usajags84

Fun times

usajags84

Yonk!

RSKtakR

[QUOTE=usajags84;4672808]Yonk![/QUOTE

Naa you can ask her and just let me know, I dont know enough about these motors to have a convo about them just yet lol

usajags84

That would be blind leading blind

I do not know much about these engines keep in mind ezone was the the one who confirm it was what it say it was!
All I know is it ran good and had no check engine lights
Oil was slightly dirty but full and I didn't smoke when I drove it with the bad slipping transmission (high rpm) with my buddy following me with a truck and rope down the road to feel the suspension before taking it apart for my 01

I doubt she would part it up to sell it...
She was trying to get me to buy it at first, then some guy was suppose to buy it if I pulled it. I got the body for 400 with the understanding that I had to pull engine harness ecu and give back.
The guy who was suppose to buy the motor never called back

RSKtakR

Ok well I'm just not good with calling up someone I don't know lol

ezone

<<<@!1!@>>> <--somehow that copied as the quote? Huh.
<<<@!1!@>>> <--Holy poop, the quotes aren't working!

Same as like a telemarketer?

RSKtakR

Well, I will update everyone with the oil consumption issue... Filled the car up this morning at 391.9 miles after the oil change with Valvoline max life 5w30 and the CD2 oil additive. The fluid/oil level was just over the top hole on the dipstick after the oil change Sunday, and here is a pic of the oil level this morning just before leaving for the fuel fill up when the motor has sat in the garage all night. Oil seems to be pretty dark already as it was clear Sunday when I changed it. Car used 11.088 gallons and got 35.3 mpg's and before the oil change was getting 34.3mpg's.

SO the questions is, do I just leave it be and keep adding oil since it seems the additive helped slow down the consumption(which I am fine with for now) OR go ahead and sea foam the motor and possibly risk cleaning it out to much and making the ring problem worse since I don't know exactly what it is?

If I just leave it alone for now, should I add another qt of that CD2 additive with the next oil change or anymore to the current oil?

Thanks for everyone's help btw!

mikey1

wow, my oil looks cleaner then that when its due to be changed after 4-5,000 miles

RSKtakR

Ya what came out when I changed the oil the too was black, and we were putting in what seemed to be 2qts a week. The oil shown has the additive in it as well, but it was also clear for the most part. Maybe it has something to do with the fact that it had fully synthetic in it before which cleans everything. ??

mikey1

im not sure, i dont believe in expensive oils, i believe frequency is more important then quality, as long as the oil is approved,

standard 5w20 for me, im not fixing what isnt broken

bsmiley

Wow, something made a difference!

I would keep it topped up with 5w-20 and keep track of how much oil it uses for 3k miles. If you go through enough oil I'd add some CD2 additive in too. Try to keep the ratio of additive the same.

The picture was to show the level and its hard to tell, but it does look dirty for 400 miles of driving.

I agree with Mikey, frequency is more important. I use Pennziol or Castrol from Walmart. Whatever is lower price. Quaker Sludge is okay too. I let the Mercedes jocks keep Mobil 1 in business.

I also try to use top tier gasolines. http://www.toptiergas.com/

RSKtakR

I have the first CD2 treatment in right now with this oil change. So far it's gone through just over half a qt in 400 miles but it's better than it was two weeks ago. I have valvoline 5w30 max life (synthetic blend) in it right now with the CD2.

RSKtakR

Filled the gas tank last night, 389.2 miles, 11.153 gallons of fuel, 34.8 mpg's and had to add 1.25 qts of oil.

mikey1

are you saying you consumed 1.25 qts of oil in 390 miles?

thats almost unbelievable if its not leaking,

that is over 4 times the amount i burn in 5,000 miles,

is the engine running okay? any CEL?

RSKtakR

That's exactly what I'm saying lol.. and yet it doesn't smoke at all during idle (cant see any unless its floored and even then it doesn't seem that black).. and the motor has ZERO leaks, I'm a real bitch about leaking cars, and the bottom of this motor/car is really clean and shows no signs of ever having any leaks.
There is a CEL and it is P0420 catalyst system efficiency below threshold bank 1. I didn't see any cracks on the exhaust manifold, but I can look again just to make sure, I was going to replace both O2 sensors, but every time I order new ones, I end up getting two downstream sensors instead of the correct upstream and downstream sensors, and then the parts store guys think I'm on the crack when I tell them that the upstream and downstream are different sensors, and they keep giving me the wrong one as it was packaged incorrectly. Regardless this CEL has nothing to do with the oil consumption issue. And since the car is still getting 34-35mpg's I'm not terribly worried about the CEL at this point. I'm pretty sure that a different short block is going to be needed so that I can swap this one out. I'm thinking that doing a sea foam treatment to this motor might be my next step and if that doesn't work then the only options left are to replace the short block or keep dumping oil into it. I should've known this car had problems that I couldn't see when we bought it.

ezone

Or just pull the head off and rering it in the car.
I see part of your problem here.

