Massey204

Hi this is my first post on my first forumn so dont judge me.
Im going to try installing a viper 350 plus alarm system in my 01 civic dx sedan but have never done anything like this before. I was wondering if there are any diys for any similar alarms on here, id also like to have the keyless entry work, i got power doors but no stock keyless. So overall is it worth it to do myself or should i seek proffesional help?

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

it is a lot of wire splicing and bending in strange positions under the dash and running wires to the engine bay. i know how to do it and would not recommend it. you really need to know where the wires go, how to splice and cut properly, and run wiring safely. its very easy to mess up if youve never done it. also, i still believe alarms are useless, and you will be messing up quite a bit of the stock wiring. i know many people will not get one just because there is so much wire cutting and splicing involved. alarms rarely deter theft. i am not a thief and can break into a car without damaging it in 20 secs. then i can disable the alarm sound in 10 secs, and then disable the whole alarm and starter kill in 30 secs. in under a minute you have no alarm anymore. best advice i can give you is never leave anything of value in the car. 01 civics are not very popular cars to steal, and they do have factory security systems that disable fuel and ignition if the right key is not used. this is far better than any aftermarket alarm can offer. since thieves do not care about stealing the car, they only break in to steal items of value inside. so again, keep the car clean and dont leave anything inside that can lure a thief.

Massey204

thanks for the quick reply, I think i might get my friends uncle who used to install immobilizers to do it then. The main reason i wanna install it is for the keyless entry cause my locks freeze up in the winter and i got the system for cheap.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

okay but if you have a DX, i dont think you have power locks right? so you will have to at least swap in the EX latch assembly with actuator motor for each door, then wire it to the alarm so they lock and unlock. adding an alarm only works to add keyless entry if your car came with power locks but not keyless remote (like the LX).

MarkoPollo

yo yo. two questions in regards to headlights.

is it possible to get HIDs in low/highbeam or do they just function as low beams?

are there any good projectors that out perform upgraded H4s? if so what do you recommend? (I'm talking output not looks).

MindBomber

Search Morimoto Mini projectors, Marko.

Shift-E, Darksoldier, Sl33pyriceboi and others have all run them for a bit. Straight plug and play, no modification to the reflector housing like with a traditional retrofit. A D2S HID bulb has both a low beam and high beam.

Gearbox is the undisputed HID master though, so I'm looking forward to his response.

MarkoPollo

I don't want to spend to much time on them. I'm getting a new paintjob and I'm going to pull the bumper off to put in a RS grill and throw some fogs in. I bought a set of smoked all chrome (without amber) headlights but I'm thinking the boys in blue aren't going to dig the smoke.

I'm thinking either these:


with some decent Sylvania SilverStars that I picked up for the smokes or some projectors off ebay that are ready to go without too much work. Or maybe I should just stick with the smokes?

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

the aftermarket "oem style" headlight reflectors are absolute garbage.if you want different looking stock halogens, be sure to keep the oem honda reflector for h4. if you want hid, there are a few bixenon projectors i know that fit in these lights. the easiest is the FX35 projector due to its size, altho one member fitted acura TL units which are the best but also very big. both have excellent performance and are lo/hi beam. for the hi beam, a solenoid moves the cutoff shield down to expose more light. the bulb remains in the same position.

MarkoPollo

Yeah I've got aftermarket oem style ones in right now.

what's entailed in installig the FXis there a DIY?

MindBomber

Fx35 still requires cutting the reflector housings and mounting them, that's why half the people with projectors on this site are using morimotos.

MarkoPollo

Right now all i have is the sh*t TYC wanna-bee OEM style and a pair of new smoked aftermarket pair to work with.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

if you want easy and foolproof install without doing any cutting to the headlight, morimoto mini h1 is the way to go. it screws into the H4 bulb hole and comes with adapters so the beam will be straight. they perform almost as good as the fx projectors too.

MarkoPollo

if i do the H1 retrofit can i use the crappy reflectors? i dont think the projectors utilize the reflextors right?

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

correct, projector has self contained optics. they will work the same fired up in the air or in the oem reflector.

lollygagger

Hey GB I know the forums are always praising the Morimoto Minis for the EM2 housings. Just curious, for the EP3 is there a better one that would work? What I'm saying is I'm sure the Mini's would work, but since the housings are different, is there something else I could use that might be higher quality?

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

mini h1 is prolly the best and it should fit the ep3 housings too. there really isnt anything better unless you want to cut up the headlights to fit something else.

AkStalker

Hello GB looking for a good hot wire that i can splice an interior glow kit into the driver/passenger floor boards. something easy to get to and not have to take off any panels (if thats possible) i do have subs wired in. can i splice into those?

