Nakinto

I purchased a used 2003 Civic about 4 months ago. I paid to much the engine was toast. I got about 12000 miles before it blew up due to a spun bearing (ConRod kinda blew out the side of the engine #2 piston). Replaced the engine with a Japanese import

I overheated the engine about 800 miles later due to (probably) not burping the system properly. I replaced the water pump it was leaking and the thermostat, latter when tested did not open at all until 190F and didn't fully open until around 220... WAY broken. car was running well for an hour of driving then suddenly temp started jumping up I pulled over tested top and bottom radiator hoses top is HOT bottom is... cold this FEELS like the new thermostat is broken already... great jeebus I hate buying non honda parts! I DID burp the system until it stopped bubbling. I have no oil in the water and no water in my oil as well as no smelly exhaust so I am going with NOT having a blown head gasket atm. new water pump is not leaking I have no dripping of anything unless I spill it.

Any one have any advice in this regards is there anything else I can check? Or possible other causes I REALLY dont think I have air in the system still as the heater runs great (when the thermo was bad heater would only run at 2200+rpm)

Thanks

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

you answering yourself what to do next? thermostat. OEM

also, our engines do not mix oil and water, unless it's REALLY blown.

Nakinto

Ok so basically replace with a HONDA thermostat. I already ordered one from HONDA directly

as far as the POSSIBILITY of a blown head gasket I know in SOME engine (Chevy cough) a tiny scratch on the head gasket destroys the engine fast. You are saying that is not the case with Honda's engines?

this is the first Honda I have owned None of my friends/family have owned a Honda and my previous was a Rotary Mazda and that thing destroyed half the engine (steel seal broken inside engine on rotary looks like wolverine was in there) and still runs... albeit like crap but still runs.

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

here:
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...reference.html

ezone

No comment.

You don't understand what a radiator does?

Why?





Yeah. Check for a blown head gasket. See the link in the previous post.

That's sounding like an assumption, not an inspection.
That's not a sign of a bad thermostat. That's a sign of an airlocked heater core.

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FWIW, we had 2 Civics roll in Friday with blown head gaskets. One with 77k, the other with about 180k.
I get to do one on Monday AM.
The other (180k) said they were going to dump (sell) the car.

Nakinto

do YOU know what a radiator does? there should NEVER be a 50-100 degree difference between top and bottom of radiator HOSE 15-30 sure but not to the point that you can burn yourself on one and the other feel air temperature.

Also leaking head gasket, bad thermo, clogged line, air in the radiator, bad heater control valve, and broken water pump.

On those lines just drained the radiator most of the way ran the engine with a block test kit woops it turned yellow... did a compression test cylinder 1 and 2 are both leaking hurray! now to hope I don't have a cracked block haha still no coolant in oil so I think I just have a blown head anyone have any ADVICE? I can do the work myself I just came here for advice and test procedures to figure this stuff out as I really don't want to fix anything that isn't broken ya know?

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

he is full time mechanic... best we have around here...

again, why do you want to check engine swap? see above "freaking out"

ezone

I absolutely do know what its job is, and...
...your assertion here as to temperature difference is quite incorrect.


Test procedure was covered in the first post of the link that was mentioned. Specifically this part:
Each of those items was fairly easy to evaluate based solely on your symptom descriptions and history. And experience.

Cracked block is not common.
Cracked head is not common.
WARPED head IS common if overheated. 0.002" warpage is the max limit.

Fix the head gasket problem correctly and most of your other complaints will disappear.


HTH.
Anything else I can help you with?

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

ah, OK.

If you read the link i posted, you would have known that usually in our engines the coolant does not go to the oil. exhaust gases enters cooling system.

you would also have known that most of the usual testers does not show any results, UNLESS head gasket is BADLY blown. (the most effective ones are on the FIRST POST of that link, but again you would have known if you took the time to read the answers, instead of ignoring it and replying you need advice)

so, feel free to read the thread and start getting parts for the head gasket replacement.

ezone

And part time smartass.His must be fairly bad.

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

^ that too, keep rollin' the roll

Nakinto

I have been reading that post that is where I got the idea to do a combustion gas test also where I got the idea to do a compression test on the cylinders. I am fairly new to working on ENGINES and after my first 'lets go all out' with my first car am much more... cautious when it comes to replacing stuff that might not need to be replaced.

First car needed a new upper timing chain tensioner... I replaced the chain and lower tensioner at the advice of a... less then commendable mechanic.. sad to say but I messed up on the upper sprocket and snapped that thing off after about 600 miles, car still ran though haha took the front cover off and broke it in the process 22Y/O car and third time taking the cover off. I have no want to REPEAT my mistakes and replace anything that is NOT necessary. This is why I am here.

I appreciate your advice sdaidoji Thank you and thank you for your link to the test page that is what I am asking for in ways of replacing the head gasket is there anything I should check while I have the head off? I am not here to have people call me an idiot for not knowing as much as some one that has been working on engines for 20 years or make ASSumptions taking what I have said completely out of context.

Thank you for the help so far guys
Love you all!

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

Look, don't worry, we both sound scary but in the end, we actually try to help (past our mouths, of course :P). We need a good cop to play with us bad cops...
If overheated, always check if head warped, machine shop or a long ruler.

One big question - you said chain?!? What country and which civic trim do you have? If car is US Si, it will have a k-series engine, which is an entirely different animal... still check for head eveness, tho.

ezone

Sorry I'm not a diplomat, by any means. That's one reason I like to deal with cars, not people.

You're welcome. Thanks for shopping.

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Do any other work that is near time to be done and will be easier to do with the head gasket job in progress.....

Like, how many miles are on the car?

