specialized7

Alright well i just changed pads and rotor on the civic and the drivers side was worn right down and the passenger side was almost new. so i knew i had a problem.

I figured slid pins needed grease so i greased them.
Today im driving to work (5 mins on highway) and when i get there i accidently kicked snow at the car and heard a bunch of crazy sizzling.
This new rotor was crazy hot i didnt dare touch it, and the rim was hot to.

Any common issues with these or do i need a new caliper?
i really dont want to have to bleed the brakes!

richs1000

Sounds like you need a new caliper.

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

dismantle them again, check and eliminate rust, check if they are not bentl, ube, place back, see if the sliders are moving freely (with some resistance). Then check if pistons are not seized as well.

specialized7

alright im going to tear them apart and use some high temp grease since i think all the grease probably sizzled off haha.
I know the pistons pushed in fine but the inner brake pad was a Pain to get in, maybe thats whats sticking , ill have to check it out when i take out the lowering springs.

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

good luck! if you find something that seems weird, post the pics before reassemblying!!! sounds something odd is going on.

specialized7

Sounds good, Thanks man!

sl33pyriceboi

iTrader: (3)

You needa replace the piston seals and boot etc. Basically rebuilding ur caliper

TRIZ

iTrader: (14)

I've been doing brakes for a long time and it was just until last week that I figured out how to solve that sticking caliper issue. Its dumb that I never realized this before since its so simple... Lets start by making sure you actually are doing everything correct to begin with.

1) Disassemble the caliper as miuch as you can- take the brake pads out, the retainers, and the pins with the dust boots removed as well. Clean everything with a can of brake kleen (you'll probably use most of a can the first time if you never did this, and then barely any down the line with repeated cleanings. CONTACT POINTS- clean them, make sure there is no rust and no brake dust built up. I sometimes use a scotch green scrubbing pad on them to make it easier. lightly grease both sides of the retainer (and the gap the retainer fits into.

2) Pins.. wipe the old greese off the pins, reinsert, pull it out, wipe it off... get as much of the old grease as you can out. Relube the pins, stick them in, pull them out, get all the grease out. use one of the pins to get the old grease out of the dust boot (thats what I call the rubber boot between the caliper and the pin, if your wondering). regreese the pins, side the dust boot over the pin and insert it... HERE IS THE TRICK TO MAKE SURE CALIPERS DONT STICK TO THE ROTOR... push the dust boot on the caliper first, then fit it on the bolt. this way there is some air in there and naturally pushes the caliper back out. I repeat, connect the dust boot to the caliper first, then the pin second. Clean the rotor with some break kleen and a paper towel just like the other parts of the brake. You dont want oils from your hands, anti seize, lube, or dirt and grime from the previous pads to contaminate the new pads. If the rotor is scored, get it resurfaced or better yet replaced. I replace rotors in pairs to keep everything balanced but I'm sure most people dont alyways do this since brake rotors are also sold individually. Its up to you.

3) breakpads... use anti squeel between the back of the pad and the OEM shim. grease the sides of the pad that touch the retainer/caliper when installed. Slap the pads in there, push the piston back in with a C-clamp or the correct piston tool if you got it. Torque to spec. You should also bleed your brakes as well, but thats a process for a different DIY. so look it up.

4) break the pads in correctly based on the mfgs specs or just by driving around and doing hard stops from slower speeds to almost stops up to faster speeds to almost stops (like 5-10mph) and back down. The worst thing you can do when breaking pads in is overheat them in the begining (by dragging your foot on the break as in down a steep hill) or breaking and holding the pad on the rotor like while at a light. Once your done the break in, park the car, let them cool to room temp, and then take the car out for a regular drive around the neighborhood to make sure there isnt any squeeks.

If you followed this guide correctly, you shouldnt have any brake problems.

specialized7

Thanks for the write up man, I will try it out. I have 2 brand new rotors on the front as well as pads.