Jbu

Obd2 scanner reads 2074rpm, but tach reads 750rpm ( @ idle). Obd2 scanner reads 20 kph, speedometer reads 0 kph ( sitting in park) WTheck

ezone

Would you mind rewriting that again, in English, and using complete sentences please?

Jbu

I plugged in my scanner & took a freeze frame , the rpm reading on the scanner was 2074rpm, the tachometer on the dashboard read 750rpm, the engine was idling.
The scanner also read the vehicle speed @ 20 kilometers per hour, the speedometer on the dashboard read 0 kph, because the car was sitting still in park. I don't know what would cause the scanner to read incorrectly

Jbu

The car is a 02 civic 1.7l non vtec japan model

ezone

Sorry, my lunch break was over and I didn't get back on a computer til now.

DO you mean the VIN says it was built in Japan, or this car was originally sold in Japan and was imported privately?
Huge difference.

Ok, you aren't understanding what freeze frame is then..

Freeze frame data is a snapshot of some operating data that was taken at the time the fault code was set and stored in memory until the codes are erased.

It tells the mechanic that at the moment the fault code happened the engine RPM was 2074, vehicle speed was 20kph, etc. This info helps the mechanic recreate the problem by duplicating the driving conditions whne the problem happened so he can have a better chance of getting the car to act up.

FF data has nothing to do with what you see on the gauges in front of you right now. The FF data will be the same regardless of the the engine running or not running.
If you want to compare what you see on the dash you would need to watch a live data list, not freeze frame data.

9 times out of 10, the P0730 (incorrect gear ratio) is considered a "code of death", due to the 2nd gear clutch pack worn out (I see a software update that is supposed to go along with a Honda reman transmission replacement for USA cars).......I'd expect the RPM flares between a shift (or it started out that way and now it's worse) or just has no 2nd gear left and RPM might rev as high as you let it go before it tries to shift to 3rd.
Some other symptoms might be weird shifting, shifting to what feels like a wrong gear at the wrong time or speed, downshifting when it shouldn't, etc. Might just be occasional weirdness at first, might be every time you drive it after the problem gets real bad.
I seem to get the ones where the car tries to kill the driver by slamming into first gear at about 100+kph and throwing you into the windshield, or waiting until you are in the middle of a busy intersection and it decides this is a great time to be in Neutral ----and strand you without power in the middle of traffic.

Jbu

Thank you for clearing that up for me , it makes more sense now. Vin tag says mfg in japan.
Do you think its worth getting a used transmission ?

ezone

If the trans has really shot craps, then you'll have to do something to fix it unless you want to have a nice yard ornament .......or drag it across the scales at the scrapyard for about 10 cents per pound.


The usual choices seem to be
Rebuild your trans,
replace with used (most risky),
or replace with a remanufactured unit