Civicnoobie

just curious, and post your milage. Do honda starters generally need to be replaced at a certain milage or should they last as long as the car?

I notice mine on colder mornings, cold starting it, it can take a 1-2 secs longer to start. So im wondering if i should get it tested to prevent future problems of it not starting at all.

sl33pyriceboi

iTrader: (3)

150k miles on mine 01 ex, 125k miles on my sisters 03 ex, and 170k miles on my friends 03ex. all stock starters.

and your longer cranks arnt always the problem on cold mornings.

its your battery's abilitiy to deliver power. check the CCA rating on your battery (cold cranking amp) and also see how old it is.

i have a 750CCA battery. no problems starting from sub zero temps.

mikey1

05 240,000km no problems

tipnitty

I'm at 130k, I don't believe it was replaced before I bought it.

TopBMXer

150,000 original starter, still works mint

SlimRisk

88,000 miles I've got the original

rjones7755

Also 88k on the original. Like sl33py said, it's your battery.

Aetoc

iTrader: (1)

260,000KM on the original and it still works great.

TiggerDX

iTrader: (1)

'94 with 116K miles original starter.

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

1485xx miles, original starter

Civicnoobie

How do you check the CCA rating? where on the battery will it say?

My battery is an interstate brand and only 1 year old. My old battery died last winter and had to get the car boosted to the store to get a new one put in. Is it a lot of wear on the engine when

when i say the car in colder weather takes a bit longer to start, only likw 1-2 secs tops. I plug in the car and no problems.

ezone

A truly cheapazz battery won't say it at all. Anything better than cheapazz should have the info on a label somewhere.LOLWUT?
Has everything to do with fuel qualities and temps. And cranking speed.
You warm the block up, it is easier to light the fuel. Simple.

Have you actually used a stopwatch to time this? You should. I bet it will really be only a couple extra crankshaft revolutions.

1-2 seconds can seem like an eternity when you are praying the car will start.

15 seconds of cranking would be a long time.

Typical starter has no clue how many miles the car has on it.
Typical starter life might be measured by how many starts (cranking events) it has made, not miles traveled.
If you total your car every 30,000 miles, the starter lasts the life of the car.
Your car has a totaled title, right?



My '12 Civic, replaced starter at under 1000 miles.



Sure you can.
I wouldn't bother.
It either works right or it doesn't.
If it works correctly right now, it will pass every test you can throw at it.
The typical way these starters fail is to just not crank.
No warning.
The solenoid only clicks.
You cannot predict when this could happen.
Bad contacts in the solenoid causes this.
Tap it with a hammer and it goes again.
Twist the key fifty times and it probably will go again too. At least once.
THEN fix it ASAP.

Now you put on a cheapazz starter from DangerZone.
Or some other cheapazz parts store.
Now you can expect it to leave you stranded once a year, just after the warranty ran out.
Cuz that's what cheapazz electrical parts do.


I would have tried to replace just the solenoid, if possible.




My old Buick, put a solenoid on the starter about 7 years ago. I put a set of brushes in it about 2 years ago. 23(?) years old now, still has original Delco-Remy starter.

scooty

Starters on there cars are pretty easy to replace. I wouldn't even worry about preventative starter maintenance. Especially if you have a 5spd.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

+1 it depends on starter usage and how long you let it turn each time. you can fry one in a minute if you wanted to. never let a starter turn more than 10 secs because it will overheat. im still on original, with normal amount of starts whatever that means. no delivery or no long distance. i have a 310 cca motorcycle battery and car starts the same winter or summer. 3 cranks and starts up first try almost every time. i just leave the key in ON for a second or two to build fuel pressure and let the immobilizer catch up. if you turn the key from off to start right away, it will prolly take 4 cranks instead of 3. not a huge deal but the shorter the better for me.

Civicnoobie

I thought Interstate batterys were supposed to be good? Theyre not?

Ok 1-2 secs to start I may be exxagerating a bit, but in cold weather you can definitely tell it takes a tiny bit longer to start than if the car was hot and been running. But I should mention, this is not all the time, just happens sometimes. Theres still a lot of times in colder weather where it starts right away, no different than in warm weather where the car starts pretty much instantly from when the key turns all the way.

