Boppoli

So I just picked this little gem up for 200 bucks.
yes, 200 bucks.
needless to say, she's running all kinds of funky. After pulling codes, I got a Multiple misfires, vtec solenoid or switch, and a misfire code for cylinder 1, 2, and 3.
Price making more sense now?
so I ventured forth unto oreillys and purchased all 4 coil packs, 4 plugs, and a vtec solenoid(switch is integrated I'm I right? correct me if I'm wrong please.)
after installing the coilpacks, i cranks her up, ninety percent improvement. Unfortunately it's also Idling at 1500, and I can feel a rhythmic hiccup. Steady and constant. If I can spell how it sounds idling, it would be: purrrrrrwmpuuuurwm. Like, it sounds good, it's just got that wm part like like its getting a millisecond of more oomph.
Now if I rev it, she sounds freaking fantastic, like velvet on my eardrums. I'm stumped, where's this little surge, this little hiccup coming from
I get to poking around further, I notice that i have a small oil leak. Nothing massive, but spotting the concrete. Appears to be the bastard rear main. I understand that I'm gonna have to pull the tranny and fix this for sure before I dump, but I'm wondering if these could be related.

I know that one of you guys and gals knows a good direction for me to prod in better than I with these symptoms. I'm stumped, but I figure the car is definitely worth it. Lay it on me guys, I'd appreciate any help.

Wankenstein

Any CEL codes after installing new ignition parts?
Did you do an ECU reset (idle relearn)?
Aftermarket Vtec solenoid?

Remove and clean throttle body, IACV + gasket screen. Any vacuum leaks?


Is the oil leak directly under the location where engine and transmission mate? Any sign of Vtec leaking oil after install? Oil pan gasket is very near rear main

ezone

The VTEC dumped some oil when you took it off the head, that may be what you saw on the ground.
The cam plug in the back of the head leaks too.

Clean off the mess and start fresh and dry.

Did you erase codes after replacing the parts, and what new codes have set?

Is the oil full? Low oil is probably the most common cause of VTEC code.

Boppoli

Wow that's alot of replies thank you guys so much. I have been in lovely Florida for Christmas wohoo it was so nice!

So I followed everyone's leads, and the one that got me in the right direction is idle reset.
BTW, yes I did clear the codes after fixing the issues.

So as I'm holding at 3k rpm, my check engine light flashes five times, then off. Then waits a bit... and 5 times, off. I figured this wasnt good news and shut her down for a few minutes. When I crank up, I have a steady check engine light now, which turns out to be a Cylinder 1 Misfire.
Sure as hell, unplugged the coil pack, no difference. So I check to see if it's throwing a spark. Hell yeah it's throwing a half inch spark from the coil! But the plug still looks absolutely brand new, and almost dry save a very thin oil residue, whereas the other plugs I installed along with it were beginning to blue. Seems as if the plug isn't firing inside the cylinder.
And my idle is seeming to stay at 1500
Summary, cylinder 1's coil pack works, plug seems to not be firing much if any, can unplug coil and absolutely no difference in idle, which is high.

Thank you all so much, and Murray Cripmus!

Wankenstein

Try the cylinder drop test again but this time instead of pulling the coil off, disconnect cylinder 1 fuel injection harness.
Do a dry and wet (one teaspoon of oil) compression test of at least cylinder 1..better to do all four.

Also, did you check that the plugs were gapped correctly?
If you did gap them and if they are Iridium plugs..did you use a coin style or wire gapper? Coin style gappers can break the tips off of Iridium plugs if not gapped carefully.

ezone

Swap #1 plug with one from another cylinder that works, see if #1 is still dead cylinder after the switcharound


fuel injector test?
Compression test?
Valve adjust?


Plug in pic is plain ordinary plug. Can't tell what brand though.
Also kinda looks like the gasket might not be squashed (wasn't installed tight enough?) but hard to tell from the angle of the pic.

Boppoli

[QUOTE=ezone;4736455]Swap #1 plug with one from another cylinder that works, see if #1 is still dead cylinder after the switcharound


fuel injector test? I found a fuel injector set for forty bucks, so at 220k, I ordered them just for tlc purposes. I noticed the plug had no odor to it like it's getting no gas, so I seceded to go ahead and do the injectors.
Compression test? Redneck style, I put my finger in the hole and it popped it right put. Seems good, grabbed a tester at work to haul home with me and see. I love working in a garage.
Valve adjust? The valves are, at this moment, nice and quiet, this will be the last to try but thank you I didn't even consider that! Learn something every day!

Wankenstein

Sounds like you purchased a NOID light. I've never used one..I know they test/confirm an injector is firing and pulse rate but I'm not sure if it confirms fuel pressure/amount injected?
An easy and cheap way to determine fuel injection firing is to use an auto stethoscope or piece of pvc pipe against each fuel injector. Easy to hear ticking/pulse.

Replacing injector(s) or sending them off for testing and ultrasonic cleaning?

When you do the proper compression test:
1) Put a charger on the battery prior and during test to ensure optimal cranking. Weak cranking can effect results.
2) Press gas pedal all the way down to shut off injectors during cranking
3) (Ezone style) Have someone crank the engine while you watch the compression gauge..note compression gauge fluctation as well as the highest reading. Crank a few times past the highest reading to ensure optimal reading.
4) Cylinders should be with 10-20% of each other. Any cylinder with a low reading do a wet (one teaspoon of engine oil) test. Do all four cylinders if you want.

If you purchased a Harbor Freight compression tester..use two channel locks or vice grips to tighten the correct spark plug hole thread attachement as tight as possible (without bending). Also use a bit of oil on the acttachement threads so the attachemnt doesn't get stuck in the cylinder head. I learned the hard way..fortunately, I used two long handle screw-drivers to reverse chopstick the attachment out.

I forget what the service manual states for valves inspection..I usually inspect every 30k miles (two years). If you don't know when the last one was performed it would be good to inspect them soon.

Here's a good video on compression testing. Disregard what he says about 5 to 6 cranks as it could take more and as mentioned..go two or three cranks past highest reading:

ezone

Yeap, that's redneck AF.

ALL YALLS GOTSTA WATCH DIS


Bubba's Garage - AVI OnDemand


Loose valves are good. They might make noise, but that's about it.
Tight valves don't make noise. Tight valves cause codes. Tight valves cause compression to drop. Tight valves burn.

It's just a stupid simple 12v test light that is in a housing specifically made to fit injector (and various other component) connectors. It can only help confirm an electrical pulse.