gts

I'm considering picking up a used 2003 EX.
Has about the same miles (135k) as my current EX.

Owner states that within the past 15k miles various things were done. Claims all the items are new (versus finding a replacement part at a junk yard) which based on the items makes sense.
Some are what I'd consider normal maintenance (ie: the timing belt water pump). But others I'm not so sure about.

Should any of the things that were fixed and/ or replaced raise a red flag or be of concern?
I'm wondering if any of these 'fixes' might indicate something deeper is on it's way out or was the cause for the replacement.
(mostly wondering about the cat and the radiator)

-Timing belt and water pump
-Catalytic converter
-Front and rear suspension links
-Radiator
-Front brakes and rotors
-Fuel door release cable
-Engine ground strap
-Rear brake line

Colin42

Might want to dig a little deeper into why the rad was replaced, if the engine overheated it might have compromised the headgasket.

Same with the rear brakeline, there's two of them, why was only one replaced? Were the flex lines done at the same time? How are the front brakelines?

See if the check engine light, or any other lights are on in the dash. take it for a test drive. If you have a scanner bring it so you can scan the car and make sure there aren't any hidden codes. Bring someone who's either a mechanic or very knowledgeable about cars to help you look over the car

gts

Thanks I'll ask about the rad and the rear brake line.
They say no check engine light.
I have a scanner and will bring it/ scan for any codes.

On my EX I've done a valve adjustment, took off IM and cleaned the EGR passages, and recently took off the head due to a couple of burnt valves. Then the car got totaled in my driveway (wind storm blew stuff around causing lots of cosmetic damage).
In other words I'm no expert but can find my way through repairs etc with help and the service manual.

Slumpertcivic

Yea, nothing can bring out dishonestly like selling a car, always be wary.

I have known people that sold off their car simply because they couldn’t justify the cost of a new set of tires for it..

Something was the trigger, on a $2,000 car that he possibly has spent almost that in last year in repairs, something changed to make him want to get rid of it now.

ezone

Cat and rad, both might be unusual for the mileage, but certainly not unheard of. Radiator might have been corroded, just like the brake line may have been rusted....and why wasn't the other side or more lines in need....wait, maybe they are in need and the estimate for the rest scared them out of the car. Slide under it and see?


All cars are for sale for a reason. You have to discover why.
All cars are someone elese problem.....until you buy it and make them your own problems.
Sellers all lie. If it was such a great car they would still be driving it. LOL


How bad is the body rusted?

Head gasket! Another reason to scare someone out of the car.

Um, on the reading codes Codes that take a while to set won't necessarily be shown on a code read......SO....flip the key on but don't start the engine....Sit there and stare at the CEL. After about 30-40 seconds it should stay off. If it flashes about 5 times, then the IM readiness monitors haven't completed and that's an indication the code memory was recently erased (or battery went dead) and it hasn't run all of its self tests yet.



PRE-purchase inspection! Plan on it needing everything your car has needed and maybe more LOL

Crapshoot as usual

gts

Saw the car. Owner said the rad picked up a nut off the road which embedded itself in the rad creating a hole/ slow leak so the rad was replaced.

The brake line was replace because it rusted out.

The cat rusted out which is why it was replaced.

The owners seemed to be pretty decent people.
They said the next pipe down the line ("Pipe B" in online Honda parts catalog) has one of the mounting holes on the flange rusted out so it's now sort of a "U" versus it being a hole.
Not sure how this affects its connection to the flange on the cat.

The body is in very good shape, I didn't find any rust.
Pretty amazing for a car in New England (winter road salt and all...)

I did a short test drive (2-3 miles). The brakes seemed a little mushy, meaning I had to push the pedal down a bit farther as compared to my EX.
Perhaps the brake lines need to be bled?

Ezone I didn't see your post before checking it out but will be looking at it again today.
When I do I'll flip the key to on, wait 30-40 seconds and see what happens.

How long does it take for the IM readiness monitors to complete their process/ run all of its self tests?

Colin42

Saw the car. Owner said the rad picked up a nut off the road which embedded itself in the rad creating a hole/ slow leak so the rad was replaced.

The brake line was replace because it rusted out.

so the other lines may need to be replaced

The cat rusted out which is why it was replaced.

The owners seemed to be pretty decent people.
They said the next pipe down the line ("Pipe B" in online Honda parts catalog) has one of the mounting holes on the flange rusted out so it's now sort of a "U" versus it being a hole.
Not sure how this affects its connection to the flange on the cat.

as long as there isn't an exhaust leak i wouldn't worry about it

The body is in very good shape, I didn't find any rust.
Pretty amazing for a car in New England (winter road salt and all...)

I did a short test drive (2-3 miles). The brakes seemed a little mushy, meaning I had to push the pedal down a bit farther as compared to my EX.
Perhaps the brake lines need to be bled?

possibly

Ezone I didn't see your post before checking it out but will be looking at it again today.
When I do I'll flip the key to on, wait 30-40 seconds and see what happens.

How long does it take for the IM readiness monitors to complete their process/ run all of its self tests?

depends on the monitor, some within a couple miles, some around 30, the evap monitor needs very specific conditions for it to set.

ezone

Depends.....if one can get the car to meet all of the specific conditions and can drive in a very specific pattern, the monitors can run and complete within just a few miles.
OTOH if conditions and drive patterns aren't met, some monitors might never run at all.

Someone just jumping in and driving around *****-nilly......time and miles to complete all of them can't be predicted.



Brakes.....could need bled, could need shoes adjusted, could have stuck slides or pads, who knows?
Do they feel just a little different from your car (not necessarily a problem)..... or do they feel downright scary????(problem)

gts

I did the process to see if codes had been erased, all was good codes had not been erased.