Anything temp lower than 0 and I plug in the car anyways.

Yes but what would that have to do with it?

Civicnoobie

Interesting, I was told about this too from someone a while ago, saying how when starting a car, its better to first turn the key 1 crank, leave in there for 1sec, then start the car by turning the next 3 cranks. I dont know if this is true, but he said it had something to do with it being less strain on the starter and immobilizer system.

ezone

You just haven't found the label. Or there are different specs on it (CA, DIN, JIS)
Or it's missing.
It started life with a label.
You're paranoid.
Just using your car as the example. Implying that your cars' life was written off already, long ago, by an insurance company.
And poking you with a pointy stick.

sl33pyriceboi

iTrader: (3)

paranoid? civicnoobie?! what?!

ezone

Was my comment not P.C. enough?

I see he's up to 4 brown spots on the rating system now too.
"It takes a lot of gold stars to cover up a brown spot."

lowlife9

150,000 on original starter there are only like 3 battery manufacturers that make 90% of car batteries Delphi, Exide and Johnson Controls Industries. Delphi makes some EverStart models sold in Walmart and ACDelco. Johnson Control Industries makes Duralast seen in Autozone stores, Diehard - sold in Sears, Kirkland - the Costco brand, Motorcraft - which Ford sells, some of the EverStarts, and Interstate. Exide makes Exide batteries, Champion, Napa and even a % of the EverStart batteries.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

wow, you didnt get that at all. i said turn the car to ON position where the warning lights come on for a few seconds, before turning the key to START position.

Civicnoobie

How did you get a 750CCA battery? Mine is 498CCA. Is that bad? I asked the place where i bought my battery (Cause its still under warranty) if they had any 750CCA batteries and the guy said no way, thats too high, the most youll find is 500CCA tops. OEM is like 400 or less.

Did a test with the volt meter and showed as 498CCA.

I dont think its my battery. Other possibilities

- clogged fuel filter
- o2 sensor
- starter
- starter solenoid

Should i get my starter tested as the next step?

mikey1

500CCA is fine,

this thread is so long and off topic i forget what your problem is, Lol

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

my battery is 310 cca and starts the car right up below freezing.

mikey1

to be honest i have no idea what my batteries CCA is,

if it starts the car im happy, it has been doing so for the past 4 years, and i live in a VERY cold climate in the winter,

dont stress about numbers,

Civicnoobie

My car stutters for 1-2secs when cold starting in temps below 0C. On hot car, starts fine in below 0 temps. Yesterday, even plugged in the car for 3hrs and still stuttered at cold start in -3 temp.

When it stutters, sounds delayed and bit rough.

I wonder if my fuel filter is clogged.

I wonder if any chance my battery is defective. But the place said they wont swap it out unless it has a low reading with the volt meter.

mikey1

your battery only has one job, that is to provide power during startup/turn your starter motor, after startup all your power is coming from your alternator,

if the battery has enough power to turn your starter motor, the battery is fine

Civicnoobie

did full load battery test. Numbers were very good, lots power supplied and cant have batt replaced cause its not bad haha.

Was told it could be my new oil cause i switched from full syn Mobil 1 5W30 to Castrol high milage Syn blend 5W30 two weeks ago.

I guess having remote starter is probably more bad than good for the car. Not that it matters in this case, but considering i plugged in the car and it made no difference makes me think its the new oil im using. Just the fact ive gone to a thicker oil again.

I try not to use remote start when i can, plus mine is a POS anyways with shitty range.

Was told to hold the accelerator down half way before starting, then slowly release after started. Ill try that. Cause when a car stutters on start up i was told it puts a lot of wear on the engine, battery, and starter

Today when i started it (with car pluged for 3hrs), turn the ignition all the way and there was literally no response for 2 secs and sounded like a dying cat, then 3rd second it started to start and started fully by the 4th.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

that oil wont cause anything different to happen.

Civicnoobie

Im gonna get the starter tested tommorow.

or maybe bad battery cables?

I checked the terminals and no corrosion.

And wanted to check the water level in my battery but i think it may be dry cell cause i look for any caps to pull up and i dont see any. Does our car run dry cell batterys?