7th Generation Civic 2001 - 2005 In the years from 2001 to 2005 Honda released it's 7th Generation Civic.
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synthetic oil a waste of money?

 
Old 08-29-2010
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Re: synthetic oil a waste of money?

5w30 is a pretty good weight to run. the vtec solenoid can have issues on 5w20 in the summer, also the oil level can be low enough to make the solenoid not work but high enough to keep the oil light off. thats why its always good to check the level at least every 2 weeks or a month if lazy. if you are waiting for the oil light (low oil pressure) to come on, its already too late and the motor is ruined.
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Old 08-29-2010
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Re: synthetic oil a waste of money?

Originally Posted by gearbox
5w30 is a pretty good weight to run. the vtec solenoid can have issues on 5w20 in the summer
I thought the second number in the oil weight ratings was the the weight of the oil when cold, and the first number was when it was hot?
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Old 08-30-2010
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Re: synthetic oil a waste of money?

Synthetic Oil off the shelf is a waste of money IMO. As long as you change the oil regularly and keep it filled to specs, there is nothing wrong with reg conv oil. After seeing oils in the military and seeing how to separate the water/debris from oil, it made me change my way of thinking about oil. Oil itself doesn't break down, the particles that attach themselves to the oil is what kills an engine. What do you think happens to the oil you dispose of? It is separated, cleaned, and filled with additives and put back on the shelf. Sorry for ranting but I see paying over $30 for a civic oil change pretty ridiculous.
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Old 08-31-2010
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Re: synthetic oil a waste of money?

5w = cold weight for the most part.
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Old 09-01-2010
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Re: synthetic oil a waste of money?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil#Multi-grade

Apparently the W after the number means winter weight. still a litter confused, if the first number is the cold viscosity, wouldnt you want the second number lower??
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Old 09-01-2010
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Re: synthetic oil a waste of money?

Correct 5w20 would be better in the winter for cold starting than 5w30, for example.
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Old 09-01-2010
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Re: synthetic oil a waste of money?

20 weight is thinner oil, 30 weight is thicker only at "warm" engine operating temps. in the summer, the heat can be too much and the thinner oil will not lubricate as well. it can also break down to an even lower viscosity. when you first start the engine "cold" then the oils have the same 5w weight. so cold starting doesnt matter, you want the thicker 5w30 for normal driving. in the winter, the engine usually still reaches the same operating temp. now if you switch to 0w20, you will have better cold starting lubrication because the oil is already so thin. 5w30 and 5w20 have the same cold starting viscosity. i would say if it never gets above 40F, you are fine with 5w20.

i think you might be confusing "winter/cold weather" with "cold start" and they are not the same thing. you always have a cold start when the engine has not been used for over 10 hrs. doesnt matter if its summer or winter. before the oil warms up, its technically at the cold viscosity. then once the engine warms up (whether in winter or summer), it will use the warm viscosity value. 0w20 was chosen for hybrid hondas because it gives better gas mileage while the car is warming up. and alot of times the engines are not pushed nearly as hard as a normal gas engine. hybrid engine cuts off at lights, and sometimes is not used at all in electric mode. so the motor sometimes never reaches operating temp or does so very slowly. so for a hybrid, you can get away with 0w20 and normal driving. if you push the car hard, 5w20 is a safer option. put 0w20 in a normal gas engine in the summer and you are drastically cutting the engine life.

Last edited by gearbox; 09-01-2010 at 10:39 PM.
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Old 09-02-2010
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Re: synthetic oil a waste of money?

All right, this is my first post on this site, but I'm going to jump in here. I'm coming into Civics from Vipers, and as you can imagine, there's a lot of talk amongst those guys about what oil to run.

1. Cold weight is cold weight. A 5W-xx is a 5W-xx. When you start a cold engine, 5W-20 is almost equivalent to 5W-30, is almost equivalent to 5W-40 (I say almost because there are slight viscosity differences if you look up the MSDS on the manufacturers' websites, but they fall within a very narrow range).

