m3gach33zy

So I've got this squeaky noise at idle. Sometimes its really really loud and squeaky and sometimes its barely noticeable. In the first video I've gotta rev it a little to get the squeaky noise to start and I try to get different angles so you guys can hear it. The 2nd video I'm in a drive-thru and you can hear it over the traffic like 15 ft away.

[autostream]http://autostream.com/ibcivicforums/?page_type=firebirdplayerthumbnail&framepage=1249& transactionid=1336432134-9824611051&posted_by=m3gach33zy_www.civicforums.co m&youtube_video_id=rNeSgtoZsi8[/autostream]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DATk2sBaeiU

I assume it's nothing alarming or in need of immediate attention, but if there is somewhere I can throw some grease down to solve the problem that'd be nice.

lowlife9

sounds like your going to have to replace the hamsters that power your honda. or just tighten your belts.

ezone

You have to figure out what it is first, right?
Dribble water on it the belts.
If the noise changes, then you know it is belt related.
Then decide what to do.

HTH

m3gach33zy

Just went out and dribbled some water on the belts; no change. What else can I try? or where should I be looking now?

ezone

How much was a dribble?
I meant enough to soak them, but not get the rest of the engine compartment soaked.
Water usually only changes a noise for a few seconds, and you had to have it chirping good at the time you got it wet.


Remove the belts, see if the noise is gone?

Sure sounded like a belt noise to me.


HTH

How would a blind person locate the source of the noise?

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

^ A blind person would probably stick their hand in there and lose at least 1 finger.

m3gach33zy

Dropped about 1/4 cup of water on em. I only dripped it on the top of the belt cause idk if I should be splashing water on engine components lol. I drove around for 5 minutes to warm up the squeak and tried again to no avail.

I'll have to tackle taking the belts off when I don't have classes. I'm assuming it's a troublesome job to do?

Funny enough that's how I am trying to diagnose my squeak. Eyes closed; ears open and listening. To me it sounds like it's in the alternator belt area if that helps.

ezone

Dropped about 1/4 cup of water on em. I only dripped it on the top of the belt cause idk if I should be splashing water on engine components lol.

You really aren't going to hurt it. You could have used a garden hose in there.

Just getting the smooth side of the belt wet isn't doing anything.

You needed to get the water into the grooved side of the belts, where all the contact with the pulleys happens.



I'm assuming it's a troublesome job to do?

Not for me.
Try tightening it first if it is loose, that is easier than removing it.


To me it sounds like it's in the alternator belt area if that helps.

Then it probably is that belt, not the PS belt. The alt and the AC both use the same belt.


HTH

sl33pyriceboi

iTrader: (3)

you can spray the belt and where it makes contact with WD40.....or you can buy an actual belt conditioner spray and clean/spray it the proper way.

m3gach33zy

I'll have to try the water all over the belts when I get home later thanks.

Well hopefully it just needs to be tightened I really don't wanna pull my car apart this weekend lol

Is WD40 okay to use on the belts? I've got a can of white lithium grease if that'd be better?

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

Lithium grease is longer lasting I wouldn't use it on the belt. To be honest go buy some "Belt Dressing" from the auto parts store and use that. It's a good thing to have around.

m3gach33zy

Thanks. I'll work pick up the belt dressing tomorrow and get to work on this. Thanks for all the help so far guys.

sl33pyriceboi

iTrader: (3)

no. WD40 will clean the stuff on the belt, and evaporate (thats what its suppose to do). WD40 is not a greaser/lubricant in the same sense that lithium grease or any other kinda synthetic grease is.


but as others have said, belt dressing is the best.

04 Honda Civic

iTrader: (2)

If the belt dressing works. And the noise goes away, you should still probably change the belt. In my opinion that stuff is just a band aid to a bad belt.

m3gach33zy

Ah, I could've swore that I read somewhere that WD40 is corrosive to rubber materials, but apparently not lol.

I see. I'm running about 65k miles now, so I was thinking I'd just get all the fluids and belts changed in the next few months. Thanks for the advice.

Sadly, there is a new noise that I need some help with and I'm sure it's coming from my exhaust. When I shift there's some kinda popping sound. I'll get a sound clip on it sometime soon. Anyone know where it'd be coming from? Maybe I tightened my bolts too tight?

sl33pyriceboi

iTrader: (3)

its not. the motorcycle community uses it to clean chains with rubber O-rings since its inception....theyve done countless lab tests on it and it doesnt swell, shrink or damage rubber =]

m3gach33zy

Well after checking all the belts and using the belt dressing, that super squeaky noise is gone, but now I have another squeak.

