Scubard

I have been reading this forum and have read a lot of helpful advice. Thank you.
This is my first post.

I am the original owner of a 2008 Honda Civic Hybrid. I recently went over 200,000 miles. I have never had any problems until the past few months.

Initial Problem: Check Engine light came on and car wouldn't start. Dealer discovered broken coil connector for one of the spark plugs. Replaced coil and dealer performed software update.

After this problem was fixed, the IMA light came on along with the Check Engine light. Also, if car sat for more than a day, it would not start. The car battery is only 2 years old. I jumped it and it started and then seemed to drive fine. The IMA and Check Engine lights went out. The car will start and act like there isn't a lot of starting power, however, if it sits for any more than a day and a half, it requires a jump start.

Three days ago, the Check Engine light came back on and no air would come out of the vents. The A/C Blower wasn't working. After driving for awhile, the A/C started working on it's own.

Current Problem: The A/C Blower stopped working again an is not coming back on this time. I pulled out the Blower Transistor and read infinity across the Thermal Cutout Switch, so I think the Transistor is good.

I haven't checked the fuse yet (not sure exactly which one it is yet), but if it is not the fuse and it is not the Transistor, then what?

Thank you for any help you may be able to offer.

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

Congrats on 200k !!

Try leaving the fan on at low/med speed and reach in through the lowered glove box and removed tray holding cabin filter. Spin the white plastic squirrel cage fan and see if the blower starts working.

ezone

I think that means it's bad, not good?

Does the blower motor have both power and ground? If not, which is missing?

Remove the connector from the blower transistor. You have 2 skinny wires and 2 fatter wires. Jumper the fat wires together with a paper clip or wire, see if the fan runs.


Check out the blower transistor fix here (link) http://www.hondasuv.com/members/showthread.php?t=52805

Where this post talks about replacing the open thermal fuse, I made a couple test units by replacing that fuse with a regular automotive MIN-20 fuse. I don't do that for customers, I just made these for my own personal diagnostic shortcut.



The other thing I have been occasionally seeing is bad fan motors in the regular civics. Bang on the bottom of the motor and it would go again for a while.

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If the 12v battery is dying after 2 days, you may have a drain on the system. Ammeter checks.

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At that mileage and year of car, I'd expect it needs the IMA battery replaced. What codes are in it?

Scubard

Thank you. I will try suggestions today. Where should I take Ammeter Checks to see if there is a drain on the system?

ezone

Usually the neg battery cable. Plus you usually should wait 15-20 minutes to allow all the computers to go into "sleep" mode whenever the car is shut down or the battery has been disconnected and reconnected.

I use an inductive clamp on meter.