topkart66

Hi all, Happy New Year

I didn't think I would be searching the net and forums about this car, apparently Hondas are not what they used to be.

I have a 06 LX we acquired from family earlier in the year and now has 18K on it. I figuired, keep up the maintence and I should'nt have any problems till at least 100K. Wife calls, car is making a loud noise, tell her to hold the phone to the grill. WTF very mechanical noise, I tell her shut it off I'll be right over.

As for my background, I used to work for Chevy on the line, and then as an engine builder at an engine oil development lab, I have been out of car buisness for over 15 years, but still do all of my own repairs and maintence.

On the engine I can see the tensioner is rubbing the water pump pulley so somthing failed there.

Im thinking I can't be the only one for this, so I hit the net and find all the info on the 2006's breaking the bolt, and see the TSB on it but ours is above the vin sequence on the TSB. I call the dealer an they run the vin and say the wheel bearing recall has been done but no other recalls exist for our vin, your on your own.

OK, I take it apart ( I really feal for you guys that work on these, thats really tight to work in there) 2hours later I've got the tensioner out.
The bolt is broken off about 2 threads into the block.
So, my questions for the experts here: can I gain some access through the weel well ? or whats the best way?
I havent removed broken bolts in a while, any tricks to try?

Now, what have they done on the newer ones to correct this problem.
You can understand, on this design there's just to much leaverage on the bolt. I see on the TSB they change the belt routing, but there are people saying that this has happened to them three times.

Should I just use a Honda replacement bolt? or anything else I could do.

Thanks for your help, Paul.

MindBomber

I never bother with Honda replacement bolts, why pay $2.50 for a bolt the parts store gives me for free?

I would remove the wheel and the fender splash guard, that should give you access directly to the area you need to work. It's still definitely a tight space though.

Beyond that, I'm not much help, I'm sure someone else will chime in though.

topkart66

Well, I can get a almost straight shot at it when I loosen the engine mount fasteners on that side and it drops down about an inch.
I'm just waiting until the supply opens on Tues. to get a left hand drill bit, I want to take every action I can to get the piece out without butchering the block.

As for new parts, I see the 2007 and up tensioner is a different part number, does anyone know whats different about it? Bolt size? in pictures I've seen it looks the same( if the pics are correct).

Does anyone know the size of the bolt, I may try to get a "unbreako" bolt.
I see Gates makes a Solutions Kit 39054K, I coud try that, anyone use it ?Once I put this back together I would like it to be reliable.

Really appreciate any help here
Thanks

SpdySylvrEX

I think you are on the right track for removing that bolt. I on the other hand would use and actual bolt extractor. Drill into the bolt, and slowly use the extractor to back it out...A hammer works real good to tap the extractor in...be careful not to hit the block, they are aluminum and you will jack it up quick....

as far as the other parts I am not sure...I usually just call Honda and ask them about part number differences....

ezone

One step would be to call the 1-800 customer assistance number in your owners manual. Be polite, be professional. See what they will do for you. This may get the local DPSM and dealer involved if cust. assistance decides it's worthwhile.

Google these documents, check your VIN# to see if they apply to your car
09-007
08-038
08-039
IF someone did one of the recalls and didn't torque properly, the bolt can snap off.
Post your VIN, I can run it from here to check for recalls.

You could lower the subframe for clearance on that side.

I could have that engine on the ground in a little over an hour.

Left-hand bit = good choice. If you booger the threads, you need an engine block.

Bolt is an Allen head, IDK what you can find out there, I use OEM and proper torque. I have only seen one break off and I didn't get to do that job.

topkart66

"IF someone did one of the recalls and didn't torque properly, the bolt can snap off.
Post your VIN, I can run it from here to check for recalls.

You could lower the subframe for clearance on that side."

Thanks Ezone,

I am aware of the 09-007 TSB, as you can see our vin is above the sequence. I did contact a dealer , he said besides the rear weel bearings no other recal exixted, I took that to mean nothing was done to it.
We have had it since 7K miles. I checked the body vin, no punch marks.

Vin 1HGFA16506L126321

Any idea besides the belt routing what they changed to fix this, I see the newer tensioners (2007up)have a different part num (Gates replacement)

I'm so far into it now I don't know what Honda could do for me, I will call though.

So when I put it back together use 40 ft#

Thanks for your help

ezone

Ok, that was interesting....The Honda site knows I'm using the VIN inquiry outside of regular hours. LOL.
Your rear bearing recall was done.
No other recalls.
You are eligible for the warranty extensions on the block cracking (10-048) and sunvisors (11-031).


I looked at 06 07 08, on the tensioner. There are vin# breaks and supercessions in 07 and 08. No clue what the differences are.
96700-10055-18, bolt, same for the 3 years checked. No way of knowing if it was changed from original design.
31170-RNA-A02 is what Honda site says is the correct tensioner assy for that VIN#.

40 ft/lb on the allen bolt.
10 ft/lb on the water pump pulley bolts.

I doubt anyone bothers punching the VIN plate. I know we don't at the shop.
We have to go by the VIN report from the manufacturer for recalls so it doesn't matter what we would see on the vin plate as far as punching it.

Louviere34

ezone

Use a brand new tensioner assembly and brand new bolt from Honda and torque it (the Allen bolt) to 40 foot pounds.
If you need a water pump pulley, get 3 new bolts for it too and torque those to 10 foot pounds.
Check calibration of your torque wrenches first. If your torque wrench is inaccurate, that is not good.