraid to see how much what ever is wrong now is gonna cost me or how much time I'm gonna be spinnin' a wrench

ezone

Gotta give it a lot of gas pedal to go anywhere now?

Jack it up and crawl under, figure out why it is noisy. If you have to get someone else to work the gas pedal to make the noise while you are underneath checking, do it.

SilverScyth

Update on the issue.

Had it put on a lift, we found the issue pretty fast-

There was a flex pipe installed in what looked like a bad section of exhaust pipe.
The flex pipe sheered off where it overlapped the solid exhaust pipe.

I usually expect the worst case scenarios.

Looking into replacing that old n nasty exhaust system
with a header and and a Apexi Noir exhaust. I can't stand the stupid fart can mufflers.

ezone

Make sure whatever you fix it with has a flexible joint in roughly the same location as the original. (probably below the steering rack or firewall?)
Engine rocking motions will cause solid exhaust pipes to break if you don't give it a place to move easily.

The connection between those two pipes originally had a spring loaded flexible joint similar to this






it probably rotted out and was replaced with a universal flex joint like this






When I needed exhaust work on my truck I took it to a local exhaust shop. I got a quiet muffler, custom bent pipes that would clear between the rear axle and bed floor (at full axle travel) and he fabbed up dual 3" chrome tips. Eventually it will need a flex joint welded in near the front of the system too.