DarkSouljur

Alright so since my money is VERY tight right now i've been thinking i might try to replace my own clutch when the time comes. This way i'll save a lot of money and i might actually be able to get a lightweight flywheel with the money i'm saving. Now i've found a DIY on this site but i wanted to know if this is a job that i could actually do myself or not, just because i don't really have much experience with engine / mechanic components. Opinions?

Edit: On a side note, i'm probably going to be getting my clutch from eBay, which seems to have the lowest price for an exedy stage 1 that i can find. I came across this page, http://www.ebay.ca/itm/EXEDY-STAGE-1...item1e69bf80a0 Is that a good deal or no?

mikey1

no !

DarkSouljur

Haha yeah i was thinking the same thing but i thought i'd ask anyways

mikey1

a clutch is not a job for a beginner

Aetoc

iTrader: (1)

That may be true, but I have a serious diy mentality about these things, and I'd likely try it myself first, and only resort to paid labour if I mess it up....I mean as long as you have the right tools (and for the %95, I do) and a good honda manual, anything is possible! :P

But still, if you are unsure about anything... definitely leave it to a pro lol

CrewChief

iTrader: (1)

If you do decide to go through with it. Here are some thing to remember.

1. You are going to have to remove 3of 4 motor mounts so you will need some way of supporting the motor.
2. When removing the axles the axle nut is on very tight. Have a good breaker bar and be patient.
3. you will probibly tear the lower control are boot when removing the hub from the control are to remove the axle.
4. Torque everything to OEM specs
5. aligning the Tranny to the motor can be a bitch. Take your time and be easy with it. You dont want to bend the clutch plate
6. easy way to fill the tranny back up is to open the shift linkage and pour in from there. Filling from the fillhole can be a pain if your not on perfect level ground. 3qts or 10w30 synth motor oil is the best I've found to fill it with. I use moble one and have had no problems since I bought the car in 2002. And I put mine through hell.

I dont know the extent of stuff you have dont under the hood but it is eaier to remove the water thermo housing from the side of the motor to get to the bolts. I always pull my motor when I do tranny work cause in the long run its eaier and faster but then again I have had my motor in and out so many time I can do it in 4 hours.

Be patient and have a friend with you. You will need them to help you get the tranny out and in.

Oh and last thing get the car as high in the air as you can. You will have to tilt the motor down to get the tranny out and it makes it eaier to get in if you have the clearance to get under it.

sl33pyriceboi

iTrader: (3)

^holy chit. Now there's a legendary name

DarkSouljur

Thanks for all that info... looks like a lot of work, and i dont know if i can get everything i need for a job like that.

this is the thread i was reading: https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...h-install.html

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

You can do it man.... Just take your time, be patient, have a manual, rent some tools... its easy.

CrewChief

iTrader: (1)

LOL. I troll the site from time to time. Nice to see i'm not the only OG around still.

sl33pyriceboi

iTrader: (3)

i am humbled an '02 refered me to as OG (even tho i made it in 6 months before 7thgencivic turned)

03civict

I'd say go for it. nothing ventured, nothing gained.

Rodrigo

^ +1 on "nothing ventured, nothing gained"

Have you started yet? The OP was two weeks ago.

Get a manual. Study the procedure in depth beforehand. Take your time and stay organized. Bag up & label nuts, bolts, fittings, etc as they come off. Make notes & take pictures if you think it will help.

Great point was made earlier about making sure you can support the engine & transmission. but that is definitely doable with planning.

You can do it.

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

Hmm.... Supporting the engine? Jack, plywood... oil pan = bingo.

Renewing this to see if OP has done anything

CrewChief

iTrader: (1)

Well I guess he died in the process. lol.

lovin the ej1

im not a big fan of the light weight flywheel iv seen some stock ones pretty messed up why go to aluminum and cause more problems that the stock one could withhold just something to think about

sl33pyriceboi

iTrader: (3)

stock flywheel is 22lbs.

a higher quality aluminum's ones (from such reputable brands like fidanza) are a high strength steel in the center, and very hard aluminum (like 7075) for the chassis.

lovin the ej1

true dude but ebay cheepys ehhh idk about them

Roxie

Well, if OP still hasn't decided on whether or not to do the clutch swap on his own, I say go for it. Just have another person to help out in case you need a hand

DarkSouljur

I just might. Id have to wait at least till the snows gone which shouldnt be much longer, ill start savin up

Shift-e if u read this im gunna need ur support on this one haha

Roxie

One last bit of advice, since I just finished everything on mine last night (worked from about 10am-1130pm). Make sure that you don't cross thread your bolts on the cat converter (if you have one, as I know some people don't). I nearly did that because I wasn't careful. Take your time, or else you'll end up in the scenario I was in. It's easy to strip them. Just saying in case you haven't done exhaust work before.