2. Similarly, hot weight is hot weight. xW-30 is xW-30 at engine operating temperatures, regardless of the first number.

3. Mineral vs. synthetic: The first question we have to ask is, how are these terms defined? As was mentioned already in this thread, Group III oils are considered synthetic, and badged and sold as synthetic when, in fact, they are highly-refined mineral oils. What, then, differentiates minerals and synthetics? The answer is friction modifiers. These are substances added to an oil to give it the properties of a multigrade oil rather than a singleweight oil (allowing a 10W-40 to act like a 10-weight at low temperatures and a 40-weight at high temperatures). The advantage of synthetics is that they naturally have a wide viscosity range, and fewer friction modifiers need to be added to them to achieve the desired multigrade properties. Why is this good? Because friction modifiers break down over time in the high-pressure, hot environment inside an engine. Fewer friction modifiers=less breakdown=less change in the oil's viscosity over time. Theoretically, this allows synthetics to be run in an engine much longer than mineral oils.

I say theoretically because there are other considerations than a change in viscosity. All oils contain additives: to resist breakdown, to trap dirt, to prevent wear, etc. Additive packages among passeneger car oils also do not differ appreciably between minerals and synthetics, or even manufacturer to manufacturer (I know I'll get flamed for saying that, but so be it. In the real world, it doesn't make much difference), but they do between type (passenger car vs. European passenger car diesel vs. heavy diesel). Mostly. For an illustration, skip to #6. Also, additives are used up or break down over time, necessitating replacement of the oil in our (or any) engines. When your oil turns black, it's a good thing, because it means it's doing its job--trapping soot, carbon, and dirt so it doesn't form deposits in the engine where you don't want it.

4. Yes, you can switch back and forth between mineral and synthetic oils with no adverse effects.

5. An engine will not run "smoother" on synthetic oil than it does on mineral of the same viscosity. As I said before, oil weight is oil weight. It's the additive package that matters.

6. Consider this example: My first Viper was a 2002 GTS, with an engine block designed in the early 1990s. Factory fill was Mobil 1 10W-30. My second Viper-powered vehicle was a 2005 Dodge Ram SRT-10, with the same aluminum block design (bored and stroked), but this time with Mobil 1 0W-40 from the factory, as all 2005 model year and higher Vipers use. Why the change? When the block was designed, the additives used in motor oils were very different; in particular, under API classification SG (1989-1994), levels of the anti-wear additive ZDDP (zinc dialkyldithiophosphate) were nearly twice what they are under the current SM (1200-1300ppm vs. 600-800ppm). The switch by Dodge from 10W-30 to 0W-40 was not made because of the oils' viscosity--Vipers are impossible to drive in the snow, and 10W oil is good for cold starts well below 0F anyway; a thicker oil at high temperatures, while solving some oil-starvation issues in high-g turns, actually robs horsepower slightly. The reason they switched was because of the additive package--Mobil's 0W-40 is a European formulation, and does not meet API SM (which limits ZDDP). In fact, the 0W-40 contains 1100ppm ZDDP, very close to the oil the Viper engine was originally designed to use. Tellingly, this switch was made for the 2005 model year, which began production in September 2004--two months before API SM went into effect. Moral of the story: The additives are what matter!

7. If you don't believe me, look this stuff up for yourself.

Sorry to be so long-winded. I just get tired of seeing the same misinformation repeated over and over, again and again, on various forums.
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Old 09-03-2010
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Re: synthetic oil a waste of money?

think of the w as in winter lol, 5w-20 is fine if you live in moderate temperature climate, 5w-30 if you live in california. the difference is very little between 5w-20 and 5w-30, that first 5w is on cold and startup. so don't go putting 10w-30 or higher in there or you can ruin internal gaskets and seals as cars have tighter tolerances inside compared to older motors.

Synthetic is a waste, save your money and buy a good quality conventional. Also those synthetics say you can go to 7500 and some 10k, but your filter will never hold up to that.

And that hot rod test that said added 20 hp or even 10 hp is a joke, you can get the same power with conventional oil, this aint nascar, our econo boxes were never meant to go at high speed /thread synthetic is a waste
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Old 09-10-2010
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Re: synthetic oil a waste of money?

