Bohater

01 Civic Dx Auto Tranny


I recently took my car to a family mechanic to get it checked out because I noticed when the car changed gears(Auto tranny) it sometimes had a hard clunk to it but that problem has diminished after i did a drain and fill with tranny fluid. However before the fluid maintenance he told me that I needed a new tranny.

The problem that occurred yesterday was that I was driving on the highway and when I took and exit, stopped at a light and wanted to accelerate again, the car looked like it went into 1st gear; it did start moving but then when I put my foot down more the car started shaking and didnt change gears, the motor was revving up but i was still going the same speed limit.

I have noticed that this only happens after I've been driving the car for a while, it never happens in the morning after the car has been off for 7+ hours. Its usually mid day after its been running for a while.

The car completely stopped on me, however the tranny isnt blown, yesterday i was about a mile from my house when my car wouldnt accelerate, the motor was revving up but the car just started slowing down. And I noticed the check engine light go on. I dont know what thats indicating, and whether I need a new tranny or not.

I drove it this morning to check if the problem persists, and like I said before it drives like normal again on a first run in the morning after its been off for a good 7+ hours.

I dont know what is wrong with the car, whether its a new tranny or something else. Its weird to me that the car runs normal in the morning but after a good 3 hours of driving it starts going haywire. Also im baffled at what the check engine light would turn on for in this incident.

Anyone know whats happening or have experienced this before?

ezone

Get the CEL checked, have the code(s) read.
I bet they will be P07xx, trans related codes.


Sounds like it is time for a transmission.

palsana

I have the very same problem with my 03 civic ex car and i found that my motor mount (rubberized) was totally broken!!!!!. You say
I took an exit, stopped at a light and wanted to accelerate again, the car looked like it went into 1st gear; it did start moving but then when I put my foot down more the car started shaking and didnt change gears, the motor was revving up but i was still going the same speed limit. .
I still kept on driving like that for quite sometime only to find out that i had bigger problems than just acceleration/not moving. I reached a point where my car would not move at all, the car would overheat but not exactly noticable (the radiator cap fluid/reservoir fluid would be near empty.).
I bet you if its shaking/vibrating that it has to be motor mounts for sure. fix it first.Use, energysuspension mounts if available. they r the best. then get a drain/fill using Valvoline MaxDerc ATF.
I have tried driving it after the motor mount and i still have the same problem with the transmission.
Per your symptoms:
this only happens after I've been driving the car for a while, it never happens in the morning after the car has been off for 7+ hours. Its usually mid day after its been running for a while.i was about a mile from my house when my car wouldnt accelerate, the motor was revving up but the car just started slowing down. And I noticed the check engine light go on.

I do happen to have the exact same issues/problems happening with my car and if check engine light is showing P0730 then its best to take it to a reputable "TRANSMISSION SHOP" and have it checked for "SHIFT CONTROL SOLENOID" not anything else. (shift control solenoid is on the outer side of Tranny housing).

I think you & i having the very same problem/issues can work together to solve it.
How long has it been since your last check on
1.cleaning fuel filter/fuel pressure regulator cleaning.
2. Oxygen Sensors
3. IAC valve/Throttle Body clean

First let me know what your cel says may be its a direction to follow. Take it to nearby Autozone and have them print you out all codes on CEL.

Bohater

"How long has it been since your last check on
1.cleaning fuel filter/fuel pressure regulator cleaning.
2. Oxygen Sensors
3. IAC valve/Throttle Body clean"

I dont know as it was bought 2 months ago.

palsana, I used CarMd and got the codes p0730 which you said to look out for, and also a P1298 which Im not sure what that is but as you said if i did get the p0730 that means I should get the shift control selonoid checked out, correct?

ezone

P0730, combined with a drastic trans problem: It needs a transmission. It would get a factory reman in our shop here.

P1298, ELD is bad. Read: http://www.crvownersclub.com/TSBs/2005/05-006.pdf
Common issue.

palsana

well pay someone for a good diagnostic on the p0730 code and google also p0730 code. Understand exactly where it leads you to!!!!!!.
ezone is right about a transmission problem however, i am betting right now for shift solenoid, for i just had a re-built some 12k mi ago. even before shift solenoid, i will have transmission fluid change/drain then drive around and then shift solenoid and then major repairs.
also if it ends up that a transmission is a serious problem, i would replace the whole transmission with a USED ONE WITH LOW MILES. ($500-$650 + $200-$350 in installation/repairs/supply).
Not ever go into a re-built again!!!!!!!!..
just my own opinion.

palsana

Start with draining the ATF through a filter and check for metal debris or excessive clutch material. If it's excessive, ok, may need a new transmission. If it's not, just replace the ATF. You'll need to have a shop check the 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th clutch pressure. If it's not to spec, you've got some major work to do. If they are to spec, replace the shift solenoid valves A and B, and the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves.

palsana

I GOOGLED P0730 code and this is what i found?

