Kevin_646

I planned to buy a repair manual today, for my 2003 Civic LX, 4 door, automatic, but the dealers don't have them, you have to order them.

The one on this site is wrong, has bad info for my car. The downloadable manual is the one that comes in 2 folders named "1" and "2" Says it's for a 2001 Civic 5-door. It looks like there is substantial variations in Civic engines for different models.

Here are the 2 major errors I found: The specified torque is wrong, too much, for the bolt for the tensioner for the timing belt. I stripped the threads and am having to spend a lot of time figuring out the right tools to drill it out and buy a “heli-coil” replacement threads.

It also says to turn the engine clockwise, page 6-9, and that’s wrong, for my car.

I found another downloadable service manual for 2002 Civic Hatchback, in PDF, 23 chapters.
It explains how to remove the Cam Chain on page 6-10, so that’s wrong for me.

Here is my question: Can someone tell me the correct torque to tighten bolts in 5 places? Does someone have the correct service manual for 03 Civic LX 4 door and would be willing to look up these numbers? I'm changing the timing belt and want to put it back together this weekend and would like to tighten the bolts correctly.

1. What is the correct torque to tighten the tensioner for the timing belt? (wrong: says 36 lb/ft)

2. Driver side engine mount bolts: side bolt; one manual says: 12.7 lb/ft;
the other says: 33 lbf/ft
b. top nuts for engine mount, manual says: 40 lb/ft (What does yours say?)

2. Timing covers: Says 5.4 lb/ft

3. Valve covers: 7.2 lb/ft (What does yours say?)

4. Crankshaft pulley bolt: 181 lb/ft (Is this correct for my car?)


Also, has anyone seen the correct manual online for 2003 Civic LX 4 door? I'm also willing to buy it, just want to finish my project now.

Thank you,
Kevin

04 Honda Civic

iTrader: (2)

I suspect your torque wrench is off, or you dont know its limits or maybe both. However many people dont know how to corectly use a torque wrench and also that their are limits to a torque wrench.

First thing, you can not use a torque wrench on a nut that is already tight. This means you can not use it to "check" the torque of a bolt you must loosen it first.

Second thing, a torque wrench, over time looses its percision and needs to be calibrated.

Lastly, and probably most important is that you need to use the correct drive for your aplication. Basically you can NOT use a 1/2 inch drive torque wrench to tighten many of the things you listed above. You more then likely need a 1/4 or 3/8. When you use a torque wrench you want to try to be towards the middle of its range.

What does that mean? If a torque wrench goes to 150 ft/lb of torque you probably dont want to use it on a bolt that you need to tighten to 15 ft/lb as the torque you will be applying WILL be higher.

All of the bolts you listed above torque can be done by "feel" this comes with time and experience. The only bolt that would be a good idea to use a torque wrench on would be the crank shaft pully bolt. However if you tighten the **** out of it, it should be suffice. Good luck.

*P.S. I have snapped bolts off an oil pan set to the correct torque using a 1/2 inch torque wrench.*

ezone

I planned to buy a repair manual today, for my 2003 Civic LX, 4 door, automatic, but the dealers don't have them, you have to order them.

So order one.Pretty simple.



The one on this site is wrong, has bad info for my car.

The info is most likely correct. You didn't get the manual for YOUR car.



The downloadable manual is the one that comes in 2 folders named "1" and "2" Says it's for a 2001 Civic 5-door. It looks like there is substantial variations in Civic engines for different models.

Honda builds different versions of cars for different markets.
Most manufacturers operate this way.


Here are the 2 major errors I found: The specified torque is wrong, too much, for the bolt for the tensioner for the timing belt. I stripped the threads

Not the fault of the book, since it isn't for your car at all.

Most seasoned professionals can tell if something isn't right. (Not all though, some rely ONLY on the book and never learn to think for themselves.)

It also says to turn the engine clockwise, page 6-9, and that%u2019s wrong, for my car.

If this was your first clue that the book wasn't right, why did you keep using it?


I found another downloadable service manual for 2002 Civic Hatchback, in PDF, 23 chapters.
It explains how to remove the Cam Chain on page 6-10, so that’s wrong for me.

The 3 door USA car is an Si and uses a timing chain. This is perfect if you have this car.

Not your car?
Don't use the manual, stupid.
Try again. See how many more free wrong manuals you can find.
----------------------------------------------------------------

I thought of something to put here, then promptly forgot it.


Oh yeah.
A quote that relates to tightening fasteners.

"Too loose is too loose, and too tight can be too loose too."

If this isn't common sense, you aren't a wrench.


All the stuff that 04Civic dude posted about torquing is truth.

My torque wrenches only come out for certain occasions and critical applications. I use feel, finesse, and common sense.

I also have a ton of experience, and I have stripped and broken plenty of stuff to gain that experience. I also have the tools and ability to fix most anything I screw up if it happens. You learn much faster when you have to fix your own screw ups.
----------------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------------------------------------


1. What is the correct torque to tighten the tensioner for the timing belt? (wrong: says 36 lb/ft)

One grunt with a box end wrench.

Actually, it's darn close.
tensioner mounting bolt (A) to 44 Nm (4.5 kgf/m, 33 lb/ft),

The spec difference didn't cause you to strip it out. That's on YOU.



2. Driver side engine mount bolts: side bolt; one manual says: 12.7 lb/ft;
the other says: 33 lbf/ft
b. top nuts for engine mount, manual says: 40 lb/ft (What does yours say?)

1/2 impact on the big ones, 3/8 impact on the small ones. 3/8 air ratchet on everything else an impact gun won't fit on.

I dunno. Use some common sense.

Ok, 33 ft/lb on the aluminum bracket that bolts to the block with 5 bolts.
I sure hope you don't get the bolts mixed up.
The 3 on the front are different lengths.

Big nuts are 40.

2. Timing covers: Says 5.4 lb/ft

1/4 drive air ratchet.

Sounds close enough.

Actually it's 7.2.

3. Valve covers: 7.2 lb/ft (What does yours say?)

Run in with air ratchet.

Tighten by hand until the bolt hits solid bottom and STOP.

7.2


4. Crankshaft pulley bolt: 181 lb/ft (Is this correct for my car?) 1/2 inch impact.
There have been multiple spec revisions.

Newest info says 148 ft-lb on the crank pulley bolt.
Oil the threads and washer before installation.

Also, has anyone seen the correct manual online for 2003 Civic LX 4 door? I'm also willing to buy it, just want to finish my project now.
Just order a correct one.

Rodrigo

I have had to repair my mistakes. ezone is right. that experience is the best teacher.

Knowing the sequence in which bolts should be tightened is sometimes more important than knowing the torque value. I only use my torque wrench for special occasions also, but I make sure to be aware of what the value should be. Usually I divide torque values into three categories: 1) snug, 2) tight or 3) killer tight -- and then I go from there.

If you're bolting into aluminum, you really have to be aware of the feel of the thing (snug to tight). Steel bolt into steel hole (like crank pulley) gets the killer tight treatment.

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

your car have 4 doors... a 5 door is a hatch... engine could be K-series...
Also, for lower torque, use the bar type, not the click (they are not sensitive enough, or need one with smaller range - my water pump bolts woukld have thanked that move, but living and learning for me)