zman4011

2001 Honda Civic EX 4cyl Auto

I need to replace my rotors and pads (front).....anyone have any recommendations as far as what brands to go with and where they got them. I also need to get a timing belt kit.....any suggestions for that would be well appreciated.

lowlife9

http://www.dezod.com/pd-dezod-motors...nomy-brake.cfm

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

I'm rocking that brake kit right now. Just installed it actually. I like it. As for timing belt, just go with Honda oem from either hondapartacheap.com or hondaautomotiveparts.com

maxtierney

iTrader: (5)

Not a well known brand, but the best street pads I've used on the EM2. Axxis Ultimate Ceramic. Good initial bite, minimal fade, no dust issues. Very rotor friendly. Australian made. I've used Hawk, EBC, Wilwood, Trust, OEM, Napa, etc. Aggressive driving will yield 12 to 15k miles before replacement.

Lopes101

I might pick that package up right now as well. Does that package come with pads and rotors for front right and front left?

MindBomber

^Email dezod and ask, they usually get back to me within an hour.

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

Yes, the package is to replace both front left and right pads/rotors

sl33pyriceboi

iTrader: (3)

i am tempted to try these or the hawk HP ceramic... when u got the axxis, were u on stock caliper set up or those massive 6 piston monsters u have?

what do you think man? ive gone through a set of HPS+ and HPS for my civic. just WAYYYYYYYYY too much dust. hate it.

Lopes101

Thanks! And you said they are decent? Not to much dust etc etc?

maxtierney

iTrader: (5)

Stock calipers. As a matter of fact, I've got a fairly new set at home. Maybe 5 or 6 months of use. Wanna try 'em out? I can mail 'em to you. Judge for yourself, before you buy a set. Hopefully they're still where I think they are.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

stock pads and rotors are best for normal driving. good combination of stopping power, low dust and noise, and life.

Lopes101

I am getting slightly lost, Would it be better to get the ones linked, or just oem stock ones?

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

i really dont know, i cant see how the linked ones would be any better in terms of brake performance. ive tried non-oem hardware before and been disappointed due to louder noise when braking and more dust.

maxtierney

iTrader: (5)

Gearbox is correct. Unless you track or cross, there is no real difference between street pads. Some have more metal content for inreased heat properties and bite characteristics. But the real differences can only be felt as the ratio increases from street to mainly street/occasional track, to track-streetable, to race only.

The pads listed on Dezod's site, and all semi-metaliic pads for that matter, provide better initial bite than ceramic, BUT this occurs at the expense of your rotors and will produce more dust.

I found some good info on brake pads below, to better illustrate my point. This is the reason I always use ceramic pads on the street.


Metallic, or carbon metallic brake pads as they are commonly referred to, have some advantages over ceramic pads, but those advantages may not be outweighed by the disadvantages. The disadvantages may all be addressed by the ceramic pads. Metallic pads have excellent heat characteristics, but tend to have other problems that make them less desirable than the ceramic version of the same pads.

Noise Characteristics

Metallic pads are noisy. Brake noise can be traced back to a harmonic vibration caused by movement of the pads due to rotor run out, and the amount of play in the brake mounting hardware.

Ceramic pads, while still affected by this vibration, raise the harmonic noise out of the range of the human ear. It's still there, but we just can't hear it anymore. The softness of the pad also helps absorb vibration much like the old organic compounds. Think of the difference in the sound of a quarter spinning on a table and a rubber washer spinning on the table.

Wear Characteristics

Metallic pads eat up rotors. The problem here is caused by the fact that metallic pads are harder than the other pad compounds. When the pad comes into contact with the rotor, the rotor will wear down along with the pads.

Ceramic pads are very soft, and only the pads wear. Because they are also more heat tolerant, they will not wear as fast as the metallic pad compounds.

Dusting Characteristics

Dust build up on your wheels is caused by the high carbon and metal content of the metallic pad. Because these materials hold static electricity, they are also drawn to the metal in the wheel and brake system, resulting in thick, black buildup.

Ceramic pad compound have no magnetic properties to draw the dust to the wheel, so it is less likely to stick. The dust is also a light gray color instead of black. Any dust that does make it onto the wheel will be less visible.

Heat Characteristics

Where the metallic pad shines is in its broad heat range. It functions properly at low temperatures as well as very high temperatures. Metallic pads do tend to hold heat, and brake fade due to fluid boiling still happens.

The ceramic pads' only weakness is low temperature efficiency. They need to be warmed a little during the first few stops. After warm up, they work well. And they don't hold heat, so they recover from a hard stop much faster, preventing fluid boiling and brake fade.

Price Difference

The bottom line is that metallic pads work well and do stop better than the semi-metallic pads. However, there are some drawbacks, and these are addressed very nicely by ceramic pads. The downside is the cost.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

that is a great reply. i guess we should ask what kind of driving he does. because street driving can be mild braking on city roads from 35mph, or highway braking from 65mph, or lots of braking in the mountains. if you are braking above 40mph or need to use the brakes more than normal, it may be worth switching to a pad that can handle more heat. ofcourse it will take longer for them to warm up, but if most braking is done at hi speeds, it shouldnt matter.

most importantly, if you do brake at hi speeds and heat up the parts a lot, you need to follow certain precautions to prevent problems like uneven pad deposits that can cause vibration. you should always let go of the pedal after a hard stop and use the ebrake to hold the car in position (and shift to N if needed for auto). keeping the brakes clamped after they are hot can cause pad transfer to the rotor and even a pad imprint which can cause vibration the next time you use the brakes (often people call this "warped rotors" but actually it is uneven pad material deposition). there are ways to remedy this but they dont always work and may require replacement of the pads and rotors. its easier not to ruin them in the first place.

pheaton

iTrader: (6)

Back to the timing belt. I wouldn't get a kit. Just find the DIY and get the Honda OEM parts. If you can afford it I would do all the optional parts too. It worked for me, it will work for you.

I would even buy the tool to remove the crank bolt, that made the task of getting that bolt off a snap. I dreaded that bolt, but with that tool and air tools I remember saying, "hrm that wasn't a big deal at all."