scooty

Any one know the Honda part number for the cylinder head bolts on the d17 SOHC?

I've already reused the originals once. Now pulling the head a second time.

ezone

It is not necessary to replace those bolts.
Reuse the bolts as often as you wish.

ezone

*sigh*

90005-PM3-003
Retail USD $7.05 each, x10

scooty

HAHA! if you say they're re-usable then I'm gna re-use the **** outta them!

Thanks, man

ezone

Is this for the engine that had a Felpro gasket let go after only 2 years?

mikey1

scooty

Nope. I would never use a Felpro HG. I did replace the original HG 2 years ago with a genuine Honda Head Gasket which is still running good.

The head is now coming off again due to a misfire in #3, traced to bad exhaust valves on that cylinder via an improvised leak down test.

I just bought a rebuilt head for $280, so off with the old one.

I still can't figure out why the exhaust valves went bad in that cylinder.

The only other issue with that cylinder is stuck rings which I confirmed by setting all the pistons level and pouring marvel mystery oil down in each hole and carefully observing the level of oil in each piston. Sure enough it went down the fastest in #3.

I just did a second piston soak and #3's rings seem to seal a bit better now.

Might decide to re-ring #3 when I have the head off.

1) can the piston be removed by removing the oil pan and pushing up from below without removing the crank shaft cradle? Or is the cylinder taper to narrow up top?

2) Can the rod bearings be re-used if they look ok?

190,000 miles on the engine.

ezone

I didn't check your history, someone was posting the felpro failed and I just wondered.
Tight valve adjustment, carbon lump stuck on the face causing leakage, age/wear/tear?
IDK. Crap happens, fix it and go.
I wouldn't stop at only one.
No. The piston has to go out through the top.
Worst there could be is a ring of carbon around the top.

Taper should not exist (the hole can't close up anyway) and ridge reaming went out with the 1970s American engines and high tension piston rings.
The top of the hole was always worn wider than the bottom, up to the ridge that needed reamed.
The ridge formed as the wall below it wore, because that's as far as the high tension piston rings moved up on the wall. The inside of the ridge was usually still the same diameter as the original cylinder bore, and the piston fit through it....but the rings cannot go past the sharp lip on the bottom, effectively trapping it until the ridge is cut off.


Low tension rings don't normally cause seriously noticeable cylinder wall wear nowadays.
Yes.

scooty

Just bought a rebuilt head. Worked out easier then getting the valves replaced....or so I thought. Looks like they sent me a Vtec head!

I have a non Vtec D17A1

I don't really care for Vtec. I just want to get the car running. Can I use the Vtec head anyway and not have the Vtec hooked up?

I noticed there are some extra holes on the intake side that my non-Vtec head does not have. Presumably for the Vtec solenoid?

Here is what they sent me. The casting number of is PMR-HA-5

scooty

Just bought a rebuilt head. Worked out easier then getting the valves replaced....or so I thought. Looks like they sent me a Vtec head!

I have a non Vtec D17A1

I don't really care for Vtec. I just want to get the car running. Can I use the Vtec head anyway and not have the Vtec hooked up?

I noticed there are some extra holes on the intake side that my non-Vtec head does not have. Presumably for the Vtec solenoid?

Here is what they sent me. The casting number of is PMR-HA-5

ezone

Just call the supplier and tell them they sent you the wrong head.


A new vtec valve to plug the open holes will probably cost more than the head did.

scooty

Is the VTEC solenoid all I would need to get this head to work? Might be able to get the seller to send me one.

ezone

AFAIK the valve and its gasket.

After that you could wire it to a standalone controller if you wanted.