P0730: Problem in Shift Control System
1. Check for other codes in addition to P0730. Are there other codes indicated?
Yes - Troubleshoot and repair the cause(s) for the other code(s), then proceed.
No - Go to step 2.
NOTE: Do not continue with this procedure until you've resolved the cause of the other code(s).
2. Drain the ATF through a strainer. Inspect the strainer for metal debris or excessive clutch material.
Does the strainer contain metal debris or excessive clutch material?
Yes - Replace (or rebuild) the transmission.
No - Replace the ATF, then go to step 3.
3. Measure the 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th clutch pressure. (you'll need a shop to do this, unless you have a Helm's manual and the proper tools). Is each clutch pressure within the service limit?
Yes - Go to step 4
No - Repair the hydraulic system or replace the transmission.
4. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
5. Replace shift solenoid valve A and B. (again, you'll need a manual and tools, or take it to a shop)
6. Replace the A/T clutch pressure solenoid valve A and B. (again, manual and tools, or shop)
7. Turn the ignition switch ON and clear the code with a scan tool, or, remove fuse #6 from the under-hood fuse box. Wait a minute, then reinstall. (this also resets the ECU)
8. Using the scan tool, check to be sure that the engine coolant temperature is 176 degrees or above. If the coolant temperature is low, warm up the engine until the radiator fan comes on.
9. Drive the vehicle at speeds over 12 MPH in 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gears in the D position for more than 30 seconds.
10. Recheck for code P0730.
Does P0730 come up again?
Yes - Replace (or rebuild) the transmission.
No - Intermittent issue, the system is okay at this time.

ezone

You didn't Google enough:
http://honda-tech.com/showpost.php?p...9&postcount=11

palsana

wow you got there before i did ezone. wht can i say? proof is in the pudding..here's the exact thread

http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2907621

with the exact OP problem? no solutions to it just yet though...lol

you r good ezone.!!!!!!!!!!!!!

palsana

Heres one no good but worth mentioning if p0730 &/or 03 civic A/T on your car. a bulletin directly from Honda regarding p0730


http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2151750

Bohater

Alright well this is a transmission problem, what do you guys suggest? Rebuild the tranny or put in a used one? Pros cons? Im getting a warranty with the rebuild, the rebuild being about 500 dollars more. However if a tranny shop puts a used one in then it could have low miles on it and be a good one but if it breaks then im screwed. Suggestions?

palsana

Its a very personal choice. Just getting extra warranty doesn't gurantee anything. I had an extended warranty from Honda Dealership and i was at the door of that dealership when i had 99,997 mi for a 100k mi warranty and the service advisor came upto me and told me that company covering your warranty went bankrupt!!!!.They wanted to give me a run-around. You are better off finding a Honda service Bulletin and picking up the number to Honda customer care and get a GOODWILL agreement from Honda versus carrying a warranty and find yourself stuck.
I have had 1 y/12k mi warranty on that re-built & guess when exactly the transmission started having problems. exactly after 12,100mi.
so dont bet so much on the warranty, bet on the shop/mechanic who is gonna do the trans work!!!!!!!!..can you count on him to be there should there ever a need arise to look at tranny again even if out of warranty mileages. thats spending an extra $$$ worth everything.

palsana

I am told there is an association that most transmission shops belong to, that certifies good transmission shop. I am not exactly sure of their name, but you may want to look at it and ask them if they are certified or belong to that association.

palsana

You never explained how serious of a tranny problem it is Bohater!!!!!!!.. did you get a diagnostic? did you also do all other things before concluding its a tranny!!!!!!..
That p0730 code is something you do only after other codes that you have has been taken care of!!!! You do have another code showing right? what did you do about it?
As of now, i just wouldn't jump to conclusions on tranny without having all aspects/facts about whether a tranny needs to be worked on.

I plan on working on Fuel pump filter/strainer!!!!!!. if i succeed at getting my car to accelerate/run i would know transmission was not the issue.

Bohater

The other code is a P1298, I checked today and their are no blown fuses so I'll most likely have to buy a new ELD and install. As for the tranny, i did a drain and fill a couple weeks ago and it ran fine until now. This is the first time the CEL turned on. The P0730 stands for incorrect gear ratio(what the shop told me, and google told me), so Im not 100% sure on what to do with that just yet. My mechanic is a family mechanic, so its not like some stranger. My whole family goes to him with car troubles. So he also would give me a good deal on whatever i decide to do with the tranny. He tells me I need a new one. (Used) but you know what i mean.

palsana

You said in your own OP:
The car completely stopped on me, however the tranny isnt blown, yesterday i was about a mile from my house when my car wouldnt accelerate, the motor was revving up but the car just started slowing down. And I noticed the check engine light go on. I dont know what thats indicating, and whether I need a new tranny or not.


Now that you have done a tranny drain/fill already, the next thing to check would be a fuel filter/strainer change see if that would help. Fuel pump is usually located inside the car underneath the middle of the backseat!!!!!Seat would have to be taken out. It may also very well be in the TRUNK (4dr cars). The fuel filter/strainer is from Beck Arnely & costs nearly $30 from Autozone, Advanced Auto or so?
YOur family mechanic may be be able to do it quickly and for cheap!!!!. Most lack of acceleration, idle problems or shifting problems (without overheating) are known to be solved by working on fuel filter also. While at it cleanup on the inside of the Fuel Pressure Regulator where there is a small strainer that also needs cleaning.
Please report back to me so we can all learn if the problem of p0730 is strictly transmission or not!!!!!

Once all this is determined, its when it is best to conclude that having tried everything and having done the p1298 code work and cleared it thru CEL that the only conclusion to reach is to say " its gotta be the tranny".

That would be my conclusion as well.