Originally Posted by Portland_civic

if i upgrade the disc to i have to get new calipers and break pads too or how does it work?

Originally Posted by mikey1

calipers....no

if your replacing rotors then yes, its recommended to replace the pads also at the same time....i would never put old pads on new rotors....slotted or drilled rotors will not help you stop quicker, they just cool faster

Originally Posted by Portland_civic

I used to have a 98 eclipse and It had drilled and slotted break discs, and it used to stop on a dime in dry, and in wet they very rearly locked up, it also had nice new tires. And obviously new break pads but I mean like I do they got to be special break pads and if I stick with same size break disc then the calipers should fit right? Also about rear breaks drums how do I go about that?

Originally Posted by sl33pyriceboi

you are prob wondering why kenny said slotted/drilled and negligible in performance for our cars.

the original intent of drilled rotors (the holes) was the allow excess gas to be sucked into the vains of the rotors (inside of the rotor) to prevent gas build up between the rotor surface and pad. HOWEVER, pad technology has gone a very long way and the technology for it has exponentially improved. gas is no longer a problem.

drilled rotors also serve as a cooling purpose. it draws air into the veins of the rotor and pushes it out (like many computer fans). however, to do this efficiently, you need directional veined rotors. there is NO aftermarket stock sized rotor that makes directional vein rotors. our 10" rotors are too small for manufactures to give a crap because no one really "races" our rotors to even be considered. most "track/race" civics will have a big brake kit on there.

directional vented vain vs straight vained (what we have) rotors:


now, slotted rotors. those are the little slits you see on rotors. their purpose is to act as a razor blade and clean the surface of the pad with every swipe to allow a clean pad contact with the rotor. HOWEVER, this will EAT UP YOUR PADS very very quickly (compared to say a blank rotor)



application to our cars:

why do we advise NOT to get them for our cars? a few reasons.

1. when you drill/slot the rotors, you significantly lose surface area of your rotor. that means less surface area for your pad to come in contact with your rotor. this means less friction, less braking power, and a loss in braking performance.

so why do all the higher end cars have them? because they run 15" rotors and we run 10." they can throw some drills/slots in there and not sacrifice surface area.

2. properly drilled/slotted/veined rotors are meant to take and cool high heat...ie racing applications. if you drive on the streets and do occasional spirited driving, you will rarely push your rotors to its limits. and if you ARE serious about racing/autox, then your stock rotor is extremely insufficient and you need to think of investing in a big brake kit.

3. drilling/slotting the rotors weakens the structure. period. there is no argument in it. its basic physics. when you look at the cars that have proper drilled/slots, you will notice that the thickness of their rotor is MUCH thicker than ours.

google it, you'll find plenty of failed rotors that were drilled.


and this isn't exclusive to our little rotors. There have been guys with the IS-F that have cracked their oem rotors on the track. google and you shall see.



now, for street applications for your civic, if you want to go with slotted/drilled rotors, then thats fine. chances are you will not push those rotors to their limits and if you got a decent brand, you'll be ok.

and if you want them simply for looks, no one here is to tell you otherwise because its your car, your taste. hope you have learned something and hope i have cleared some confusion concerning drilled slots.

Originally Posted by Portland_civic

thinking of doing something to make the car stop quicker and shorter, and at same time to get them too cool down faster. any tips or input? if i upgrade the disc to i have to get new calipers and break pads too or how does it work?

Originally Posted by sdaidoji

most recent one, if you wondering
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/4...t-awesome.html

and if you really serious, better read first:
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/4...elled-out.html

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/4...1-01-05-a.html

and no, it's not an easy undertaking. one member had his troubles when attempting one conversion. and he is no slouch, but the differences caused a lot of trouble to him.
if you just saying for saying, do not recommend trying.

but most of all, as sl33py put it so well, what stops cars are tires, not brakes. if you lock then tires, no matter what locking power brakes have. if you ask me back what is the best tire? i will simply reply the best for the circumstances. (extreme performance tires in snow does not sound right, correct?)



BTW, why are you lol'ing?

Originally Posted by Portland_civic

Makes since, I wouldn't get that for looks, it's a daily driver so I want it to be safer before I go faster. Look is just the bonus

Originally Posted by sl33pyriceboi

Then don't get drilled/slots for your oem sized if you want to be safe.

If your peddle gets soft under braking then its time to flush your brake system and put new fluid in there.

And it you want a stiffer/firmer (less spongy feel), get stainless steal brake lines

Originally Posted by Portland_civic

The pedal is still same stiffness but the way the car reacts to the amount of pressure applied don't match, and come a point when I'm pushing hardest and all the way and the car is barely dropping speed, and when it does stop they almost glow. So I ment the breaks get soft not the pedal

Originally Posted by johndeerebones

Either your pads are junky, or your braking technique isn't very good... Learn to drive a semi or big truck and the first thing you learn is how to brake properly. Stab the brakes hard to get to your "set speed", then let off of them completely until the upper set speed, then repeat as needed. Doesn't matter if you have 10 inch or 20 inch brakes if you ride them they will heat up.

Originally Posted by Muirsy

5 lug swap from a rsx type s if you want to stop on a dime.. drilled and slotted rotors will not do anything

Originally Posted by BlueEM2

RSX type "S" :



vs. RSX Base:



Huge upgrade. Your going from a 10" rotor to 11.8". These swaps can be seen on Kijiji for as little as 300 dollars. It is a big job though, and you need new rims+tires. Still cheaper than a BBK.

Originally Posted by Matt_75

Yeah, still way more expensive than just running stock with little or no performance improvement on braking.

Originally Posted by Muirsy

5 lug swap from a rsx type s is relatively cheap and is a huge improvement over stock braking