Whitexj

I rebuild the transmission in my fiancés 02 civic. Everything seems fine but the indicator lights not matching up. When putting the range sensor back on it had a slight crack in it but still moved when shifted by hand. Today was the first day of driving the transmission. I shifted between drive, netruel, reverse and D3. Even though the lights did not much up every time the car seemed to change gears very nice with no problem. After driving for about 10 miles we stopped at the store, after coming out we got in and drove off. I noticed the car was a bit sluggish and didn't seem to want to move much. I pulled the shift **** down into D3 then back into drive and it drove fine. Stopped at another store and the issue came back. The D light is flashing at a fast pace and the CEL came on. I know I should have the codes pulled but I'm worried about driving it down to the store! Does it sound like the transmission range sensor finally broke and the car is unsure of what gear it's in? The car will eventually pick up speed and seems to drive better but always sluggish off the start. Any help would be greatful

ezone

Sounds like the range switch isn't in sync with the actual shift linkage position (switch alignment in relation to the shaft) or it's broke and lost contact.


Read the codes and see what the computer can tell you.

Whitexj

I replaced the range sensor with a brand new one that was set properly. The sights all line up when it's installed and tightened down. I noticed a pattern in the problem. The car drives fine and has no issues until it is shut off. Once started up the car will act as normal until you hit the brake to shift into a different gear from park. That is when the car starts acting very sluggish and heavy. It takes a bit to really get the car rolling. If I park the car, disconnect the battery and drain all power from the system I can hook it back up and drive just fine. But if shut off and started back up the issue is back. As for the codes I won't be able to get them pulled until tomorrow unless their is a diy method.

ezone

Which lights don't match up correctly?

I assume you mean an indicator light isn't synchronized with the shifter detents in one gear position or another.



Could you have the wrong range switch? BMXA vs. SLXA?

Whitexj

The old range sensor was slightly broken. The collar that went around the shift fork was splitting so it wouldn't shift with the gears. Now that I have the new one on it all lines up fine. But I'm still getting the flashing drive light, check engine light, and lag after I shut it off and start it back up.

ezone

ok, post the codes when you get them.

Whitexj

Just got back, and I have to codes popping up. One of them is P1298 and the other code is P0758. I've done some research and a few things I have read says the P1298 isn't much to worry about but an electrical overload doesn't sound good! As far as P0758 I believe it was soleniods A/B. The transmission was rebuilt so I know it's not slipping, the transmission fluid is still clean and not burnt. I can disconnect the battery, drain the power and hook it back up. I won't get any of the codes and the car drives just fine for awhile then it happens again. That shift solenoid is a bit pricey! I hope I don't have to swap it out.....

ezone

The ELD code is for a sensor in the fusebox, the sensor is most likely bad and it's only $35 from an honest dealership. Cheaper online but shipping may kill the savings.

Read this TSB for directions and part number: PDF LINK


Electrical problem in the Shift Solenoid B circuit.
This code is electrical ONLY, meaning it cannot be caused by a mechanical problem....
You are looking at a wiring problem or a solenoid failed electrically (ohm test 12-25 ohm for both SS-A and SS-B). Maaybe a bent pin in the wire connector?

Wire color is green/white, it's in a 2 wire connector down low on the front of the trans. 2 small solenoids on the right lower side, on a single connector (SS-A and SS-B share the same 2 wire connector)

HTH

Whitexj

Soon after posting I went and took a look at things. I took the wheel off to test the ohms and the plug looked a bit funny. Turns out the damn thing wasn't plugged in all the way.... Popped it in all the way, unhooked the battery and drained the power from the car. Will be taking it out for a drive here soon, pretty sure that took care of my problem lol. As for the ELD I'm wondering if that was just another issue coming from the first one. If not I'll buy a new one and all issues should be fixed! Thanks once again ezone! You are the only one that replies to my posts and have always helped solve my issues.

ezone

Get a yardstick and smack yourself across the knuckles! LOL
No, it's a separate problem. The bulletin says bad solder joints in the sensor, so it may be an intermittent failure.YW

Whitexj

Haha right! Such a fool! Glad it turned out that was the issue and nothing bigger! And if that fuse really starts giving me problems I'll swap it out.