Civic update.
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To those who dont know my motor blew and i just dropped a new motor in. I dropped the new motor in yesterday started it and she had a bad crank seal and headgasket. Today i replaced the headgasket and crank seal. well the crank seal leak was fixed, then about 1min of idle (no smoke in that 1min) she started blowing white smoke again and the engine temp was at damn near full ruining temp.... Do you guys think that it overheated again that quickly and blew another head gasket due to the water pump being bad and circulating no coolant?
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Hmmmm... it could be anything now. It could be a water pump, something might be plugged, thermostat could not be opening. Did you bleed the air out of the cooling system? Did you check to make sure the head was even? Sounds like the engine wasnt taken care of It might be just coolant that flowed into the cylinders during the head removal burning off but that doesnt explain the overheating.
#4
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+1 for lazlong's advice. Did you torque the bolts in the correct order? If you start on the outside, you run the chance of scrunching the HG as you go towards the center, which can cause leaks.
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I started in the center at 14lbs then the next out at 36lbs and the last 49lbs, I've got a buddy who is gonna his mechanist level and feelers over to check the head and block tomorrow. In the mean time I'm gonna pull the thermostat and water pump and put the new ones on and check for coolant flow throw out the engine and I'm going to pick up some new head bolts which could also have added to the problem so pretty much every issue possible I'm replacing and we did a uv light check on the cylinder walls and head ad theres no cracks
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"Update" Went to a local machine shop and had them check the head, it checked out and is still level. New head studs coming in Wednesday. I Really hope the reason for the white smoke this past time was because the head bolts were stretched and wouldn't hold down the head tight. and i think i might not of torqued the head down correctly i found some specs on the forums for it awhile back saying start in the center at 14lbs then move out to the next set of studs at 36lbs and end on the outsides at 49lbs.. for some reason anything under 50lbs for a head bolt just doesn't sound right to me any help is appreciated!
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you better get a copy of one'a these.
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...pdated-11.html
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...pdated-11.html
#10
Re: Civic update.
Do a leakdown check on your combustion chamber and pressure check your cooling system and find out where your leak is.
Or you can keep guessing and throwing money at it...
Or you can keep guessing and throwing money at it...
#11
Re: Civic update.
"Update" Went to a local machine shop and had them check the head, it checked out and is still level. New head studs coming in Wednesday. I Really hope the reason for the white smoke this past time was because the head bolts were stretched and wouldn't hold down the head tight. and i think i might not of torqued the head down correctly i found some specs on the forums for it awhile back saying start in the center at 14lbs then move out to the next set of studs at 36lbs and end on the outsides at 49lbs.. for some reason anything under 50lbs for a head bolt just doesn't sound right to me any help is appreciated!
I hope that you did not leave the centre ones at 14lb/ft.
as the previous post says you really need to get the service manual to cut out the guess work.
Last edited by nsxvtec; 05-03-2011 at 06:06 PM.
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Just seems like he skipped the first step in searching for a coolant leak. Always do a leak down test on each cylinder and a pressure test on the coolant system. It helps you locate the problem or at least give you a better starting point than pulling the head right off the bat. It would appear that he is beyond that now. The torque method seems suspect. I read it the same way nsxvtec did but that could have been a flaw in the description.
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well...
I think you guys need to read this one...
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/2...ing-again.html
In the honda engines, usually the coolant system/cylinder compression pressure test does not give a good idea. you need to do the combusted gases check in the coolant system, which indicates if there is combusted gases on the coolant. it could be a very small amount of leak, but it will cause overheating. period...
Not sure the why's, but you will not find coolant in oil or oil in the coolant, not find low compression, but it overheats. might be something to do with the cyclinder/sleeve design or else. all or most of them ends up in the head gasket.
I think you guys need to read this one...
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/2...ing-again.html
In the honda engines, usually the coolant system/cylinder compression pressure test does not give a good idea. you need to do the combusted gases check in the coolant system, which indicates if there is combusted gases on the coolant. it could be a very small amount of leak, but it will cause overheating. period...
