Energizedmortal

A month ago I did the valve cover gasket, spark plugs timing belt, water pump, ac and ps belt . 155,000 miles automatic transmission. New battery, starter and alternator were all taken in and passed at autozone today. But it still needs to be jump started or it won't start. Basically it will crank and start effortlessly within minutes if jump started every time and runs great with no problems. As soon as I turn it off and try to turn it back on nothing happens meaning complete silence no click no crank and radio goes blank when trying to start even though cluster lights and electronics work. I get no check engine light nor codes. Grounds look good, alternator fuse (4) is good, main fuses under the hood are also good. Where do I go next? Can it be crankshaft position sensor? If so can I remove the csp sensor without removing timing belt? Thanks in advance for any suggestions. One clue I recently found is that battery is 12.4 with car off and only running at 12 volts with car on even though alternator is brand new (did the same with old alternator that passed test at autozone).

ezone

Assuming you attached your jumper cables right to the battery cables:

Either you have poor connections between the cables and the battery posts,



or the battery is JUNK. I bet it is JUNK.

No matter what DangerZone says.
Their hand-held electronic battery tester gizmo can't test all the different ways a battery can fail.
Period.
An old school Carbon-Pile Load Test would prove it.

Grab a good battery out of another car, that would prove it too.

HTH

Energizedmortal

bump

palsana

My Duralast battery from DANGER ZONE lasts just a few days past its warranty, if no repair work is completed!!!!!!!!...
If repair work is done it will altogether stop. I have had instances where the connections were all thoroughly checked to the battery/alternator/starter and the car still wouldn't start!!!!!!.I had valve cover gasket and motor mounts recently installed, waited for like 10+ hours before cranking it up and the car just wont start.
You can smell the fuel inside the hood and its not going very well.
What can i check for to get my car started?

Energizedmortal

I swapped with a good battery and it still will not start. Will try ignition switch next and clean up all grounds.

Energizedmortal

Replaced positive terminal clamp. Replaced negative battery cable and engine ground by radiator. Car fires right up now. Honda did their headlight switch and SRS recall on it yesterday. Now the abs light is on... never ends. Shorted pins 5 and 9 on OBD II abs code is 54 main relay stuck off...anyone fix this before?

ezone

Bad connections. Nice.



Clear the code, see if it comes back. THEN worry about it.

Lots of codes can be set all over the car when the battery voltage is low. Clear them first.
Then see what happens.

HTH

Energizedmortal

I cleared the code. When I turned the car on it remained off but as soon as I pressed the brakes to shift it came on. Ezone thanks for your help.

Anyone fix a ABS code 5 long 4 short main relay stuck off before? ABS fuses 11, 10 and 8 are good.

ezone

Oh, this diag is short and sweet.
Code 54
The ABS controller thinks that there is no 12v+ at the grn/wht wire (HOT at all times).
Either this is true, or the ABS controller is bad.

1) Check #8 (20A) fuse in the engine compartment. (Is there Battery voltage there?)
Fuse OK, (Yes)
2) Disconnect the ABS unit connector
3) Measure voltage between ABS connector terminal 18 (wht/grn) and body ground. Is there battery voltage?
(YES) Replace the ABS Modulator-control unit
(NO) Repair open circuit between fuse #8 and the ABS unit.


HTH

Energizedmortal

Ezone you know your stuff thanks again

Energizedmortal

Turns out that the ground bolt in slot 18 fuse box under the hood was not tight. Upon tightening abs code is gone, horn works, hazards and brake lights work again.