Headgasket Replacement (Some peekchurs)
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Rep Power: 355 Headgasket Replacement (Some peekchurs)
Hey guys,
I thought I'd put some pics up for you guys. This certainly isn't a DIY but I wish I had seen stuff like this when I first bought my car. I just replaced my headgasket due to a leak and here are some pics of it going back together. When I was in my teens the thought of taking my car apart scared thecrap out of me, but when you actually get in there and do it a few times it becomes a lot easier. I bet everyone on this site knows their own engine like the back of their hand. This install included ARP headstuds so you'll see the studs in a few pics along with my AEM camgear for Kpro. ARP recommends 60ft/lbs for the nuts. I read people on HT going to 80ftlbs, so I compromised at 70ftlbs. Should be good for only 6lbs of boost. If you have any questions, let me know and I'll be happy to help.
I thought I'd put some pics up for you guys. This certainly isn't a DIY but I wish I had seen stuff like this when I first bought my car. I just replaced my headgasket due to a leak and here are some pics of it going back together. When I was in my teens the thought of taking my car apart scared thecrap out of me, but when you actually get in there and do it a few times it becomes a lot easier. I bet everyone on this site knows their own engine like the back of their hand. This install included ARP headstuds so you'll see the studs in a few pics along with my AEM camgear for Kpro. ARP recommends 60ft/lbs for the nuts. I read people on HT going to 80ftlbs, so I compromised at 70ftlbs. Should be good for only 6lbs of boost. If you have any questions, let me know and I'll be happy to help.
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Wow. That was a good amount of work there. I am glad to see it is put back together with a new gasket and headstuds. Props on doing it yourself.
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damnit, im doing this this upcoming weekend, and now uve got me debating leaving the intake mani in the bay instead of pulling it with the head(doing a lx to ex headswap) do u think 80 ft/lbs is too much to run on this?
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That seems like overkill lol.
I read so many DIY on headstuds and some people bitch and complain about "you need to do this" "do that".
Look for the posts of the guys that say just follow directions and you'll be fine. Once I read a guys post that said he was at 400whp, followed the instructions, went to 75 and hasn't popped the VC on his DD in 1.5 years, I was convinced. 70ftlbs should be fine
I read so many DIY on headstuds and some people bitch and complain about "you need to do this" "do that".
Look for the posts of the guys that say just follow directions and you'll be fine. Once I read a guys post that said he was at 400whp, followed the instructions, went to 75 and hasn't popped the VC on his DD in 1.5 years, I was convinced. 70ftlbs should be fine
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yea, thats good to know, i think ill go 80 and call it a day, doin this tomorrow, pending no rain(maybe even if it rains)
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Adam, it's a lot easier to leave the IM on the head when you pull the head off. You just have make sure you get all the wiring, vacuum lines and the coolant lines disconnected and there are three nuts that hold the IM to the braces underneath it. Trying to get all the IM nuts off while it's still on the car is real bitch.
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^^ sooo true. The IM it a pain but here is the secret.
There are three nuts accessible from the top on the sides and middle of the manifold. An open box wrench fits in here. To save time, purchase a self rachetting open box. To reinstall use a magnet to guide it, then finger tighten.
Also, the three nuts on the bottom (1 on the left, 2 on the right) will allow you to pull the manifold back and keep it in the car.
There are three nuts accessible from the top on the sides and middle of the manifold. An open box wrench fits in here. To save time, purchase a self rachetting open box. To reinstall use a magnet to guide it, then finger tighten.
Also, the three nuts on the bottom (1 on the left, 2 on the right) will allow you to pull the manifold back and keep it in the car.
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Yeah, but it gets real old tightening them down when you only have about 10 degrees of wrench movement even with a ratcheting box wrench. To each their own, but I'd rather leave it attached the head when pulling it. One less gasket to change as well.
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i left my IM in the car when i changed mine. only the three nuts on the bottom gave me a hard time, and that was putting them back on (no magnet handy )
it also helps when your ratcheting wrenches only require 5 degrees to turn the nut as well
it also helps when your ratcheting wrenches only require 5 degrees to turn the nut as well
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wtf? magic double post, like 10 mins later....
Last edited by tuningmycivic; 07-08-2008 at 08:15 PM. Reason: see post :P
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same here !
but i didnt see the zip tie... and read your post and was like.. "OHHH ! im an idiot"
but good stuff RUFUS.. i need to do my drive belts soon.. and my front mount.. and my timing belt..
GOD DAMN..
but i didnt see the zip tie... and read your post and was like.. "OHHH ! im an idiot"
but good stuff RUFUS.. i need to do my drive belts soon.. and my front mount.. and my timing belt..
GOD DAMN..
#27
Re: Headgasket Replacement (Some peekchurs)
Changing the timing belt is a pain in the ***, i should know, i tried and failed miserably. ended up taking it to the dealer who charged me $650 + tax.
Good luck with it though, you should have no problem doing it.
Good luck with it though, you should have no problem doing it.
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okay thread jack, where can i get that special wrench the manual talks about to change primary O2 sensor?