tunedx

I picked up used D17A jdm motor and getting ready to install it and wondering what would be easier considering I'm also replacing the clutch in the mix?

Remove the engine and transmission or just the engine?

Also is there any changes that need to be made? Stock engine is d17a2..

ezone

I would either pull the trans off first, or take both out together.

You will have one hell of a time trying to take out just the engine or shove the engine back in with the trans still in the car. Clutch and shaft splines will fight you all the way, and you would need a whole lot of room to clear the pressure plate.

tunedx

Whats more time consuming?

Remove the engine and transmission or split the transmission and remove the engine?

ezone

Probably roughly the same either way. (depends on your location, equipment, abilities, tooling, etc.)

My personal preference would be to take it all out at once and then split them apart once they are out on the ground/bench/cherry picker/wherever.

Others might choose the other way.

tunedx

I ended up having to swap throttle buddies due to the other tb not having cruise control.. I have high idle now that doesn't seem to go away. I figured the throttle cable need to be adjusted and did just that. Still nothing.. I did some searching and tried the ecu relearn this morning. It seems to idle fine upon start up but goes to high idle. I also got p505, p1505 code that is map sensor and tp sensor. I will run this for a full tank of gas to get the fuel trims to normal as required part of the ecu relearn. Hope it works....

Any suggestions on my issues at this point??

ezone

The codes are not for TPS.
P0506, P0507, P1505, are idle speed issues. The computer isn't able to control idle speed.

P0122, P0123 would be a TPS code.


Reach in the throttle body and plug the side ports with your fingers. Does the engine RPM come way down or stall?


I'd look for vacuum leaks, maybe a stuck IAC valve. Missing gasket? Hoses left detached? PCV? Cracked plastic intake?

tunedx

I tried another idle learn method which involves removing fi fuse 20 seconds, plug it in and rev engine 3000rpm 3 mins and then idle for 3 mins.
Not sure weather Im using the right method or not and also how long does it take to idle learn.. I heard one tank of gas...

In the process I noticed when u continue to pump the brake pedal the idle seems to climb and when u push it in and hold it the idle seems to drop but still idling high. Is this vacuum leak and faulty brake booster..

tunedx

Engine returns to normal idle when this port is plugged. Also it seems like the butter fly springing back to home position return to home position.

ezone

Idle learn is 10 minutes after warmup, tops.

BUT it can't learn if there is a problem, and you have a problem.
No. This is normal.
The booster uses engine vacuum. You repeatedly pumping the brake pedal only simulates a vacuum leak. The booster is fine.


Does that mean the throttle (or cruise) cable is too tight? There must be some slack in the cables so the throttle can close completely.



Did this thing run OK with the other throttle body?

tunedx

I didn't run other tb because it never had cruise control.

There is some slack in the cable. I followed the directions regarding the throttle cable adjustment. I start the car up and idles fine until I hit the pedal then I get high idle. Almost seems to me the the spring mechanism in throttle body isn't doing it job or maybe throttle cable is worn out. Should the butterfly be open slightly?? Also I plugged the port on inside of the tb and idle returns to normal.

ezone

Twist the throttle closed by hand. Did that do anything?

Is there still slack in the cable after you hit the pedal and get high idle?

Possible, but I would think it would have been doing this on the other engine too.
No. It should be all but closed. (If it were completely closed, the butterfly (throttle blade) would jam in the bore.)
This should never change unless someone messed with the throttle stop screw or it's been damaged.
TPS voltage at closed throttle would also be changed and probably throw off the PCM.


Swap throttle bodies?
Swap IAC valve?
Is your IAC stuck open?

tunedx

Not sure why but it runs fine with the original throttle body the engine came with. Only reason why I swapped tb was for cruise control.. I can do with out it. Either the spring mechanism pooched on my tb not allowing butterfly to close all the way or this motor wont except another tb.. but it runs like a champ now..

Thanks for your help boyz...

tunedx

Update..

Car runs better with the new tb but still seems to vibrate. Steer wheel shakes vibration resonance thorough out the car. I've gotten several engines code.

p1129
p505
p1505
p1475

New TB

p1457

All these codes have been cleared. I'm not sure what to do @ this point. I don't really wanna start replacing parts as soon as I get a code..

What do u suggestion I do???

ezone

Motor mounts, are they new? Aftermarket? Original to the car? Original to the new engine?

Tried the neutralization procedure for mounts?




Since when?

Did you look up definitions of each of the codes?
(P1475 does not exist for this car)

Not new IIRC. I still think you coulda swapped the IAC valve instead.

Did you not connect the EVAP line or solenoid?

What codes have returned?Codes are almost never defined as "replace parts".

Think. research. Diagnose.

tunedx

Motor mounts, are they new? Aftermarket? Original to the car? Original to the new engine?

