96 civic issue, turned on but... help will be highly apreciated! Warning HD Pics
#1
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Rep Power: 0 96 civic issue, turned on but... help will be highly apreciated! Warning HD Pics
I recently got a 96 civic which I was going to keep for myself, but I decided to get it running before X Mas since ill end up giving the car as a gift to my little brother, so help will be HIGHLY appreciated
So, I got the car about 3 weeks ago, gave 2 old laptops for it, since the guy who had it, told me he had replaced the engine with a D16Y7 instead of the original D16Y8, original engine died, as well as the cylinder head, which he acquired from a different location and block from another.
CAR:
1996 Honda Civic EX
Automatic Transmission
D16Y7 engine, D16Y8 head (mini me swap)
The guy who had it accepted the trade since he couldn't get the car to run right, I turned it on and it sounded terrible there was an engine knock and told me that the engine didn't have power, and suggested that the head needed replacement since the engine block was fine. When I heard the engine it sounded similar to a rod knock but I still decided to take it home.
Got home and started taking the engine apart, drained the oil, ready to find metal shavings, nothing... removed the oil pan, nothing again, a good sing, even though a small copper piece was found in the oil pan after a really good look.
Bad distributor connector....
Checked the block on the inside and well everything seems good, compared to other engines Ive seen.
Finally I got to the bearings, I tried moving the rods with my hand, was positive one of them was bad, nothing... removed the rod ends.. nothing all bearings were in excellent condition...?
I moved on to the main bearings after I removed the engine, again most of them were in like new condition, except for two... which were worn out to the copper (that's were the copper piece came from) not to mention they were smaller... obviously 2 bad and wrong size bearings..
At the end ended up buying new main and rod bearings to be safe and ended up rebuilding the engine, and YES my Y7 has a knock sensor So I should be fine there
Now I got a few questions, I kinda rebuilt the engine in a hurry and now the engine and tranny are siting in the car as we speak
1. The car has an automatic transmission, the pressure plate is round with two sides kinda cut off, does the plate need to go in a specific way? Used a guide tool wile installing the pressure plate but turned out useless since the plate has an indent for the crankshaft)
2. The flyweel and torque converter are welded together, now I noticed that the flyweel had markings on it, the markings were put there by someone else which points to 5 small circle holes, again does the flyweel go in a specific way?
3. Whats the OEM clearance when when using plastigage for the rods and main bearings?, and whats the correct plastigage to use... green?
4. What the correct way to install the D16Y7 pistons rings? this is the way I did it:
5. Lastly probably the most important question... what could be causing the knocking on the engine.... head? well atm im checking the current head I have checked the stamps on it and it appears to be an EX vtec head, except for one thing... it has a different cam gear according to some...
Soo... I went out and got my self what appears to be the correct one..
So yeah any thoughts on what the knocking could of been... the 2 bad main bearings.. or the wrong cam gear or just the hole head? or something else I should check? help will be highly appreciated, and sorry for the noob questions last time I worked on an engine was when I was in high school, and well its been a few years now.
So, I got the car about 3 weeks ago, gave 2 old laptops for it, since the guy who had it, told me he had replaced the engine with a D16Y7 instead of the original D16Y8, original engine died, as well as the cylinder head, which he acquired from a different location and block from another.
CAR:
1996 Honda Civic EX
Automatic Transmission
D16Y7 engine, D16Y8 head (mini me swap)
The guy who had it accepted the trade since he couldn't get the car to run right, I turned it on and it sounded terrible there was an engine knock and told me that the engine didn't have power, and suggested that the head needed replacement since the engine block was fine. When I heard the engine it sounded similar to a rod knock but I still decided to take it home.
Got home and started taking the engine apart, drained the oil, ready to find metal shavings, nothing... removed the oil pan, nothing again, a good sing, even though a small copper piece was found in the oil pan after a really good look.
Bad distributor connector....
Checked the block on the inside and well everything seems good, compared to other engines Ive seen.
Finally I got to the bearings, I tried moving the rods with my hand, was positive one of them was bad, nothing... removed the rod ends.. nothing all bearings were in excellent condition...?
I moved on to the main bearings after I removed the engine, again most of them were in like new condition, except for two... which were worn out to the copper (that's were the copper piece came from) not to mention they were smaller... obviously 2 bad and wrong size bearings..
At the end ended up buying new main and rod bearings to be safe and ended up rebuilding the engine, and YES my Y7 has a knock sensor So I should be fine there
Now I got a few questions, I kinda rebuilt the engine in a hurry and now the engine and tranny are siting in the car as we speak
1. The car has an automatic transmission, the pressure plate is round with two sides kinda cut off, does the plate need to go in a specific way? Used a guide tool wile installing the pressure plate but turned out useless since the plate has an indent for the crankshaft)
2. The flyweel and torque converter are welded together, now I noticed that the flyweel had markings on it, the markings were put there by someone else which points to 5 small circle holes, again does the flyweel go in a specific way?
3. Whats the OEM clearance when when using plastigage for the rods and main bearings?, and whats the correct plastigage to use... green?
4. What the correct way to install the D16Y7 pistons rings? this is the way I did it:
5. Lastly probably the most important question... what could be causing the knocking on the engine.... head? well atm im checking the current head I have checked the stamps on it and it appears to be an EX vtec head, except for one thing... it has a different cam gear according to some...
Soo... I went out and got my self what appears to be the correct one..
So yeah any thoughts on what the knocking could of been... the 2 bad main bearings.. or the wrong cam gear or just the hole head? or something else I should check? help will be highly appreciated, and sorry for the noob questions last time I worked on an engine was when I was in high school, and well its been a few years now.
#2
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: 96 civic issue, turned on but... help will be highly apreciated! Warning HD Pics
and YES my Y7 has a knock sensor So I should be fine there
1. The car has an automatic transmission, the pressure plate is round with two sides kinda cut off, does the plate need to go in a specific way? Used a guide tool wile installing the pressure plate but turned out useless since the plate has an indent for the crankshaft)
Back up Slim, you drank too much Kool-aid.
Post pics of this?
2. The flyweel and torque converter are welded together, now I noticed that the flyweel had markings on it, the markings were put there by someone else which points to 5 small circle holes, again does the flyweel go in a specific way?
3. Whats the OEM clearance when when using plastigage for the rods and main bearings?, and whats the correct plastigage to use... green?
Choose your plastigauge according to the size range (specs) you are trying to measure.
4. What the correct way to install the D16Y7 pistons rings? this is the way I did it:
5. Lastly probably the most important question... what could be causing the knocking on the engine.... head?
Those engines did tend to develop main bearing knock at high miles (evidenced by your main bearing wear conditions?), but never heard anybody describe that as 'terrible', and they usually had to be all warmed up before that noise became obvious.
A rod knock should have been easy to find.
Piston knock....? Any unusual wear patterns on the skirts? (bent rod)
Measure skirt-to-wall clearances before reinstalling?
Some slap is normal until the pistons got heated up....
Carbon knock?
it has a different cam gear according to some...
The 5 spoke pulley should be for a 6th gen,
the pulley with holes and 3 lines looks to me like it's from a 5th gen (D15B7, B8, Z1, and D16Z6).
#3
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: 96 civic issue, turned on but... help will be highly apreciated! Warning HD Pics
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