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

you can splice into the sub hot wire, and add a switch, but usually its difficult due to the wire being so thick. the easiest is the 12v socket assembly and if you have 01-02 civic, that trim panel pulls right out.

03civict

hey GB just wondering if you know what fair price would be for these projectors, or even a site you know of to get them. Just needs to ship to Canada.

thanks bud, cheers.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

www.theretrofitsource.com

T2D

Hey. Im looking to replace my thermostat, because the car intermittently over heats (hot/cold, hot/cold…). I cant find a DIY for the life of me, and have never worked on it or the radiator before.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

its fairly simple. first get under the bumper and look for an opening in the black plastic lower cover. there should be a white twist valve for the radiator. loosen that with your fingers til coolant starts coming out and catch it in a pan. you can take the radiator cap off to make it drain faster. you may as well change the coolant too since it will be mostly drained out. then remove the upper radiator hose from the engine and remove the two bolts holding the thermostat housing (the round bubble piece that the hose was connected to). replace with the new one in the same position as the old one. i believe there is a pin, so it will only fit one way. make sure to use the new gasket that should come with it. i would only recommend a genuine honda oem thermostat. other off brands (like stant) are built with inferior quality and can cause the engine to run hotter. if you compare them side by side you will see the huge differences. once everything is back on and you reconnect the hose, close the radiator valve and start slowly pouring coolant in the radiator til its full. close the cap and drive the car til it reaches full operating temp. park the car on an incline and turn it off. wrap several shop towels around the radiator cap and open it carefully. coolant will spray out a bit. leave the cap off and start the car. turn heater control dial to full HOT to allow coolant to circulate to the heater core. rev the engine periodically and watch for bubbles coming from the coolant in the radiator. keep adding coolant to keep the level topped up. you can squeeze/slap the top and bottom hoses to speed up the process. when bubbles stop, put the cap on and drive the car. with the heater on HOT, listen for any water bubble noises coming from the dash when accelerating. if you still hear noises, you need to do the air bleed procedure again. most of the air should be out, but the remaining small bubbles will come out by themselves over time. you do not need to turn the heater fan on, since these cars open the heater control valve based on the temp dial setting and not fan speed. leave the car parked overnight and check the level of coolant in the white plastic overflow tank in the morning when cold. adjust the level so that it reads MAX. monitor the level over the next week and be sure it stays on max. as additional air pockets get moved out, the level could drop.

evivesg

Dear Friends,

Good morning,

A few days ago to buy my honda civic 2007 in USA, and was imported to Costa Rica, the stereo I requests a code to be used, the car does not have manuals or the anti-theft ID card.

As I can do to get this code?

On the Internet there is a page to do so: https://radio-navicode.honda.com/
but I request a Zip code that I have not then I can not get what I need.

Thank you very much for your help.

regards

Vin: 2HGFA15517H304432
The serial# of the device you want to unlock. For year 2001 and later models, you may obtain the serial# from the device display.
Serial: 26088302

T2D

Thanks, that was the ticket! I was exactly sure where the thermostat was housed, but the "bubble" identifier worked.

One last question: I stupidly overfilled the overflow tank, it is almost right to the top. Is this a concern? If it is, how would I drain it? Would I just use the same petcock, and drain that?

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

no, the overflow tank is not really connected to the radiator other than the tube. what you need to do is either pull out the small hose from the bottom of the overflow tank and let some drain out, or use a siphon pump kit from the auto store to suck some out from the top (may be difficult due to the curves in the tank). the coolant overflow does rise when you drive the car and everything gets hot. at least 3-4 inches above the max line is what ive seen for my car. if the level is way up by the cap, you will have coolant spill onto the street. tip: i recently just replaced the whole overflow tank tube that goes to the radiator. that plastic connector they put to splice the two hoses together was leaking so i got one long hose kit and replaced the whole thing.

shocker1994

93 honda civic 5 spd 1.5 l tach ometer can you help me with some info on how to install?

Kellyas

Hello,

I have a 2009 civic lx-s...in the last month or so I've noticed my recirculation button and the rear defrost button lights do not light up. Both functions still operate just fine, but the lights don't work.

Are these bulbs that can be replaced fairly easily? If so, is there a manual or set of directions on how to get to them and what specific bulbs need to be used?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

im not so good with the newer civics, but you will need to remove the trim piece with the buttons, similar to when changing the radio. and then the light bulbs should unscrew from the back. you may need special base bulbs from the honda dealer. thats assuming the icon is the one that is not lighting up (when the park lights are turned on). the indicator lights that tell you when the button is pressed are leds i believe and not servicable.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

looks like two different bulbs are used, 6 and 8 in the pic.

Rufus

iTrader: (17)

How the fudge is this thread still going?