jedema

I like that idea because it saves me a lot of hassle And money. I know my pulley dances around a lot but the shaft seems solid Might work

ezone

Kit would be a pulley and outer clutch plate. You can buy the field coil too if necessary. All from Honda. I don't know if aftermarket would supply these.

#4 would be the pulley and clutch kit



http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...R+%28SANDEN%29


You'll need various snap ring pliers and you'll need to set up the clearance of the clutch plate gap as you assemble the unit.

Most of the time I can get the pulley removed with simple prybars and some effort and finesse, or you might need a puller to get the pulley removed.

IDK how hard it is to do in the car, I can't remember anyone having me do it on a 7th gen. I have been able to replace the pulley and coil on other cars without touching the freon.

jedema

Other than being right next to the frame, it seems doable. Pull power steering pump, alternator, and it's right there...

Do you know what the clearance is supposed to be?

ezone

0.5mm +/- 0.15mm

I always shoot for the 0.5mm

I prefer to use a dial indicator on them, not a feeler gauge.
Jumper wires to battery to engage clutch to take reading during setup.

jedema

Perfect. Well after work today I'm going to see if I can remove the pulley and see what shape the shaft is in

ezone

The outer plate of the clutch is what the shaft connects to.

The pulley sits on a machined boss or snout on the compressor housing.

jedema

What a pain. Got the pulley removed with a little heat to the locknut. My retaining Ron pliers don't want to grab the inside retaining ring so I'm going to have to invest in a better set. Best part is that the bearings inside the pulley were toast. Going to try and replace the coil as well since I'm there and banging on it.

ezone

Pay close attention to the way the snap rings face, be aware ONE 'flat' surface of the snap rings are actually tapered or beveled around the inside edge.
The opposite side is flat.

When you reassemble, the tapered side faces you. Squeeze each ring into its groove, that is to push the component firmly against the rear surface.

jedema

Alright Ezone. I did the swap and when I was putting it together I was not able to get the gap tight enough. It seems that the pulley is set back too far or maybe ate away at the AC compressor some. Either way my gap is too big and I can hear the car bogging down a bit when it kicks in. Does that pulley space itself off from the clutch coil? maybe I just didnt' get something seated properly? All of the snap rings are in place correctly and the orientation is correct.

ezone

How big are you calling "too big"? Spec is specified for a reason.

Correct clearance is a must. Too tight and it will drag or stay engaged, and too loose can cause it to quit engaging when hot or not engage at all.

The compressor does create a large drag on the engine when engaged, some designs can require as much as 5 horsepower to run the compressor so you will hear and feel when it kicks on.

Not sure what you mean here. Coil seats against the compressor body, so does the pulley...when installed correctly.

Pulley seats against the snout base on the compressor as far on as it will go. Snap ring is beveled to apply some pressure and keep pulley pushed into that position if correctly installed.

Clutch plate uses the thin little shims to adjust the gap.
Original shim(s) may still be stuck to the compressor shaft? That happens a lot, the shims become magnetized after use and can stay stuck in place.

You are using all new pulley and plate set, correct?

Seems like there should be evidence it this happened, the snout would have unusual marks that weren't from the original machining process. Look closely?

jedema

yess all new. I was closer to 1.27mm gap after everything was installed and tight. No shims that I could see, but maybe I missed them. I know that I didn't install any extra. Guess I'll tear it all apart again on Saturday.

ezone

You sure you are measuring right? You got it to engage and run?

Seems like if the gap is over 1mm most don't engage at all when I set one up on the bench and power it up.

jedema

It was engaging and running but it started squeeking and honestly I thought It sounded like a text message. I could feel the car struggling to turn it just in the drag. I tore it apart today and found what I didn't notice the first time. The pump itself is shot. Gonna have to change it. Dang. Time to hit the salvage yards. Dont wanna drop $400 on a new one.