This thread is an exercise in futility. For what it's worth, here's more futility! I have a 2001 Honda Civic LX with over 110k miles on it. I'm the original owner. I have only ever changed oil every 10k miles as suggested in the owner's manual. I have switched between conventional and synthetic and back again. I noticed no difference. My engine seems to be running fine.
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Old 09-10-2010
  #101  
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Re: synthetic oil a waste of money?

at 95k now i just tried full synthetic (maxlife 5w30) synpower mainly so i can go longer oil changes of 10k miles without worrying if the oil went bad. but yeah i agree, no performance difference at all switching from regular. car used regular its whole life and the engine is spotless inside and getting great mileage with 8k mile changes. i only got synthetic because it was an extra $5 from the regular maxlife i bought before on sale. so i figured why not try it out. its not really worth it.
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Old 09-11-2010
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Re: synthetic oil a waste of money?

Originally Posted by gearbox
at 95k now i just tried full synthetic (maxlife 5w30) synpower mainly so i can go longer oil changes of 10k miles without worrying if the oil went bad. but yeah i agree, no performance difference at all switching from regular. car used regular its whole life and the engine is spotless inside and getting great mileage with 8k mile changes. i only got synthetic because it was an extra $5 from the regular maxlife i bought before on sale. so i figured why not try it out. its not really worth it.
please tell me you change your filter atleast every 5k miles
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Old 09-11-2010
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Re: synthetic oil a waste of money?

filter every 8k, honda says its okay to go 7.5k on their filter, and i use much better filters than honda oem with higher holding capacity (K&N, mobil1, napagold, etc that can go 8k no problems). the oil always comes out clean tho with nothing in it, even on my magnetic drain plug (i still use lc20 which keeps most particles in solution so much less engine wear even with contaminated oil). i feel like i dont even need a filter sometimes lol. i prolly will just start doing a second filter change at 5k since im going 10k now and thats a bit too long to leave on anything except amsoil filters.

Last edited by gearbox; 09-11-2010 at 12:47 PM.
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Old 09-15-2010
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Re: synthetic oil a waste of money?

@Vman55, great post. Finally some reasoned commentary on oil & oil changes!

Certainly more thoughtful than the usual:
- it's cheap insurance,
- nothing but the best for my baby
- my oil looks dirty
- I can feel my car runs better with Brand xxx
- etc. etc.

On OCIs, I don't get why people don't trust the sophisticated OLM or OLS systems that tell you when you need to change your oil, thinking "OMG, my oil can't last that long!". They think the age old rule-of-thumb 3K mile oil changes trump contemporary, rigorous engineering and testing by major automobile companies. OLM/OLS are implementations of PREDICTIVE maintenance which has been used in industry for many years b/c it is much more cost effective than scheduled preventative maintenance.

Ironically many change their oil too frequently and with very expensive oil & filters yet they don't do the same for their auto transmission which is equally complex and probably more prone to failure. Go figure.

On oil brands, years ago I worked at Esso's Lubricant Research facility in Sarnia Ontario. We tested various brands of oil purchased off store shelves. We tested the oils new and after having been run in engines on the dyno. Guess what? All oils (premium and inexpensive) performed approx. the same. The premium oils had better (i.e. longer lasting) adpacs (additive packages) but if you change your oil regularly the budget oils worked just as well as the premium ones (e.g. Castrol, QS, Valvoline, etc.).

A few years later, I was working at the Shell Lubricant Blend facility in Brockville Ontario and watched with interest as they changed over from packaging a Shell motor oil to packaging the $0.99 no-name door crasher special for Canadian Tire (a major retailer in Canada). The only change made? The sticker on the bottle - other than that it was the exact same oil in the exact same bottle. You could pay 3-4X as much from Shell or $1 from Canadian Tire.

Change your oil regularly per your car's service schedule with an approved oil and you'll be fine. Your engine will outlast your car.


