ATF levels. should it be between the min and max line or ON the max line?
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Hey I just did another drain and fill last Friday and checked the ATF level at the time and it was right at the max line on my ATF stick so I left it. I did another re-check just now on a hot tranny with the engine off for 1min on a flat surface and there was a tad bit too much, as there was some ATF over the Max line.
For the levels does it have to be on the max line or is it better having it half way between the max and min line?
And Is there a way I can just suck some ATF out from the fill hole or do i have to get under the car again and undo the bolt again to drain some out?
For the levels does it have to be on the max line or is it better having it half way between the max and min line?
And Is there a way I can just suck some ATF out from the fill hole or do i have to get under the car again and undo the bolt again to drain some out?
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I usually check it when the engine is warm, thats just how I was raised to check ATF lvls idk if that is the best way but whatever you do never overfill it. I think the amount per change is around 3qts I'm not positive somebody else can chime in on that.
You could drain some out if there is too much. But don't go off just one reading. Take it once or twice a day after your usual commute for a few days to get a better-averaged- reading.
You could drain some out if there is too much. But don't go off just one reading. Take it once or twice a day after your usual commute for a few days to get a better-averaged- reading.
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It's not a min and max line, it's a full and min line.
You should be dead on the full line, which may require you drain or add a bit more to get it just right. The exact amount your supposed to add is actually 2.9 quarts. If you haven't swapped to the new style dipstick do that too.
You should be dead on the full line, which may require you drain or add a bit more to get it just right. The exact amount your supposed to add is actually 2.9 quarts. If you haven't swapped to the new style dipstick do that too.
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i would also clean the sand and dirt off around the opening of the dipstick you definitely don't want dirt getting in there because the dipstick is usually very loose and moves around while your driving.
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ok looks like my engine oil is overfilled too?
Yes I did that and i have the new dipstick.
Yes I did that and i have the new dipstick.
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Yup, drain it down to the second dot.
There's a whole series of problems associated with overfilling oil.
There's a whole series of problems associated with overfilling oil.
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Really? Damn good thing im taking notice now. The one mech Ive been getting to do my oil and ATF changes has overfilled it each time. You think thats enough to warrant not going back?
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Rep Power: 232 Re: ATF levels. should it be between the min and max line or ON the max line?
i don't have a usable garage either i do it in my back yard and once again you fail. check the DIY section
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Re: ATF levels. should it be between the min and max line or ON the max line?
I used to change my oil in my job's parking lot or in our apartment complex before we moved into a house. I changed my radiator in like 90 degree weather before. . Never again.
OP, invest in a cheap socket set and hit up the DIY section.
OP, invest in a cheap socket set and hit up the DIY section.
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Trust me.. do EVERYTHING yourself... Mechanics are sloppy and want to get the car out of there A.S.A.P. I do everything in my driveway, with no garage as well... Here is me just about to tackle some balljoints.. Parts and tools laid out.. on my driveway lol (SORRY MEL! I'd take my car to you fo sho)
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Yeah you start overfilling your ATF/oil and you start getting seal problems. My rear main seal and crankshaft seal are going-going-(almost gone). It all started when my mech's would overfill.
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If your mechanic can't get the oil levels right, do you think he will be percise on more complicated jobs?
Not having a garage is no big deal, I work out my apartment parking lot. Just buy a cheap metric socket set, a jack and stands, an oil drain pan and funnel, and a torque wrench; with those tools you'll be able to do 90% of jobs yourself.
Not having a garage is no big deal, I work out my apartment parking lot. Just buy a cheap metric socket set, a jack and stands, an oil drain pan and funnel, and a torque wrench; with those tools you'll be able to do 90% of jobs yourself.
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Trust me.. do EVERYTHING yourself... Mechanics are sloppy and want to get the car out of there A.S.A.P. I do everything in my driveway, with no garage as well... Here is me just about to tackle some balljoints.. Parts and tools laid out.. on my driveway lol (SORRY MEL! I'd take my car to you fo sho)
If I can come up with a list of what tools I need, I would consider doing it myself.
Looks like a couple hundred just for the tools
If your mechanic can't get the oil levels right, do you think he will be percise on more complicated jobs?
Not having a garage is no big deal, I work out my apartment parking lot. Just buy a cheap metric socket set, a jack and stands, an oil drain pan and funnel, and a torque wrench; with those tools you'll be able to do 90% of jobs yourself.
Not having a garage is no big deal, I work out my apartment parking lot. Just buy a cheap metric socket set, a jack and stands, an oil drain pan and funnel, and a torque wrench; with those tools you'll be able to do 90% of jobs yourself.
Last edited by Civicnoobie; 07-05-2011 at 01:27 AM.
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do you have a harbor freight tools near you there good for jack stands,jacks,sockets its a start anyway but i would get a good name brand torque wrench.
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Rep Power: 260 Re: ATF levels. should it be between the min and max line or ON the max line?
Your quoting imperial socket sizes, only you strange americans use that measurement system, our cars are japanese and therefore you need metric sockets. Go to the store and just buy a basic socket set in a plastic case, usually they're like $50-75 for one that will serve all your needs. You'll probably spend $200-250 on tools, but once you learn and start doing relatively complex repairs yourself you'll save a ton of cash; remember, most shops charge $80-120 an hour for labour.
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I never heard of those socket sets being called "imperial" lol. My socket set calls them "standard"
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Re: ATF levels. should it be between the min and max line or ON the max line?
Your quoting imperial socket sizes, only you strange americans use that measurement system, our cars are japanese and therefore you need metric sockets. Go to the store and just buy a basic socket set in a plastic case, usually they're like $50-75 for one that will serve all your needs. You'll probably spend $200-250 on tools, but once you learn and start doing relatively complex repairs yourself you'll save a ton of cash; remember, most shops charge $80-120 an hour for labour.
To noobie: I think to start you should wait for a good sale on a quality set, not some chinese junk. This one is a pretty good starter set, and actually the lowest price I've seen it ($100 off!): http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...&blockType=G21
To it you'll want to add, at a minimum: A 17mm deep socket (for PCV removal), a pliers set (slip joint, needle nose, etc), some adjustable wrenches, and maybe either some assorted screwdrivers or a ratcheting screwdriver.
You'll probably want at some point: Some large 1/2"-drive sockets and a breaker bar (to get spindle nut removed, among other things).
Lifetime warranty on my tools has been good to me so far, I don't break things often, but there's two or three Sears stores nearby and it's a short drive.
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I got the new OEM ATF sick, the one thats part number ends in 003.
For the engine oil i took out about half a quart today, now it sits perfect. I dont know about you but overfilling by half a litre is pretty serious.
Also when i check oil, i pull the stick out twice and i get oil all over the dipstick but im still able to get a reading from the bottom. Is this normal to have engine oil on the upper part of the dipstick after its hot and driven?
For the engine oil i took out about half a quart today, now it sits perfect. I dont know about you but overfilling by half a litre is pretty serious.
Also when i check oil, i pull the stick out twice and i get oil all over the dipstick but im still able to get a reading from the bottom. Is this normal to have engine oil on the upper part of the dipstick after its hot and driven?
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