EdGasket

I need to replace the outer CV joint on the rh side (short shaft). According to Haynes the CV joint can't be seperated from the shaft?? Is that right? When I've done them before on other cars, you just knock the joint off and the new one on. I'm sure I've seen just the joints for sale so they must come off. Please can someone confirm whether it is possible to replace the joint or whether I have to buy a complete driveshaft?

Also any tips as to the best way to extract the driveshaft; i.e. where to split the hub/suspension in order to extract the shaft.

mcnoople

What is the year, make, model of the car in question? Different years are removed in different ways.

ezone

I'd think you can find a whole axle for about 45.99 at the cheap parts store.

EdGasket

The car is a year 2000 1.4s SOHC with the sloping hatchback.

I am in the UK and it is common here to just replace the joint, if possible, because the complete driveshaft is £££'s. They certainly sell the outer CV only e.g. COMLINE CHN45019E, so I presume Haynes are wrong about it not being changeable; there's even a video on YouTube of a guy just knocking the joint off just like I would do; it's only held on with a ring-clip.

I see on YouTube that it is recommended undoing the wishbone (lower suspension arm) from the chassis rather than split the lower balljoint; would you agree with that method? Another method is to leave the wishbone in but take out the fork completely and after loosening the brake hose from the strut, wiggle out the outer joint.

ezone

Well that sure changes things LOL just ignore my previous reply.

I prefer to separate suspension at the ball joint, that way we don't have to do a wheel alignment.


I guess to find out if the joint will come off the axle.....I'd say to remove the axle shaft, remove the boot covering the CV joint in question.
Then chuck the axle shaft in a vise and inspect carefully for any visible signs of a snap ring to work with.

If there are no visible ends of a snap ring at the base of the joint, then the snap ring must be internal and you would need to beat the joint off the end of the axle.

Mark the splines before you try to beat the joint out, so you can tell when you get the new joint all the way on. If you don't get it driven all the way on the splines and the snap ring fully seated and locked, you risk having the shaft and joint separate while driving and that is dangerous.

EdGasket

hmm looking on YouTube, even if splitting the balljoint, you still need to remove the fork to get the driveshaft out. I've never had any luck just hitting the joint with a hammer and in the past they have been a right pain e.g. ripped boots or mangled threads when using a balljoint splitter. I'll have a go at splitting the balljoint but if it doesn't come apart easily I think I'll go with undoing the wishbone instead.

I checked with Honda and they said they list an outer CV joint but don't supply it anymore?? Great support eh! Well Honda would have been too expensive anyway so good job the aftermarket hasn't abandoned my model. Got the Comline CV joint on order for £24 (the complete axle was £66 but only for a cheapo one).

EdGasket

HELP!
So the old CV joint knocked off alright. I noticed there is a slot in the shaft for a clip but no clip in it and yet when I put the old CV joint back on; it required knocking off again so there must be something else internal to the CV joint gripping on that slot. Can anyone confirm if this is how Honda make them?
Unfortunatley the new joint didn't fit; shaft too big to go in hole. Went to motor factors and tried their 32 internal spline CV joint made by Shaftek and that didn't fit either; still slightly too small diameter for the shaft to fit. I noticed it had been returned so other people must be having this problem. What is going on? They are the original Honda driveshafts on the car. WHen a motor factor sells CV joints, are they only selling them for a particular brand of aftermarket shaft??