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Old 03-14-2011
  #105  
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Re: synthetic oil a waste of money?

hey guys just thought i would report back my problem switching to synthetic. before ive been running conventional from 0-60k miles, then valvoline maxlife conventional from 60-95k, and recently as i mentioned i switched to full synthetic maxlife. before switching, my car never lost any oil for 8k miles between oil changes. i never had to add even a drop. now as soon as i switched to synthetic, ive been having to add about 1/4th quart of oil every month, sometimes more like 1/2 qt almost. that seems like alot for an engine in good condition with no leaks and no burning before conventional. im trying out redline synthetic this summer to see if its any better, but if not i will be going back to conventional because its not worth checking and adding oil so often.
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Old 03-14-2011
  #106  
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Re: synthetic oil a waste of money?

I'm surprised your having issues, I run Royal Purple in my engine and never need to add between changes.
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Old 03-14-2011
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Re: synthetic oil a waste of money?

yeah supposedly synthetic has better burn off protection but maybe it varies by brand.
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Old 03-15-2011
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Re: synthetic oil a waste of money?

Just for fun, I actually read this thread from the beginning. Most people have some idea about the differences between dino and synthetic, few have a complete picture.

The term "synthetic" is just about meaningless here in the USA. Years ago there was a lawsuit between different oil companies if a "hydrocracked" dino oil can be labeled and sold as a "synthetic." Hydrocracked synthetic is dino oil with an extra step in processing. The resulting oil is a bit better than standard dino oil, but nowhere close in performance to the full synthetics using PAO or Ester based oils. Yet, as a result of that lawsuit, hydrocracked dino oils can be labeled and sold as synthetic.

Both Amsoil and Mobil 1 now makes several different formulations. Each different formulation has a different recommended mileage interval between oil changes. I can't remember for sure, but I think all are labeled "synthetic." They range from 5,000 to 30,000 mile oil change interval recommendations.

I agree with those who say "synthetic" oil is not worth the extra cost, but I will add ... not worth the extra cost if extended drain intervals are not recommended.

One easy way to tell if an oil is a "full" synthetic is to look at the spec sheet for cold pour temperature. Full synthetics have a cold pour temperature -60 F. Dino oils have a cold pour temperature of -20 F. In other words, if you pay $10 a qt for oil with a -20 F pour point, you are wasting about $8 a qt.

I started using Amsoil, and extended drain intervals over 20 years ago. I have verified their claims of extended oil drain intervals with multiple oil analysis. However ... I also use their filters, keep the engine tuned up so gas does not dilute the oil, make sure radiator and condensation water does not contaminate the oil, changed to Amsoil after soon engine break in, and have run up to 20,000 miles between oil changes.

But, Amsoil is getting so expensive, I am considering changing to the 15,000 mile Mobile 1 purchased at Walmart on sale.

Don't bother trying to change to any full synthetic after 80,000 to 100,000 miles of dino oil. By then the seals are coated with varnish, dried out, cracked, and the only thing keeping them from leaking is the coat of varnish left on them by burnt dino oil. Doing too much of any engine oil flush or PAO based oil, Amsoil, or 15,000 mile Mobile 1, will clean off the varnish and the seals start leaking. People blame the new leaks on the "synthetic" oil, but in reality, the dino oil killed the seals before the synthetic oil was added.

Please forgive my generalizations, I don't bother to keep up with the latest details anymore.
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Old 03-15-2011
  #109  
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Re: synthetic oil a waste of money?

I did my research on oil research years ago when I first bought my car at 30k km and decided to go with Royal Purple for the very reasons mentioned above. Currently I buy Royal Purple by the case for $90 and that does three changes, thats the best value for the best quality oil I know of. Short of buying oil by the barrel that is.


A little light reading..
"Not all synthetic oils are the same. Mobile is a Group III synthetic, not a Group IV. Even though the label might say Full Synthetic, it doesn't mean the same thing for all oils. As for extended drain intervals, it is fine to run extended drain intervals with a Group IV synthetic oil if you couple it with better filtration. Not all oil filters are created equal either. Fram and other cheap oil filters don't filter much below 35 micron and are just cellulose (paper based) filters. Higher quality oil filters have synthetic media, not paper, and filter much better. AMSOIL Eao oil filters filter down to 15 micron, and their bypass filtration systems filter down to 2 micron at 98% efficiency.