KillerCam251

I am having this exact same problem now, and have had a long running coolant consumption problem as well I'm sure everyone and their mom will say head gasket but I'm sure its not. I'm to the point now I'm just saving my money for a new engine, its just so ridiculous.

ezone

At work, I can usually prove it bad or good in about 15 minutes.

KillerCam251

what have you done? Ive done a block test, compression test, leak down test, replaced thermostat. Pretty much everything with negative results, I think I have a magical motor where all fluids disappear for the hell of it, I wouldn't be surprised if my tranny fluid was magically disappearing I should probably check it

But on a serious note this is the first car I personally have came across that has the most asinine reasons for failures. Stuck oil control rings? Holy crap, and a headgasket that is sure to fail at it's one whole purpose. Honda really out did themselves to make such a POS engine on this one.

ezone

Fluids don't "magically disappear", there's always a reason for it. It's not always easy to figure it out, but the answer is there.

Basically, I apply shop airline pressure to each sealed cylinder and watch for ANY change in the coolant level. (There's more to it though.)


BTW any used engine is also likely to have all the typical problems yours did too.

Not asinine. This certainly isn't the only engine or manufacturer with this issue.

You should have bought an all original 95 Neon with about 20k on it..... and drive it a while. Suffer through having 4 or 5 head gasket jobs before the factory figures out how to stop the hemorraging oil leaks from it, and by that time all the hacks that did the previous repairs have ruined the head so it'll never seal up again.

You'd appreciate this Honda so much more.
I could name a dozen other cars with well known major problems too.

KillerCam251

Well yea I know there is worse out there thats why I said "I" personally haven't seen it, this is the 5th Honda I have owned and is a far cry from all of them and more akin to my 94 Ranger I had that liked to turn itself on and off while driving, which is dangerous losing your brake booster going 70mph in rush hour morning traffic lol

ezone

There ought to be a recall for that because it can catch fire. All Ford recalls seem to involve fire.







What's the last things that happen on the Ford assembly line?

Turn the truck right side up and put the fire out.

RSKtakR

I don't think I want to tear into this engine at all really. I would assume doing that would involve removing the head of course. Seems like it would just be easier to swap motors lol. We are undecided what to do with the car right now. Might just keep it for a while and start keeping full of cheap oil everyday for now since its getting 34-35mpg's then also thinking of just selling it and not mentioning the oil consumption issue and instead mentioning all the other maintenance that has been done to sell the car and not lose our asses on it. lol

Another thing I don't quite understand is IF the rings are letting all this oil by to get burned then WHY in the hell did the compression test I did yield 165-185psi across all 4 cylinder's? Did I do it wrong or something? Could the valve guide seals be what is letting all the oil by even though they were just replaced and if so, how hard are they to replace??

mikey1

upper portion of the block? i wont touch that one....Lol

if its running fine and your happy with it, then adding oil every few days is probably your cheapest option, think about how much oil you can buy for the cost of an overhaul or engine replacement,

if you do buy a used engine make sure it comes with a good warranty, you never know what your getting, that used engine could already have a blown head gasket,

if the problem is your valve guides/seals, then it might be best to buy a reconditioned head and swap it,

it all depends on what the REAL problem is, and how much work you are able to do yourself,

KillerCam251

a compression test can't measure the ability of the oil control rings, so you can have good compression on the compression rings but the oil control rings can be stuck in their groove. I personally am thinking of a new engine, they are only $750 on H Motors Online.

RSKtakR

LOL I had read somewhere that there was an "upper portion of the block" that someone posted, so ya clearly that was false and there is just a block and a head like every other motor out there.

I can accept the oil consumption, but the wife doesn't want to lol, oil is cheap especially when you know its just getting burned so no reason to have oil that costs $6 a qt. The head was gone through 4k miles ago, and the more I read the more I think its the rings as well and not the valve seals. I guess my next step is to try some sea foam and if that doesn't work then fawk it and just keep driving it and check the oil daily.

RSKtakR

I just learned that as well.

That Hmotors deal doesn't look bad, unless shipping kills you. Shipping to my residence is $275 on top of the $750.. for a motor that has 37k, and I have to swap the intake manifold and exhaust manifold. 30 day warranty. Not TERRBILE I guess.

usajags84

That doesn't seem to bad in all actuality... 1025 and some labor you could probally sell your head to recoup some of your investment I wouldn't mind seeing that motor tore down

RSKtakR

Kinda what I think as well. As of right now I think this is going to be the option I choose this next spring and just keep cheap oil in it all winter.

KillerCam251

Pretty much my idea as well, and if you change your timing belt, plugs, water pump, tensioner on the motor from HMotors you'll get a 100% start up guarantee, and it'll be a 90 day warranty. It comes with the manis too so you won't have to swap them.