TENN.VOL.

Have an option to replace with a 08 or 09 engine.What I need
to know, is how do I tell if the 09 engine has the NEW block?
The born on date is 04-09, vin# 2HFA163X9H519453...
Do I have to talk to the stealer? Thanks in advance for any help.
TENN.VOL.

lazlong

If you have the "old" block it should be covered under the recall. Take it back to the dealer and make them fix it.

ezone

Define "LOST" an engine.
(I bet you can find it hiding under the hood!)

Are you in the USA?

NOT all engine problems can be covered. Only the cracked block problem is covered. You can whine to the customer assistance hotline if you want, too.

THIS is what is covered: Block cracked, leaked all the coolant out, overheated, ran until it quit.

Read my posts here (read the entire damned thread):

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...ml#post4576543

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...ml#post4576599

WARRANTY. 8 years. Unlimited mileage. Call a dealer, have it towed in. Get yourself a loaner on Hondas dime.

If it threw a rod or whatever, due to neglect, it's not warranty:
IF the engine job has to be on YOUR dime, get your mitts on this Honda bulletin 10-048, there is a VIN# break for 09 model year.

Your VIN# is incomplete.
The last similar vin in the bulletin is 2HGFA1...9H512463, your posted vin appears to be later than that cutoff, so the engine should be the newer version. Double check it for yourself in the bulletin.

TENN.VOL.

The engine ate 3.5 qt. in less than 3 K miles, lost a rod, the idiot light did not
activate. Bought the car with 82K, suspect it was sold because of the excessive
oil use. Car does NOT smoke, even now. ASE master mechanic said the cat is
cleaning it up. Have the option to purchase an 08 engine with no paper for $750,
or another 08 with paper (low milage) $900. Last 09 with paper work and 18K.
Priced at $1000. Going with the 09 at this time. Tenn.Vol. lives in VA.

ezone

OK, so that isn't going to be a warranty matter.

Did you learn anything from this? Check your oil with every tank of gas! Teach your children this! Pass it down! (LOL)
(Note: Consumption of a quart per 1000 miles can be called acceptable. It is up to YOU to keep it full!)
The engine only holds 4 quarts at an oil change. A half quart is barely enough to keep the light off, but certainly not enough to keep the engine alive.

Yes, a cat can hide a LOT of oil smoke. Oil burning will slowly poison the cat though. Make sure your new engine comes with the cat still attached.

If the 09 VIN# is newer than the VIN# cutoff I posted, I'd go with that.

Make sure to check oil OFTEN until you establish how much it is going to use. Check it more frequently as the miles rack up.

Another tip: Use the proper oil. 5w20. Pennzoil Platinum Plus, Kendall GT-1 Ultimate synthetic, and Mobil 1 synthetic are all great. The Kendall is the closest thing you can get to what we use at the dealer right now (ConocoPhillips).

Incorrect oils can cause carbon buildup and make the oil control rings stick. This is a major cause of oil consumption.
Lack of proper oil change intervals is another cause. Neglect is a killer. Also causes timing chain problems.

Use HIGH QUALITY oil and follow the maintenance minder. (RTFM)
If you use cheapo oil, you will just cause yourself problems in the long run. Cheap oil can't last as long as the maintenance minder will go.

TENN.VOL.

Thanks for the input,EZONE!
My ASE mech. did a skan and said it looks as tho it has ingested
the cat. Engine is still running good with a slight bottom tick.
Another question for you, do you know if the 09 has the same
CPU (engne) as the 08? You know what happens when one assumes!
Thank you again for all the help.When I find out for sure I will get back.
Tenn.Vol.

ezone

PCM for 09 VIN# 2HGFA163X9H519453 (DX-VP) is 37820-RNA-A73, the part # does NOT match any choice I see for any version of 08.

Knowing exactly what YOUR car is would have been a big help in looking this up.

The updated engine block in the campaign info is the same part number as the 09 block for your given VIN#. It's a match.
Looks to me like the head is the same too.


Oh yeah, the CKP learn procedure needs to be done after the engine swap. Remind your tech about this. I have no idea if non-factory scanners can do this procedure.

lazlong

Yes but, you'll have to hand 'em your paycheck for one.

ezone

*I* don't have to. I have HDS software on this laptop, along with another laptop of my own at work. I just don't have an MVCI box of my own to go with it.

I also have an older Mastertech scanner with scope hardware, and an NGS scanner for older Ford and Mazda. I rarely have a need to use these anymore.