There are many oils out there that call themselves synthetic, but not all are created equal, and that's important to know. You do get what you pay for. Group III synthetic oils only use about 12% synthetic base stocks. The rest is hyrdocracked petroleum base stocks. For major oil companies who have their money in crude oil refining, the word "synthetic" is merely a marketing term. It does not mean 100%, but just that a percentage of synthetic base stock goes into their product.

The oils that are commonly mentioned are Group II and Group III synthetics with the exception of Royal Purple, which is a Group V. AMSOIL is a Group IV synthetic (PAO) but also uses Group V Ester technology. It gives you the best of Group IV and Group V synthetics. Mobil 1 is a Group III synthetic. AMSOIL is a Group IV synthetic.

In the late 1990s, Castrol started selling an oil made from Group III base oil and called it SynTec Full Synthetic. Mobil sued Castrol, asserting that this oil was not synthetic, but simply a highly refined petroleum oil, and therefore it was false advertising to call it synthetic. In 1999, Mobil lost their lawsuit. It was decided that the word "synthetic" was a marketing term and referred to properties, not to production methods or ingredients. Castrol continues to make SynTec out of Group III base oils, that is highly purified mineral oil with most all of the cockroach bits removed.

Shortly after Mobil lost their lawsuit, most oil companies started reformulating their synthetic oils to use Group III base stocks instead of PAOs or diester stocks as their primary component. Most of the "synthetic oil" you can buy today is actually mostly made of this highly-distilled and purified dino-juice called Group III oil. Group III base oils cost about half as much as the synthetics. By using a blend of mostly Group III oils and a smaller amount of "true" synthetics, the oil companies can produce a product that has some of the same properties as the "true" synthetics, and nearly the same cost as the Group III oil. AMSOIL differs from Group III oils. As a Group IV oil, it uses 100% pure synthetic base stocks. This is why you can run it for longer intervals.

Synthetic oils were originally designed for the purpose of having a very pure base oil with excellent properties. By starting from scratch and building up your oil molecules from little pieces, you can pretty much guarantee that every molecule in the oil is just like every other molecule, and therefore the properties are exactly what you designed in, not compromised by impurities. Synthetics were thus originally a reaction to the relatively poor refining processes available from about 1930 to about 1990. The original synthetics were designed for the Army Air Force in WW II. They simply could not make their high- performance turbo-charged radial engines stay alive on the available motor oils of the time.

One process for making synthetic base oils is to start with a chemical called an olefin, and make new molecules by attaching them to each other in long chains, hence "poly." The primary advantage of Poly-Alpha-Olefin "PAO" base oil is that all the molecules in the base oil are pretty much identical, so it's easy to get the base oil to behave exactly as you like. PAOs are called Group IV base oils.

These PAO base oils have an enormous advantage over mineral base oils in low temperature performance and in resistance to oxidation, which is critical in keeping the oil from forming acids.

Another type of base oil is made from refined and processed esters and is called Group V. Esters start life as fatty acids in plants and animals, which are then chemically combined into esters, diesters, and polyesters. Group V base stocks are the most expensive of all to produce. However, the esters are polar molecules and have very significant solvent properties - an ester base oil all by itself will do a very decent job of keeping your engine clean. So, people who are serious about making a superior oil will usually mix some Group V oils into their base stock.

Oils that are strictly Group V ester oils tend to be better suited for high RPM, hot running, air cooled engines. 100% ester based oils are usually more expensive than Group IV oils, and don't have the longevity of PAO (Group IV) or PAO/Ester mixes oils. Group V oils perform very well in the shorter term. Oils like Royal Purple and Redline are Group V oils. They perform very well in race engines and in applications where drain intervals are factory spec or shorter, whereas Group IV oils are better suited for the long haul of extended intervals.

Whatever oil you choose, know what you are buying. Just because the jug says "synthetic" doesn't mean it is made from 100% pure synthetic base stocks."
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Old 03-15-2011
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Re: synthetic oil a waste of money?

shell rotella T6 is one of the best oils out there. much high protection than mobile 1's "full synthetic"

plus its only $20 a gal a wally world


and its been proven countless times with UOA reports (used oil analysis)
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Re: synthetic oil a waste of money?