Is it due for a timing belt yet? How soon? It's a little more work and like $25 for a belt.
Water pump? Tensioner? Plugs?
Clean out the EGR passages in the injector plate if yours has EGR.

Nakinto

ok I JUST replaced timing belt this is a used engine with 45k on it when purchased (Japanese) water pump just replaced OEM same with tensioner. It REALLY needs new plugs now... overheat messed one of the plugs up good heh others are good but I will always replace all 4 NGK aren't 'carried' at my local auto-parts stores (WTF?!?). EGR is not in my repair manual I know it is there just not covered in repair haha.



sdaidoji my FIRST car had a chain it was a '96 Sentra I payed 2500 for her and got 128k before any repairs.

ezone

Ok so those are assumed ok.

Can't your parts store order the right plugs? NGK or DENSO, both are excellent.

Clean the EGR passages, the plate the injectors are mounted in separates from the manifold, clean the carbon buildup out while you have the head out of the way. If only 45k the buildup shouldn't be a lot yet.

IDK what else. Not much.

Have the head checked for flatness at a machine shop if you don't have a precision straightedge.

Suck the liquid out of the head bolt holes before you try to put it together. You can crack the block or have head gasket leak all over again if you don't.

Nakinto

Suck the liquid out of the head bolt holes before you try to put it together. You can crack the block or have head gasket leak all over again if you don't.

Thank you for that info Ezone I would probably have ruined the engine without it!

I will be having the head checked/machined fixing a problem without coving all the possible problems is just asking to spend 50 grand on a $5 fix you know?

The stores can order the spark plugs and they have. Spark plugs just wont come in until Tuesday (not that my gaskets get here before then anyways) Suggestions on the gaskets to use? is there a big difference between OEM and aftermarket?

ezone

Can't vouch for any aftermarket stuff as I'm in a dealership. I only use factory parts for this.

Some people want to replace head bolts, that's not necessary either.

Nakinto

Thank you.
I also noted you have a rotary pickup wish my rear rotor was holding compression in my '85 rx7 haha

ezone

Mine is a 87 B2000, not a REPU (mid 70s era).

But I spent 10 years in a Mazda dealership....
I'm familiar with rotor motors----will only replace, I will never try to rebuild one for a customer.

Yours lost an apex seal? Probably would need the rearmost 3 case sections if you want to rebuild.

Repower it!

Nakinto

Actually I DID rebuild it all new rotor housings and seals/springs etc still wont hold compression in 2 faces of rear rotor took it apart replaced springs and seals AGAIN no luck I cant imagine the thing needs resurfacing on the irons but when I have the MONEY I will be having that done to it or just doing a 13b swap take out that 12a.

But this is now getting totally off topic haha

ezone

I've seen that story before, did you mention this in another post?

If you have compression in one chamber of the rotor but not the other two, the housings shouldn't be the fault.

Did you put in a new rotor?
Pinched/sticking apex seal?
Side seals?
Something leaking between the 2 affected rotor chambers (has to be) the cause.

Been away from them for a long time now.... 97 was when I left that dealer.
I still have an official rotary digital compression tester, haven't used it in nearly a decade LOL. I wonder if it still works.

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

ah, ok, you gave me a scare there

glad things are moving forward (seems you have also got some directions for the rx7 too )

Hey, ezone, how do I change my 95 miata to OBDII? (joking!!!! )

ezone

Buy a 96 Miata?

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

^ smart ansswer

Nakinto

Head is almost off any suggestions for removing this annoying intake manifold? it is SO tight cant even get an open box wrench onto one of the bolts... do I REALLY have to take the entire engine out? I was told by some one else that is not necessary but even the blown one lying on the pallet I can't get the manifold off without some serious trouble.

AND once I have the head the rest of the way off any suggestions on CLEANING the area? I already drained the water and oil but still a little of both got all over the sealant area and I was hoping for some pointers.

Thanks guys

ezone

There are three, 10 mm nuts on the bottom of the intake body. They point straight down....near the oil filter.

I have enough wrenches to disconnect the manifold from the head without trouble.
Some here think it's easier for them to pull the head with the intake still attached.

Who in the hell pulls the entire engine just to take the head off? That sounds like a ton of wasted time and effort to me.


Cleaning: Razor blade and spray brake cleaner. The only thing to scrape is some black "paint". The rest is just fluids.

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

i took head out with the manifold in it...

Nakinto

Roger I left the intake on and spilled oil form the head all over everything haha had a hell of a cleanup still have some oil in the water in the water jacket, as well as oil in 2 of the bolt 'wells' and water in 3 of them gonna have fun getting that **** out...

ezone

Yeah the head holds a good half quart of oil, it can go everywhere if you aren't ready for it. (Good reason to have a helper)


Ideas:

Oil in the water jacket,

are you gonna replace the water pump? If so, just wash it right out the pump hole.
Don't take off the pump is you aren't gonna replace it though, the rubber gasket doesn't like to seal up again the second time.

You could float the oil out, as long as you know that half the water is gonna end up in the crankcase.


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Bolt holes:
I might use a fluid evacuator to suck liquid out of the holes (we have several different sizes and types at work)
Or a hand vacuum pump with the brake bleeding chamber attached to it

I might use an air blow gun to blow the junk out of the holes...

I might use a shop vac with a straw taped to the nozzle.

I might use canned compressed air, or computer duster instead of a blow gun.

I might use brake cleaner in a spray can to clean the holes, and then follow it up with the blow gun, repeat until clean and dry.



Remember to change oil at least once when done, and you may want to change oil again really soon after it's done too. Especially if there's any chance you got coolant into the crankcase (drainback holes in the deck).