sl33pyriceboi

iTrader: (3)

And guys... The difference between syn and Dino oil is the consistency of the molecules resulting in the PURITY of the oil. Also with synthetic, they do not have to add certain additives (that could do harm to ur engine) to the oil.

The molecular consistency is the biggest thing. Since every molecule is "man made" there won't be any extra cockroach crap from the refinement of dino based stock (oil). Therefore oil companies won't have to put extra additives in there. We call a true synthetic a group IV PAO oil. Remember because every molecule is man made, it results in a very expensive oil

As fOr Dino oil, there is nothing wrong with them (generally speaking). Refinement has come a LONGGGGGGG way since your father's days. Oil now a days are refined SOOOOO well that they come very very very close to the consistency of synthetic oils.

I don't know where that whole "leak from using synthetic" argument came from because if u are in America, chances are your "full synthetic oil" you bought from wallyworld is not a true synthetic. So I have a feeling that a lot of these people hear world of mouth and read that from online forums and them it becomes truth/fact when in reality there is a fallacy with the credibility of the source.

And remember, the closer the oil weights, the less additives are present (hence motorcycle oils use very close weights like. 10w40 or 20w50. And remember little bike engines have little bearings...yet they still use a heavy weight oil

sl33pyriceboi

iTrader: (3)

And one last thing... Everyone seems to buy all the name brand oils and think they are best. That is not always the case.

Take Mobil1 for examPle. Many of the guys who do an UOA report (used oil analysis) find that mobil1 starts thinning out at 3500 miles

However, oils like shell rotella t6 still hold at 5000miles (rotella t6 is a freakig amazing oil btw).

And this is all from factual data from a lab reported by those oil nuts on bitog.

pjb3

This is one of those statements that people who have no idea what thay are talking about keep repeating. The are full synthetics besides the ones you name and if you would take the time to study the different specs you would know what those oils are. By the way "the US legislature" has nothing to do with what can be called synthetic.

pjb3

Most of the leaks were attributed to older engines where varnish had built up on a surface and the oil seal had hardened. When synthetic oil cleaned the surface the oil seal would no longer seal and leaks could occur. I agree with the rest of your statement. Penzoil, Valvoline, Mobil1, Castrol and others do not publish the formula for their oils so people speculate and as you say much of it is incorrect.

You do realize that 10w-40 and 20w-50 are actually broader not closer weights and have more viscosity improvers than a 5w-30 or 20w-30 oil.

sl33pyriceboi

iTrader: (3)

by US legislature i mean the US rules on how companies can label their products.

that is why we can have a groupIII and still call it a "full synthetic"

and never mind that close number comment, had a brain fart.

kaiylepyne

The problem that most people encounter when switching a high mileage car to synthetics is due to the detergents in the synthetic oil. The conventional oil "gunk" accumulates around the gaskets and other places, often times preventing leaks. The synthetic oil begins to remove this "gunk" and things like oil pan gaskets, main seals, and valve cover gaskets beging oozing oil.

Another thing to consider is based on the year of your vehicle and the type of cam/lifter configuration. A roller cam system works fine with synthetic oil. However, with the removal of zinc from engine oil over the last few years, many flat tappet cams have been unhappy with this change. My personal opinion is that flat tappet cam engines need a zinc additive even after break in. Most synthetic oils don't contain enough zinc and arent additive friendly.

Tragedy

iTrader: (10)

Jesus, this thread is full of know it all's with useless information. Read at your own risk.