eager2learn

Hi,

I have a 99 Civic LX with a d16y7 engine.

I plan on swapping in another used d16y7 engine.

I decided that since I am going to be swapping engines, I might as well replace every other critical engine component save taking the engine apart.

Here is my list so far:

1. Spark Plugs, Plug Wires, Distributor, Cap & Rotor
2. Timing Belt, T. Belt Tensioner, A/C Belt, Alternator Belt, Power Steering Belt
3. Water Pump
4. Valve Cover Gasket, Spark Plug Grommets, Valve Cover Bolt Grommets
5. Cam Seal/Plugs, Crank Seal
6. Mounts
7. O2 Sensors
8. Honda OEM Tran/Brake/Radiator Fluids
9. 5w30 Synthetic Oil
10. High Performance Radiator or OEM Radiator depending on my budget
11. Thermostat + Fan Switch
12. Water Pump
13. Fuel Injectors/Filter
14. Cooling system hoses + Connections
15. Fuel Lines + Connections
16. Intake/Exhaust Manifold Gaskets
17. Oil Pump Gasket

Tools:
1. Fastener Torque Wrench
2. Timing Light

I already have a 240 PC mechanics tool set along with a 10" 3/4 drive extension, spark plug socket, and a deep 15/16 socket.

Is there anything else that I am missing?

Also, I did brief research on synthetic oil and apparent type iv PAO is the highest quality synthetic oil. I read forum posts that Castro had a made in germany brand synthetic oil that is high quality PAO blend and that it is sold at AutoZone. Now these are all old posts but I decided to check for myself and I guess they don't sell it anymore.

My question is: is Honda OEM 5w30 synthetic oil type iv PAO oil? If not, is there a brand of oil that I am not aware of that is type iv?

Thank you!

GolNat

iTrader: (7)

Moved

ezone

Man, I was typing along and BAM! I can't post WTF? Who moved my cheese!?!?


OEM head gasket, ring set, bearing set
Damn, may as well just do all this to your original engine instead of another used engine...you already have a used engine LOL

Stock style radiator should be plenty sufficient for a stock engine.
crank pulley tool --DangerZone rental?

I would not use a Euro spec oil in anything but a European car that calls for it.

I'd run 5w20 in it, but that's me.
Kendall GT1 Ultimate Synthetic is very very close to the oil blend package we use.
Pennzoil Platinum Plus also meets necessary specs, and you can get Mobil1 just about anywhere.
For sake of simplicity: Just about any that carries the "Dexos 1" certification logo on the label is good.
Dexos 1.
Not Dexos 2, that's a Euro type spec.



Injectors and fuel lines? Seems a bit much to me, but whatevs.

JMO, YMMV

eager2learn

Whoah, thanks for the insider trade secrets!

Yeah, I guess you are right, my list is a bit overkill. I'll leave my fuel lines alone, but I will inspect the fuel injectors and maybe just replace my upper & lower radiator hoses.

True, but I am not yet experienced enough to take my engine apart and do a HG repair so I'm going to have to get a used engine since my current one is fairly damaged and has HG sealant holding it up and it is currently the more budget-friendly option. I may do it in the future, though.

Thanks for the warning, lol.

ezone

Heater hoses and all the small hoses!
The heater hose that pops open on everyone is the hose on the end of the head under the distributor, it gets soaked in oil from the leaking distributor and valve cover, then swells up like a balloon, then pops and ruins engines real quick from overheating.

I was thinking that any used engine has a real good chance of being an oil consumer with stuck rings.

Stock 99

Just my 2 cents...

I've owned a 99 Civic with a y7 for almost 7 years now.. bought it at 10 years old with 100k miles on it and have put another 45k miles on it since. All just regular maintenance. I did replace the rotor, cap, spark plug wires, valve cover gaskets (complete set) at 10 years. I would suggest that everything I highlighted in red be more of an inspect and test situation before you replace. All that stuff can be done easily after the engine is installed and really it's just money out of pocket if it doesn't need replacing. Money that might go to better use if say it ends up being an oil burner or needs a head gasket replacement.

The oil question always seem to surface here so here's my experience on the y7. I drive enough that my oil needs to be changed about every 6 months. The engine was built to spec for conventional 5w30 oil. I change it religiously at 3700 miles and it still doesn't burn or leak any oil at 17 years old and 145k miles. I have a friend who drives 2x as much as I do so his oil would need to be changed every 3 months with conventional oil... in that case it would make sense to go to synthetic to extend the period between oil changes and probably save a little money in the long run because of that... otherwise I wouldn't bother.

As far as timing light goes... unless the distributor was moved it shouldn't need timing... I noticed in another thread you have an OBD scan tool and you should be able to get ingition timing through that.