I talked with the owners at length. There was quite back story to the Civic.
It belonged to a friend who was fatally sick. He bought it new form the dealer and had all regular maintenance work done at the dealer ship.
They helped to take care of their friend and used his Civic to drive him around.
At one point he was going to sell it to the dealer but they offered to buy it from him instead (we all know dealers don't pay much for a used car).
They bought it and continued to use it to drive him around.
Fwiw the Civic has only been driven 20k in the last 4 years.

Their friend eventually passed away due to his illness. I got the impression this happened sometime in the past year.
They were selling it to move past/ close the door on that part of their lives as much as anything.

In any case I ended up buying the Civic.
A day after I bought it they sent an email and offered to buy the exhaust pipe (pipe B) should it fail anytime soon and have it shipped to my house.
These are good people. That said I have no reason to doubt the sincerity of their offer.

I got it registered and have put about 45 miles on it. A mix of in town, secondary roads, and interstate highway miles. It runs and drives great.

The brakes felt normal. Kind of embarrassing but I think the seat position gave me the impression there was something wrong during the initial test drive. It was up higher than on my other EX. I knew the position seemed odd but didn't know why. It's been so long since adjusting my seat I'd forgotten about the height adjustment. One I lowered the seat to where I normally sit everything felt and worked as expected.

The other rear brake line is a bit rusty but doesn't leak. I'll keep an eye on it.

I plan to do a compression test sometime soon. Mostly just curious what numbers I'll see.

Btw what the specific conditions and drive pattern should be performed so the the monitors can complete their process?

Colin42

Well congrats on the purchase!
Hopefully you get a good number of years out of it.
Snap a picture of the line if you can

This is a generic drive cycle thing, owners manual might have more specific one?

"(Taken from Understanding OBDII: Past, Present & Future)
The OBD-II drive cycle begins with a cold start (coolant temperature below
122 degrees F and the coolant and air temperature sensors within 11 degrees
of one another).

NOTE: The ignition key must not be on prior to the cold start otherwise the
heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
1. As soon as the engine starts, idle the engine in drive for two and a half
minutes with the A/C and rear defrost on. OBD-II checks oxygen sensor heater
circuits, air pump and EVAP purge.

2. Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half
throttle. OBD-II checks for ignition misfire, fuel trim and canister purge.
Hold at a steady state speed of 55 mph for three minutes. OBD-II monitors
EGR, air pump, O2 sensors and canister purge.

3. Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking or depressing the
clutch. OBD-II checks EGR and purge functions.

4. Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at half throttle. OBD-II checks misfire,
fuel trim and purge again.

5. Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes. OBD-II monitors
catalytic converter efficiency, misfire, EGR, fuel trim, oxygen sensors and
purge functions.

6. Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking. OBD-II makes a final
check of EGR and canister purge."

ezone

Sad story but good deal.

My parents are currently driving a 04 Park Avenue Ultra (supercharged) they got when grandpa passed a few years ago. Car only had 15k on it and was garaged. Definite creampuff.

Using MY testers and methods I expect 180 PSI or higher
You found the cel did not flash after leaving the key on for a minute, so that means the monitors have completed already, nothing else for you to do.

gts

We didn't get into the details but what was shared was heart wrenching.

Yes the cel did not flash. It went off at about the 25 second mark and stayed off. Good to know this means the monitors have completed.

It was up on a lift today during the state inspection. It was amazingly clean on the underside. The guys at the garage even commented how clean it was. Literally no dirt, grease, or oil anywhere. The outside of the oil pan was spotless.
It must had to have been garaged for much if not all of its life.

The rear drivers side break line looked ok, still had the black poly? rubber? coating on it. Guys at the garage said they usually rust through by the nipple/ threaded connection.

I have a couple of receipts for some of the work the previous owner(s) had done. On one it showed the rear stabilizer links had been replaced. The shop said it was both front and rear and I think maybe a control arm too. They also said something about the quality of the parts being very good.
When I asked why these might have been replaced they said something about noise may have been the motivation to swap them out.

Will post what I find as well as what tester I use.
Is there a certain method that will yield a more accurate result?

ezone

Right, the exposed bare steel lines are where they tend to rot.

We've seen some brake in the engine compartment rust out too.


Typical. Link ends develop play and make loud pop noises when they wear out.
The compliance bushing (the forwardmost bushing) in the lower control arm eventually gets torn, also typical.

If someone screws a standard tire valve stem Schrader valve core into the tester whip because the original one went bad or got lost, pressure results will be cut in about half. That's a problem when a user has no idea what's right or wrong.
Many people just count a certain number of 'hits' during cranking and stop there. I find that doesn't always produce good accurate results.


My method:

All spark plugs out

Throttle propped wide open (wedge a stick or something between the gas pedal and the seat)

battery charger on to maintain consistent voltage during all phases of testing (slow cranking speed lowers test results, and repeated grinding on the starter can drain a battery pretty quick)

Install tester and place it where you can see the dial from the drivers seat (if solo) or wherever you want if you are going to manually jump the starter wires to crank it.

Crank it, and keep on cranking until the gauge quits climbing....and keep on cranking for several more "hits" until you are absolutely positive that's as high as it's going to go.

Mentally make a note of how much the gauge climbs on each 'hit' throughout the testing and compare as you go.

The test results determine the next steps, if needed.

-----

10 seconds checks without opening the hood:
Truth #1: If there are no misfire codes, and there aren't any in this car, compression is probably good enough.

Truth #2: If it had a cylinder with significantly low compression, a trained ear may be able to hear it during extended cranking (known as the dynamic/audible relative compression test) often done in 'clear flood' mode if the manufacturer designed it that way (not all cars can do this), or with ignition or fuel disabled manually.