Tried the neutralization procedure for mounts?

Transmission and engine mounts are all aftermarket new. I do recall that I had issues with the rear mount. The bracket holes never really lined up properly. Once the front mount was tight the rear mount holes lined up a bit better. Still not perfect.. As each mount was installed it seems like the mount was used to pull the engine into the right direction..




I've gotten several engines code.
Since when?

Engine fired up (my old tb installed)


p1129
p505
p1505
p1475
Did you look up definitions of each of the codes?
(P1475 does not exist for this car) Evap bypass solenoid leak


New TB (old off the used motor I bought)
Not new IIRC. I still think you coulda swapped the IAC valve instead.

p1457
Did you not connect the EVAP line or solenoid? Not sure where is it? Maybe overlooked when I swapped tb over



All these codes have been cleared.
What codes have returned?


I cleared them with the scanner. p505 and p1505 returned few times with the other tb that gave me the high idle.

ezone

You won't get rid of the vibrations now.You mean P1457. You diagnosed this bypass solenoid as the actual problem? (That's not the definition of the code number)


It's the solenoid attached to the side of the throttle body.

This pic looks about right


So you have zero codes setting now?

tunedx

So there is no way to get rid of the vibration? I read the honda manual and it states the sequence on how to tighten engine mounts. Start with rear, side mount, front mount and then transmission mount.. I did tranny, side, front and rear mount last..

Only code that has popped up twice is 1457. I have my old evap purge solenoid to reinstall.. I will give that a go..

ezone

Maybe if you put the original mounts back in it.


Do the neutralization procedure first.

ezone

This thread has a link to the procedure somewhere

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...dle-issue.html

Also note talk about aftermarket mounts

tunedx

Last night I loosen the front (bolt that goes thru rubber) back (bolt that goes thru rubber and side mount. Fired up the car and moved it back and forth to try and reseat the motor.. Not sure weather Im loosing the proper bolts or what. I will also try loosing the tranny mount too and give it another go..

I also read there is break-in period with new mounts... Is this true will the mounts soften up after 500-1000miles??

This engine was mated to auto tranny before. I bolted it up to manual.. Does this have any barring on any issues

ezone

The single large bolt in each mount is the one to loosen and retighten.

Not that I'm aware of.
No idea, but I doubt it.

Stock mounts may be different for manual vs auto though.
I know coupe-sedan makes a difference for at least one of them.

tunedx

I loosened up all the mounts but the rear. Started up the car and it seems like the vibration was significantly reduced @ idle. Then I proceeded to torque each mount in sequence ending with the front mount. No change after everything was snugged up. At this point I don't know what to do. I can't live with this stupid vibration.

Any suggestions??

ezone

I reread this line
Makes me think you still have mount(s) in a bind. Mis-drilled mounting holes? Enlarge the mounting holes to give some room to move?

Or......

tunedx

Update

Swapped the ds aftermarket engine mount with oem mount and my vibration issue was alot better. There is space between the side of the bracket and the rubber mount now..

I still have little rough idle. Factors to consider

1. IAC controller was cleaned prior to motor install (should I install new one?)

2. New plugs have been installed (NGK Iridium, not sure weather different plugs are required for jdm spec engine or just run oem Denso PKJ20C)

3. Running Bosal aftermarket catayilic converter

4. Valves have been adjusted (no change)

5. Mounts haven't been neutralized since new ds mount install?

6. aftermarket engine mounts besides the ds oem mount that was replaced.


Could someone point me in the right direction. I really don't wanna pay the dealer to play the guessing game. This could get quite expensive..

tunedx

Bump

ezone

What's the question? I thought this was just an update since you said it was a lot better.

Is it unfinished progress?

Ya? Keep going!

tunedx

I still have little rough idle. Factors to consider

1. IAC controller was cleaned prior to motor install (should I install new one?)

2. New plugs have been installed (NGK Iridium, not sure weather different plugs are required for jdm spec engine or just run oem Denso PKJ20C)

3. Running Bosal aftermarket catayilic converter

4. Valves have been adjusted (no change)

5. Mounts haven't been neutralized since new ds mount install?

6. aftermarket engine mounts besides the ds oem mount that was replaced.

7. Upstream 02 sensor is Denso (not sure the part #) and downstream 02 is Bosch 13377 ( Not sure weather the primary 02 needs to be Honda oem 02)

Could someone point me in the right direction. I really don't wanna pay the dealer to play the guessing game. This could get quite expensive..

ezone

My comment here:
This comment was meant as 'finish replacing the aftermarket mounts with genuine Honda parts, and do the neutralization procedure.'



Figure out if your "little rough idle" is an actual running issue (problem) with the engine, or if it is just a vibration issue with the mounts, exhaust, or anything else that might transmit vibration into the passenger compartment..

HTH