Not sure the why's, but you will not find coolant in oil or oil in the coolant, not find low compression, but it overheats. might be something to do with the cyclinder/sleeve design or else. all or most of them ends up in the head gasket.
Last edited by sdaidoji; 05-03-2011 at 07:25 PM.
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Il find out tomorrow for sure if the head studs and the wrong torquing are the final problems. Hopefully this will be the last time i pull that damn head until boost time.. If it does have problems tomorow then the only thing that could be left is a crack in the head or block. Both the head and block have been check to see if there still level also.
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well...
I think you guys need to read this one...
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/2...ing-again.html
In the honda engines, usually the coolant system/cylinder compression pressure test does not give a good idea. you need to do the combusted gases check in the coolant system, which indicates if there is combusted gases on the coolant. it could be a very small amount of leak, but it will cause overheating. period...
Not sure the why's, but you will not find coolant in oil or oil in the coolant, not find low compression, but it overheats. might be something to do with the cyclinder/sleeve design or else. all or most of them ends up in the head gasket.
I think you guys need to read this one...
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/2...ing-again.html
In the honda engines, usually the coolant system/cylinder compression pressure test does not give a good idea. you need to do the combusted gases check in the coolant system, which indicates if there is combusted gases on the coolant. it could be a very small amount of leak, but it will cause overheating. period...
Not sure the why's, but you will not find coolant in oil or oil in the coolant, not find low compression, but it overheats. might be something to do with the cyclinder/sleeve design or else. all or most of them ends up in the head gasket.
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I have never seen a torque sequence on any engine that you didn't torque all the bolts at the same time.
Torque them all to 14, then torque them all to 36, then torque them all to 49.
Torque them all to 14, then torque them all to 36, then torque them all to 49.
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wow i never thought that would be an issue lol. lazlong explained it the best. its a 3 stage torque and ordered sequence. each bolt gets the same three torques.
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I have one of these that I bought not too long ago.. Actually it was a christmas gift... They work great and are just about as accurate as click type torque wrenches They also don't need calibration!!
#22
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"Update" Let the car idol for about 5 to 10 min then the idol started fluctuating and smoke started pouring out of the exhaust. Pulled the map sensor and the other sensor connected right above it. idol went to normal..
#23
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I know in my car(6th gen), there's a giant label that reads MAP sensor right above the TB, so there's like no way to mess it up. What exactly was it plugged into before?
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The map sensor has a big stamp on it saying its the map but the other sensor just has code numbers on it, but the other sensor looks like it is tied into the vacume line that runs to the hoes that sits ontop of the fuel rail. I was reading a fourm a couple weeks ago about a guy having the same issue as me and it turned out it was his FPR and map sensor and a vacume sensor.. but to me even if those three do have issues where would the white smoke be coming from?
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"update" fix the smoke problem, torqued the headstuds down to about 90lbs, but idle is still fluctuating going up to 2k slowly the drops to 900 and repeats cycle and car will not go past 3k it is acting like it's the red line. Not sure how to adjust the evap valve the green cap doesn't seem to adjustable. Lol.
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You torqued your head bolts to 90 ft/lbs? ....? Seriously? Your officially in "Limp Home Mode"... The idle is probably a TPS sensor or something... but torquing to 90 ft/lbs is WAY too much for aluminum.
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See i was worried about that.. i asked the guy at the local machine shop here and he said just torque them to 90lbs and if will fix your issues he said thats what they do on all there honda motors that come in but now im worried.. what can happen with head studs over torqued?
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See i was worried about that.. i asked the guy at the local machine shop here and he said just torque them to 90lbs and if will fix your issues he said thats what they do on all there honda motors that come in but now im worried.. what can happen with head studs over torqued?
Lots of bad things.
1. You pull the threads out of the block.
2. If the threads don't pull out you can stretch a Head bolt (however unlikely with alum heads/block)
3.With so much pressure you run the risk of warping or cracking the head.
4. Not 100% sure but that much torque on a head gasket that isn't meant to have it isnt great either.
ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS! use the manufactures recommended specs.