xaxixuxexo

I just came into some money so I want to get some mods in. I realize I drive a Civic so I know it's never going to be fast like a sports car, but I would still like to get some more power out of it and have it running nice. That being said.

Header: does it matter about brand, really? I am leaning towards Dc sport 4-2-1

Air intake: same question, does brand make a difference? Aem intakes are almost 300 bucks.

Will a stage 1 cam show a noticeable difference by itself, and if I change that should I go ahead and do timing belt and water pump; I received the car at 122k and have no idea if it has been changed.

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

Stage 1 cam is the only way to increase horsepower unless you get KPRO. As soon as your getting Kpro your looking at 1500+. A header and intake will make no gains whatsoever. Brand of intake also makes no difference at all. I made one for 90 bucks (Canadian) by ordering parts here and there from people. It's not AEM but it works.



If your going to get a header DC is best but Megan is a much cheaper and still quality choice. Change the timing belt and water pump if your due (100k miles) or coming up to it.

brobo

nice ride but i/h/e would get u like 20hp and the cam it selft is 15 to 20 depending on what stage but good luck

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

You will absolutely not get 20hp from intake/header and exhaust. You may get 5 at the most. In fact, you might lose horsepower. You can et 10-15 from a cam.

xaxixuxexo

Ok well if intake doesn't really matter I will go cheap, I just hate seeing all of that big bulky black plastic casing for the air filter and resonator, plus my resonator is all cracked somehow.

As for the cam, I have a honda certified buddy who loves working on hondas for free. So i'm thinking I see a day where i get a new cam, timing belt, and water pump put in =].

I am a little confused as to why a header could possibly make me lose power?

xaxixuxexo

Also, where can I buy one? I'm searching but can't find one for my car anywhere.

MindBomber

Your stock exhaust manifold is perfectly optimized to your engines performance, when you upgrade to a new header you loose a bit of back pressure and therefore you loose a couple hp in certain areas of the power band. If you read the stage 1 cam thread you'll see that a catback, midpipe, header, intake and stage 1 cam will put you around 125whp, which is very respectable. The best intake is the k&n FIPK, it out performs any other made for the d17.

For a DC - Dezod.com

For a Megan - Ebay

xaxixuxexo

And if I get the 4-2-1 Im getting the header, catback and midpipe right?
I guess part of my thinking is a header might help with an issue i'm having where sometimes my car won't go. Almost like theres too much pressure.

For example, I will push on the throttle, but my car doesn't respond at all, and it just gets slower, until I press really hard on the pedal and all the sudden it just goes.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

the other thing to consider is while these mods may increase top end hp at 6k rpms, it does nothing at lower rpms and may even cause power loss. these engines have little torque and any mod you do makes it worse. think about your daily driving. are the rpms usually below 4k? or do you redline it every time you press the gas? if you redline, then the mods might be worth it. if not, leave it stock.

xaxixuxexo

I like that. I have never even really thought of anything like that. Thank you for wisdom gearbox. Any wisdom on the issue that I am having with that bogging down ( thats the only way I can describe it)

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

sounds more like a tuneup issue like an old oxygen sensor or some other clogged sensor, or a loose throttle cable. read the forgotten tuneup diy thread and do some of that.

xaxixuxexo

Well both of my oxygen sensors are new, I replaced them this spring. I just tightened up the throttle cable like... 2 weeks ago. I mean I have checked a lot of things, I'm running out of things to check.

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

Your bogging issue could be a partially plugged up catalytic converter. Or maybe even a dirty throttle body. When is the last time you cleaned it?

xaxixuxexo

throttle body is clean, did that like 2 weeks ago.

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

It could be your catalytic converter I can't think of much else that could cause bogging.. But your cat "Should" throw a CEL.

xaxixuxexo

Sooo theoretically a 4-2-1 header would take away catalytic converter?

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

A racing header would yes... You can however get a header that does not remove the cat. I recommend keeping the catalytic converter to keep pollution down and also if your state/provice does smog/emissions test you WILL not pass without a cat. I'm not going to say that your cat is absolutely plugged... That's just a guess from probably a thousand miles away, so the value of it is limited

xaxixuxexo

no smog testing in ohio=] also I hear it gains mpg without it.

sl33pyriceboi

iTrader: (3)

i love this guy's optimism.

as long as ur butt dyno says u gained 15 to 20 hp, then you gained 15 to 20 hp.

MindBomber

Pretty sure it does, if you call or email dezod they should be able to confirm that, their customer service is second to none.

Edit: it does.

A member has/had a megan midpipe and header for sale in the marketplace not long ago, he was asking just less than $200. You might consider checking that out too.

xaxixuxexo

Okay, another thing, when or if I get that header, will I need to readjust timing? Thanks to gearboxes comment, I probably wont, but if my issue is catalytic converter I might want to. Cuz it has done that issue where it wont go when I'm in an intersection. Not a very good thing to do haha

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

the car already runs very rich in stock form. so adding a bunch of boltons will not need to be retuned.