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Hi All,

I'm new to this forum, found lot of good info while reading this forum. So I thought one or some of the expert members will be able help me.

In short, I did a Civic engine + trans swap, but at the end I'm unable to start the engine. My 2K EX had about 180K miles on it D16Y8 VTEC engine. I decided to swap it to another engine w/ much lower mileage. I found a D16Y7 non-vtec (DX model I believe) and decided to swap the Y8 w/ the Y7. After reading several forums, I understood that it should work, hence I decided to go w/ the project. My Civic EX was perfectly good running car, went for the swap just to extend its life.

I had to swap the followings - ( btw the swap was Engine plus Trans together)

i. Y8 IM and TB on to Y7
ii. Y8 Dizzy into Y7 Head for Harness Connector for Y8 connector is different from Y7.
iii. Y8 had extra three Sensors - VTEC solenoid etc, which I left them unplugged.

iv. I'm using Y8 ECU i.e P2P


At the end, two strange things has happened.

a. Trans position will move, I'd to use the key to push into side hole near Trans Lever and move it to N. So it seems as if the Lock Control on the Trans some how got activated.

b. With the trans lever in Neutral or Park, the car won't fire. It will turn but the engine simply will NOT start at all.


So any idea what has happened ? I was told by the seller that Y7 Motor+Trans came from a perfectly running car.

Thnks in adv.

- Azhar

 
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Im a bit confused. You have an EX and you swapped the head onto a Y7 engine and put it in your EX? Or you put your EX engine into a DX car?

If the lever wont release in the shifter then there is a brake switch issue. When you hit the brake the piston in the shifter releases allowing you to push the button to change gears. The ecu requires this signal to start the car as well. Clarify for me a little bit, I can help you a lot more that way.

1. The ecu you are using, was it yours from the original AT EX you had?
2. What engine is in what car?
3. When you bridge the green plug above the ECU does a code come up?

 
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Thnk u much Running Riot.

Here is further clarification -

I removed the original EX D16Y8 Engine and Trans out of the Engine Bay. Prepared the D16Y7 - a DX Engine Trans Combo bcuz this combo went back in to the engine bay.

By D16Y7 prep I mean - I removed the TB and IM from Y7 and replaced it w/ my Y8 IM and TB. Then I found out that the Dizzy connector on Y7 does NOT mate the Y8 connector that I left in the engine bay. The EB still had my original ECU i.e a P2P I believe.

Since there was NO Spark even w/ Y8 original ECU, I then swapped to Y7 ECU. But the wiring harness is still the original Y8. I do not have Y7 harness. But even w/ Y7 ECU there is no Spark. There is fuel in the rails tho, for I can smell gas after I trying couple of times. The cranks cranks / turns but no spark.

The Dizzy firing order as I read it Clock-wize, 4321 ; #4 is at 10 o'clock ; #1 at 7 o'clock.


Awaiting your or any one's advise.
Thnx again

 
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The firing order is 1-3-4-2 with #1 beign at 10 oclock looking at the dizzy. Cylinder 1 is the one closest to the driver. Then wire 3 should go at about the 12 oclock cylinder 4 should be at about 2 oclock. Thats how the wires should be run. Now as far as the plug snot mating, that could be the reason you don't have ignition. The plugs are different, MUCH different from the Y8 and the Y7 because of course the vtec mechanism.


you may have to hard wire but this should help make sure all the wires are going in the right place, it may be redundant but the above diagram is always a good one to have. Ideally, you want the same ecu as the distributor you are using. Try this and let me know.

 
Rep Power: 223

The firing order is 1-3-4-2 with #1 beign at 10 oclock looking at the dizzy. Cylinder 1 is the one closest to the driver. Then wire 3 should go at about the 12 oclock cylinder 4 should be at about 2 oclock. Thats how the wires should be run. Now as far as the plug snot mating, that could be the reason you don't have ignition. The plugs are different, MUCH different from the Y8 and the Y7 because of course the vtec mechanism.


you may have to hard wire but this should help make sure all the wires are going in the right place, it may be redundant but the above diagram is always a good one to have. Ideally, you want the same ecu as the distributor you are using. Try this and let me know.

 
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Thnx RunningRiot

From your F.O 1-3-4-2 , your location of #1 Cyl / Piston is closest to the driver side Fender or that is, if I face the Car/ the Engine, #1 is the right most - is that Correct ?

But I'm confused about ur description of Dist plug / wire #3 which u say is at 12 o'clock ? Then u say #4 is at 2 o'clock. Is #3 is typo ? Can u provide me w/ all four wire clock positions ? These four wires headers are almost in a square configuration.

Now about the Dizzy Connector and ECU. Suppose if I use Dz from Y8 and ECU from Y8 as well, then NO OBD2/OBD1 conversion is needed. Am I right ? I used Dz from Y8 so to properly with Harness from Y8 ECU. I can put Y8 ECU back - altho it made no difference in terms of Sparks. I happen to think it must be the Dz firing order or a missing Gnd on the TB / IM or somewhere near the Dz.

Thnx again.

 
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Hi Running Riot,
I checked the Dizzy / Wiring Firing Order - compared w/ ur order of 1342, it is exactly same, where location #1 is right most near to the driver side fender. I get no spark even w/ the Y8 ECU. Can u pl. suggest what I can look ?

Thnx

 
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Hi Running Riot,
I checked the Dizzy / Wiring Firing Order - compared w/ ur order of 1342, it is exactly same, where location #1 is right most near to the driver side fender. I get no spark even w/ the Y8 ECU. Can u pl. suggest what I can look ?

Thnx

 
Rep Power: 223

are the wires connected the way they are connected in the above diagram? Check the ignition and starter signal fuses under the dash. We'll start looking at the small stuff and wokr our way up from there until we find the problem