The connection between my header and downpipe isn't totally secure. http://db.tt/ndf2dMlC

You can see there is some black soot crap that's leaking out of the side there. I've tried tightening that bolt with every ounce of strength I've got, but I can't get it to turn anymore. Any ideas? Maybe get some kind of sealer to seal the gap there and call it good?

m3gach33zy

Also, the pipe that comes after the down pipe (forgot what it's called lol) sits up so high that when I start/drive my car the pipe vibrates on the floor of the car. I stuffed a towel above the pipe, between the floor of the car and zip tied them to the pipe. Question is, will this lead to problems down the road? Maybe start some kind of fire??

04 Honda Civic

iTrader: (2)

Probably best to fix it the correct way.

Buy an OEM pipe, or a quality one made for your car.

lowlife9

maybe use some spring bolts.

m3gach33zy

The pipes are DC sport pipes so the quality should be there..

I'll try tightening it some more, but if it fails I'll give that a try thanks!

ezone

Um, somebody is missing something.....


Are both of the flat mating surfaces FLAT? Make them flat. Check for cracks while it is apart.
Is the gasket missing? Get one. If it is already in there, it's blown out. Get another.
If the flanges are warped, that can allow the next gasket to blow out too.

Is there a shoulder on the bolt that is keeping the nut from threading all the way up, or making the nut bottom out before it can clamp the flanges?

Springs and long bolts won't help, this type of joint is not made to flex at all.

OTOH, there IS supposed to be a flexible joint (or flex pipe, or coupler) somewhere between the engine and the rest of the exhaust that is suspended from the body (B pipe? and back). Is there one?



The popping noise when you shift, could it be afterburn (backfire)? The exhaust leak between the pipes could be causing it.

m3gach33zy

I'm pretty sure both of the mounting surfaces are flat and I didn't notice any cracks when I bought it/put it together. I don't remember if I have a gasket in between though (don't think I got one for that specific connecting area). if I need a gasket for that part where should I buy one?

Don't know what a "shoulder" would be on a nut, but I'll look into it. I'm pretty sure it's going all the way through now that I was able to tighten it a little bit more. But there's still a little gap :'(

There is a flexable piece inbetween where the 2 o2 sensors go. I'm not sure if it's backfire.. could be cause it doesn't happen all the time?

ezone

I'm pretty sure both of the mounting surfaces are flat

It is pretty easy to warp flat plates when you start cranking on the bolts and there is heat involved, and maybe a soft gasket in between the flanges.
Your pic makes it look like these are aluminum. Aluminum is quite soft, compared to steel.
You would have to take the joint apart and use a straight edge to tell if they are really flat.

I don't remember if I have a gasket in between though (don't think I got one for that specific connecting area). if I need a gasket for that part where should I buy one?

That's a toughie now since it isn't factory.
First choice would be the place you bought the exhaust from.
I have seen both flat gaskets and "rings" on that type of flange, you really can't tell what is supposed to be there with it assembled. Your supplier should know what was supposed to be there and be able to provide you with the needed parts.

Next might be to take it apart and carry the pipes in to an exhaust shop or a well stocked parts store and see if they have anything that fits it.
Or material to fabricate a gasket.

Last resort (IMO) might be muffler joint compound. It may be the faster, simpler thing to do, but how long will it last?


Don't know what a "shoulder" would be on a nut, but I'll look into it.

I'm thinking of an unthreaded section, and it would be on the bolt.

But there's still a little gap :'(

Still a gap: The bolt won't tighten any more, or the plates aren't perfectly flat where they mate up.
Or a gasket is missing. The gasket should take up the gaps, to a certain extent.
That's all I can think of.



I'm not sure if it's backfire.. could be cause it doesn't happen all the time?

Fresh air leaks in the pipes can cause it.
I was just guessing it could be this, because you have an exhaust leak in that flange. It not only leaks exhaust out, it can also leak fresh air IN to the exhaust, usually when decelerating.


HTH

m3gach33zy

I'll probably take the header/downpipe off to inspect it. I bought this off CL so there's no hope for getting a gasket where I bought it. I just emailed DC sports to see if I can buy a gasket from them.

I think I see what you mean by "shoulder" on the bolt, I'll check it out when I take it all apart.

I didn't think fresh air could leak into such a small gap, especially since air is being forced down through the pipes lol.

Thanks for all the info there I'll be out there soon trying to fix this up!