Anybody from the south (Cali, Nevada, Arizona) how does your oil perform in the heat over there? Heat indexes in TX are 110-115 for a good 2 months. Winter here is, like-2 weeks max below freezing for the entire season. The humidity is so bad here it will ruin your perm. Not to mention the hill county. Heat+Humidity+Steep hills=dayym!

When I say 'performance' I mean like- do you burn more oil in hot season more than cold etc...

Last edited by 7genmarathon; 03-15-2011 at 09:46 AM.
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Old 03-15-2011
  #112  
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Re: synthetic oil a waste of money?

ive never heard of synthetic causing problems in older motors. i havent noticed any leaks. if the seals are not leaking with dyno, they shouldnt leak with synthetic (provided you use the same weight of oil).
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Old 03-15-2011
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Re: synthetic oil a waste of money?

Mindbomber,

I've used Mobil 1 for long time. about 5 years ago. I am sure it was Group IV (PAO) based just like the Amsoil. It even had the word "PAO" on the bottle. It's just Group III like Castol and the gangs. Probably, they wants to reduce the cost.

gearbox,

There are discussion about the PAO based can cause the seal to shrink. But, I am not sure if it applies to your case or not.
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Old 03-15-2011
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Re: synthetic oil a waste of money?

Originally Posted by sl33pyriceboi
shell rotella T6 is one of the best oils out there. much high protection than mobile 1's "full synthetic"

plus its only $20 a gal a wally world


and its been proven countless times with UOA reports (used oil analysis)
5W-40 wow, I am afraid it will hurt mileage but yeah why not : )
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Re: synthetic oil a waste of money?

****
Myth #1: Synthetic motor oils damage seals.

Untrue. It would be foolhardy for lubricant manufacturers to build a product that is incompatible with seals. The composition of seals presents problems that both petroleum oils and synthetics must overcome. Made from elastomers, seals are inherently difficult to standardize.

Ultimately it is the additive mix in the oil that counts. Additives to control seal swell, shrinkage and hardening are required, whether it be a synthetic or petroleum product that is being produced.

Myth #2: Synthetics are too thin to stay in the engine.

Untrue. In order for a lubricant to be classified in any SAE grade (10W-30, 10W-40, etc) it has to meet certain guidelines with regard to viscosity ("thickness").

For example, it makes no difference whether it is 10W-40 petroleum or 10W-40 synthetic, at -25 degrees centigrade (-13F) and 100 degrees centigrade (212 degrees F) that oil has to maintain a standardized viscosity or it can't be rated a 10W-40.

Myth #3: Synthetics cause cars to use more oil.

Untrue. Synthetic motor oils are intended to use in mechanically sound engines, that is, engines that don't leak. In such engines oil consumption will actually be reduced. First, because of the lower volatility of synlubes. Second, because of the better sealing characteristics between piston rings and cylinder walls. And finally, because of the superior oxidation stability (i.e. resistance of synthetics against reacting with oxygen at high temperatures.)

Myth #4: Synthetic lubricants are not compatible with petroleum.

Untrue. The synthesized hydrocarbons, polyalphaolefins, diesters and other materials that form the base stocks of high quality name brand synthetics are fully compatible with petroleum oils. In the old days, some companies used untested ingredients that were not compatible, causing quality synlubes to suffer a bum rap. Fortunately, those days are long gone.

Compatibility is something to keep in mind, however, whether using petroleum oils or synthetics. It is usually best to use the same oil for topping off that you have been running in the engine. That is, it is preferable to not mix your oils, even if it is Valvoline or Quaker State you are using. The reason is this: the functions of additives blended for specific characteristics can be offset when oils with different additive packages are put together. For optimal performance, it is better to use the same oil throughout.

Myth#5: Synthetic lubricants are not readily available.

