Key immobilizer replacement
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I have a wrecked 2001 Civic Ex 2dr with a good motor and a 2001 Civic Ex 4dr with a blown engine. I am swapping the engine from the 2dr to the 4dr and do not have the keys to the 4dr. I do have one key from the wrecked 2dr, so swapped out the ignition unit from the 2dr to the 4dr. Of course having the issue with the transponder and key not matching, so switched the transponder to match the key, but assuming now the issue is with the ECU and the mismatch of the key... So guess my question is now I do need to get the new Key/Transponder programmed to the ECU? Not sure I would want to swap the ECU units out as well because of the other programming done for this particular car? So in summary... the key matches the ignition and transponder, but not the ECU.
#2
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Re: Key immobilizer replacement
ECM and key/ignition lock/immobilizer ring are matched sets and all need to come from the same car.
Swap the ECM
Both cars you say are EX, so as long as the transmissions were the same, the ECM (or PCM) should be swappable.
Swap the ECM
Both cars you say are EX, so as long as the transmissions were the same, the ECM (or PCM) should be swappable.
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Thanks ezone... I was thinking of doing that but wasn't for sure if there were any other vehicle specific programming involved for the cars... Will update eventually with my results... thanks again
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Will remove each and check tomorrow... let you know... thanks
Another question I am researching, is should I replace the engine only from the top or the whole front assembly (transmission, axles, wheels etc...) from the bottom... Just thinking the front end of the 2-door is a little smaller than the 4-door... I think just the engine is going to be my best bet :-)
Thanks again
Another question I am researching, is should I replace the engine only from the top or the whole front assembly (transmission, axles, wheels etc...) from the bottom... Just thinking the front end of the 2-door is a little smaller than the 4-door... I think just the engine is going to be my best bet :-)
Thanks again
#8
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Key immobilizer replacement
Can probably pull engine out the top by itself, I think you have to remove the crank pulley for clearance.
Unbolt compressor and move to the side so that rigid line (low side) is far enough over that the engine can come up past it. That way you don't have to discharge or mess with the freon.
Trans.....all are suspect to fail LOL, if both are original and both are already removed from the cars, I'd pick the one with lower mileage....but keep the other as a spare because it may need it sooner or later.
Personally, I prefer to drop the entire drivetrain out the bottom whenever possible, but I'm in a shop.
Unbolt compressor and move to the side so that rigid line (low side) is far enough over that the engine can come up past it. That way you don't have to discharge or mess with the freon.
Trans.....all are suspect to fail LOL, if both are original and both are already removed from the cars, I'd pick the one with lower mileage....but keep the other as a spare because it may need it sooner or later.
Personally, I prefer to drop the entire drivetrain out the bottom whenever possible, but I'm in a shop.
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thanks ezone... I was able to remove the ECU from the wrecked car and plug it into the good car... after making sure I had the right immobilizer attached, was able to insert the key and turn on without the Flashing Green Key displaying, so think that future issue is resolved. Getting the ECU is quite a chore... and not sure how easy it's going to be to swap out the one from the "good" car without dorking something up. It looks like the proper way is going to be dropping down the heater blower motor assembly from under the glovebox.. we will see once I get to that point :-) Now on to swapping the engines.. Will keep you update.... thanks again
#10
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Key immobilizer replacement
It's a lot simpler than that. The plastic brace that you can see after you flop the glovebox wide open, it has a cut line on each end (or just cut it wherever you want/need it cut, the glovebox door will hide it).
Cut that plastic strip out, unbolt the metal bracket that holds up the relays, that gives plenty of room to get the PCM out.
Random goggled images:
Cut that plastic strip out, unbolt the metal bracket that holds up the relays, that gives plenty of room to get the PCM out.
Random goggled images:
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Update: Working on pulling both engines from the cars, but did decide to drain the oil from the bad motor and a gallon of water/antifreeze came out, so assuming bad head/gasket was the culprit for this one... Thanks
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Hello EZONE
I know it has been a very long time, but finally made some progress on the Honda engine swap... tonight was the night... it fired right up and running smooth. I did however put it in gear while on jack stands just to check, and it would not go into gear... Getting the Flashing "D" and P1753 code. Only thing that was done with the transmission was drain and refill. Would the changing of ECMs have anything to do with it? I will replace the solenoid tomorrow I guess to see if it solves the issue...
Anyway, just wanted to provide update and check on the tranny situation...
Thanks,
RQ
I know it has been a very long time, but finally made some progress on the Honda engine swap... tonight was the night... it fired right up and running smooth. I did however put it in gear while on jack stands just to check, and it would not go into gear... Getting the Flashing "D" and P1753 code. Only thing that was done with the transmission was drain and refill. Would the changing of ECMs have anything to do with it? I will replace the solenoid tomorrow I guess to see if it solves the issue...
Anyway, just wanted to provide update and check on the tranny situation...
Thanks,
RQ
#14
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Key immobilizer replacement
Getting the Flashing "D" and P1753 code.
Seems like it's pretty easy to break the solenoid when doing major work......or it could just be unplugged. Check it out.
and it would not go into gear.
Did you get the axles fully seated in the trans?
Was this trans known to be good before you started working on it?
Swap back to the other PCM/immobi/key set just as a test? (just connect the wiring, don't bolt anything on yet)
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Well nevermind on the P1753.... It helps when it's plugged in :-) Must have missed that one when replacing the wiring harness. So at this point all is good and going for a test drive tomorrow... thanks again
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