/I know, all this is irrelevant to the OP.


I'd think an hour labor charge for a dealer tech to do the relearn would be average, if it came down to that. The new engine will run just fine without doing it, but misfire detection abilities won't be accurate until this is done. It could set false misfire codes if it isn't done.

TENN.VOL.

ezone, Thanks again for trying to lead the blind! As a wordsmith
I am not. I will try to brake it down.
Can we say with any degree of certainly this swap will be a
PLUG & PLAY? I have an 08, civic 4 dr. with a manual tran.
Looking to purchase just the engine, out of the 09, civic 4 dr.
with an auto tran. The 09 civic has the NEW block!
Yes I am aware that the ECM MAY need a relearn.
I did remember after you brought it to my attention anyway.
Just trying to cover ALL the bases. Dont want an O-CHIT
moment, been there done that....................Tenn.Vol.

ezone

The engine blocks will swap. I can't say if there are differences in sensors or manifolds or anything, but the engine blocks are the same. My guess is that everything is the same, but I can't be positive without a whole bunch of work. I hate most used engine swaps for this very reason, although I don't mind replacing the block and head near as much.

A wrecking yard will have access to a Hollander interchange guide. THAT'S what you need to consult for this swap info.


If you really want to look parts stuff up, DIY: http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/ and http://estore.honda.com/





Definite: You will have to change the flywheel/flexplate, and you will need to install a pilot bushing in the end of the crankshaft. Don't even bother trying to save and reuse the old one.

22103-RNA-004 is the bushing, I show $13.38 retail for it.
You will have the rest of the hardware you need on the old engine.

You will definitely have to swap the wiring harnesses. The auto/manual difference is why.

Starter appears to be different for AT or MT.

And: Gaskets and seals for anything else that gets swapped from one engine to another.
MT Fluid. PS fluid. Coolant. etc.
Freon, maybe. Depends on how your guy wants to drop the mess out.


I drop the engine and trans with everything still attached, AC/PS/Alt/Serp belt/wiring all still attached. I can have the whole mess on the floor in under 2 hours without breaking a sweat.

Everything goes out the bottom. I drop the subframe assembly out first, then drop the engine and trans onto a movers dolly, then push the assembly out from under the car, and do the rest of my work somewhere else more comfortable.

HTH

TENN.VOL.

Thanks again ezone! Just heard that the 09 engine is on the floor.
I told him I would pick it up early next wk. May be a wk or two
till we get a-round-toit.....I will be back, Later!.............Tenn.Vol.

TENN.VOL.

We started the engine exchange today. Upon removing the cat we found that a
gray powder (much finer than sand) was all over the input of the cat.
Upon inverting the cat and tapping it with the ball of our hand we did get a small
amount to puddle on the table.
This was my mechanic first SWAG, as he has seen it several time in OTHER jap
auto. That is, that the cat will chit itself and the engine will injest this gray powder.
we are thining about puttng headers on the 09 engine so as this does not happen
again..............Tenn.Vol.

ezone

Look at what you have there. There is no way to have a "header". The manifold is cast into and part of the cylinder head.
The only thing you could do is install a hollow pipe or gutted cat. I can't do that because of the laws I have to follow.
You would still have to deal with cat codes if it is missing.





The gray crap in your old cat? It's probably just ash from the oil consumption.
See if the residue is magnetic.
Pull the head off and see what damage is evident in the cylinders.
Don't believe blind speculation and guesses. Everything can be proven.
You already know the engine chucked a rod from loss of oil, correct? The cat didn't cause it.
If the honeycomb is intact at the top, then the cat didn't crap itself and the engine didn't ingest anything from it.



Didn't the new engine come with the cat? Use it, or get it from the scrapyard the engine came from.
OR If the old cat is intact, reuse it. Wait until there is a P0420 code to deal with, then jack with it.

lazlong

Words to live by.

TENN.VOL.

The 09 engine did come with its 17K miles cat.
The gray gritty powder was 95% METAL that was magnetic.
The engine has ran 4 or 5K aftr it droped the rod, (slap)
and did finally set the 240 code.
For gigles we installed a header pipe, and set the out o2 out
of the stream. No code after >1K miles.
Started the change over this evening after work.
Thanks for all the input. ...........Tenn.Vol.

ezone

You must not have to deal with emissions testing in your area.

*Hugs a tree*

TENN.VOL.

It came together without a hitch, all new fluids along with new clutch system.
Thanks for all the helpful input, especially EZONE for the research he did!
Tenn.Vol.