Untrue. This may have been the case two decades ago when AMSOIL and Mobil1 were the only real choices, but today nearly every major oil company has added a synthetic product to their lines. This in itself is a testament to the value synthetics offer. But, beware, many of the other "syntheitcs" are not true PAO (Polyalphaolefin) syntheitcs (ie: Castrol Syntec, Penzoil, etc...) they are hydroisomerized petroleum oil or an ester based synthetic blend.

Myth #6: Synthetic lubricants produce sludge.

Untrue. In point of fact, synthetic motor oils are more sludge resistant than their petroleum counterparts, resisting the effects of high temperatures and oxidation. In the presence of high temperatures, two things happen. First, an oil's lighter ingredients boil off, making the oil thicker. Second, many of the complex chemicals found naturally in petroleum basestocks begin to react with each other, forming sludges, gums and varnishes. One result is a loss of fluidity at low temperatures, slowing the timely flow of oil to the engine for vital engine protection. Further negative effects of thickened oil include the restriction of oil flow to critical areas, greater wear and loss of fuel economy.

Because of their higher flash points, and their ability to withstand evaporation loss and oxidation, synthetics are much more resistant to sludge development.

Two other causes of sludge - ingested dirt and water dilution - can be a problem in any kind of oil, whether petroleum or synthetic. These are problems with the air filtration system and the cooling system resoectively, not the oil.

Myth #7: Synthetics can't be used with catalytic converters or oxygen sensors.

Untrue. There is no difference between synthetic and petroleum oils in regards to these components. Both synthetic and petroleum oils are similar compounds and neither si damaging to catalytic converters or oxygen sensors.

Myth #8: Synthetics void warranties.

Untrue. No major manufacturer of automobiles specifically bans the use of synthetic lubricants. In point of fact, increasing numbers of high performance cars are arriving on the showroom floors with synthetic motor oils as factory fill.

New vehicle warranties are based upon the use of oils meeting specific API Service Classifications (for example SG/CE). Synthetic lubricants which meet current API Service requirements are perfectly suited for use in any vehicle without affecting the validity of the new car warranty. In point of fact, in the over 25 years that AMSOIL Synthetic Lubricants have been used in extended service situations, over billions of miles of actual driving, these oils have not been faulted once for voiding an automaker's warranty.

Myth #9: Synthetics last forever.

Untrue. Although some experts feel that synthetic basestocks themselves can be used forever, it is well known that eventually the additives will falter and cause the oil to require changing. Moisture, fuel dilution and acids (the by-products of combustion) tend to use up additives in an oil, allowing degradation to occur.

However , by "topping off", additives can be replenished. Through good filtration and periodic oil analysis, synthetic motor oils protect an engine for lengths of time far beyond the capability of non-synthetics.

Myth #10: Synthetics are too expensive.

Untrue. Tests and experience have proven that synthetics can greatly extend drain intervals, provide better fuel economy, reduce engine wear and enable vehicles to operate with greater reliability. All these elements combine to make synthetic engine oils more economical that conventional non-synthetics.
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Old 03-15-2011
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Re: synthetic oil a waste of money?

I just swapped over from conventional to synthetic and it has to got to be one of my better choices. The engine runs smoother, I can tell especially when I engine brake. And the engine temperature used to stop at about half way up, now it’s only a third. And it might just be me but I seem to accelerate a heck of a lot faster than it used to.
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Old 03-15-2011
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Re: synthetic oil a waste of money?

which synthetic, how many miles, and did you notice any oil being burnt/lost?
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Re: synthetic oil a waste of money?

i've been useing AMSOIL 5w30 15,000 mile inf i love that stuff but i think im going to switch to mobile 1 because amsoil is just to much.
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Old 03-15-2011
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Re: synthetic oil a waste of money?

Originally Posted by lowlife9
i've been useing AMSOIL 5w30 15,000 mile inf i love that stuff but i think im going to switch to mobile 1 because amsoil is just to much.
How much do you pay for it?

It only costs me $30 an oil change to use royal purple.
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Old 03-15-2011
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Re: synthetic oil a waste of money?

i think it cost me close to 60 dollars for the oil and amsoil filter. there is onley one shop that sells it in my area i belive its cheaper online though.
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