DarkSouljur

I have not done exhaust work before, the biggest job ive ever done was a retrofit, the only thing ive touched in my engine bay was the intake. Im still debating on whether or not i should get a lightweight flywheel

Roxie

I'd say it depends on what you can afford. I would have put one in myself if I had the money, especially since you have to take off the flywheel to replace the pilot bearing. I think it's worth it, especially because I hate how the weight of the stock one keeps the RPMs up too long. Just remember they will drop much quicker once the new one is in, and you might have a bucking bronco for a day until you get used to it lol.

Speaking of which... reminds me of when I first learned to drive clutch. I had no idea what to do, and no one was helping me. I wasn't able to move the car an inch, because I couldn't stop laughing my *** off. People staring, me not able to pull myself together to concentrate on anything. I stayed at that stoplight the whole time it was green. That was too funny.

But back on track, I say do it if you find it something useful for you, but also if you can afford it. It's not the most necessary thing to swap out unless you're trying to squeeze every ounce of power.

sl33pyriceboi

iTrader: (3)

id never recommend a no brand ebay one... no way. lol but there are good brands on ebay for cheap (thats what i meant)

DarkSouljur

Yeah id get an exedy clutch not some no name one from ebay. Its still cheaper than buying anywhere else ive seen.

I mean if i did put in my own clutch id be saving a couple hundred. I could get a flywheel and have some left over for a new stereo

maxtierney

iTrader: (5)

You can pick up an Exedy Stage 1 and ACT Streetlite 11.9lb flywheel for under $400 from THMotorsports. I used this setup for 5 years. Bulletproof. Switching over to a Competition Clutch Stage 2 Kevlar Full Face and 8.8lb Ultra Lite Flywheel. If you're not interested 60 foot or 1/4 mile times, lightened flywheels are the way to go. They just make everything much more responsive. The engine revs so freely, it's ridiculous. Yes, there are some things that some may consider drawbacks. Stop and go drivability is different/more difficult at first, but it's just a matter of reprogramming your right foot to apply throttle a little faster and heavier to compensate for the lack of inertia. Other than that, you will appreciate the way the car responds at throttle tip in. The best analogy I can come up with is a stock setup is like running in sand or having 5lb weights strapped to your ankles. You don't realize how bogged down you are until you drop the weights or get off the beach. Night and day difference. Keep in mind, I've also removed my power steering and have a lightened crank pulley, to make things even more responsive. That's over 15lbs of dead weight off the crank. Food for thought. Good luck, bro.

Roxie

[quote=DarkSouljur]Yeah id get an exedy clutch not some no name one from ebay. Its still cheaper than buying anywhere else ive seen.[/quote}

Exedy grabs nicely

Well, depends on the cost of labor from a shop. I remember that it was about 500-600 for jut labor at a local auto shop, and it was about 400-500 from the transmission shop. I figure it's about 4-5 hours book time, that's what I've been quoted on at least. So if it's a 5hr job, you must have some cheap labor rates for it to be a couple hundred bucks! Lol

Weird... looks like the BB code doesn't like to work on this post o.O

DarkSouljur

[QUOTE=Roxie;4592159]Ur quote ended with a } when u needed a ] ... Just saying. But i like me a little grab haha

And ur right it would be like 5-600 dollars. My uncle on the other hand can do it for me much cheaper, hence the couple hundred no clue how much though

Your quote mess up screwed up my quote!

Misbah

Get your hands up in the air, I have just hijacked this thread!

How would you guys compare this job to pulling the cylinder head? I'm just about to complete that and that's probably the most 'advanced' procedure I've done. I've rebuilt brakes, installed a short shifter, and replaced all 4 motor mounts, and done shocks/struts/springs replacement - that's about the extent of my work I considered challenging (at the time I started doing them) on the civic. I didn't think the head job was hard, just tedious. But I don't know if I can do this. I just read the procedure on the DIY and the service manual and haynes manual. It seems like a hoist would be easier than maneuvering the motor with a jack. And how do I get the car that high in the air? If I could overcome those two things I would consider attempting this myself. I would like to put in an ACT HC5-SPMM and an ACT street lite flywheel, and replace that little bit of rubber line with an SS line. So in relative comparison to headgasket/timing belt change how hard is this?

Sorry to hijack but it's the same topic, didn't want to make a new thread.