boosted.es2

iTrader: (6)

well my car has been overheating and im boosted so i thought it would be a good idea to change out my headgasket, install some arp headstuds and change my timing belt while im at it. are there any DIYs on the site for this? anything to be careful of while im doing this? i have never torn the head off any motor. how long do you think it will take me to do it by myself? thanks!

_unclejuice

iTrader: (8)

i wouldnt do this if youve never pulled a head. not saying you cant do it, but if you havent done it, i wouldnt try it. atleast not without the service manual. you didnt list it but i would replace the water pump, seals, and gaskets too. inexspensive and youll have access to it. my advice if you do it is take your time and check everything about 50 times to make sure. make sure to rotate the motor twice by hand when everything is back together to make sure the pistons dont get friendly with the valves. if you havent bought it yet our shop does timing belt kits for about $120 for the d17 and it comes with timing belt, accessory belts, water pump, gaskets, and seals. it might take you a little over a day to do it.

XSRCivic

iTrader: (19)

and fyi I have the service manual juice is talking about, pm me for a copy in pdf format.

Da1lyDr1ver

iTrader: (6)

i'll just say the samething _UncleJuice said again.

replacing a headgasket isnt a small job, and like he said you might mess something up badly if you dont knwo what you're doing.

things to look out for??? i heard from other members on this board that the belt tensioner tends to break during this process, so get another one of those.

_unclejuice

iTrader: (8)

yeah thats one thing i forgot to mention. you need to replace the tensioner when you change the timing belt anyway. they will go bad and cause major damage if they arent replaced.

Boilermaker1

iTrader: (16)

Its pretty well spelled out in the manual. Its well worth having it on hand. Like its been stressed already, you need to do everything EXACTLY right. that includes the mundane stuff like the order and amount you undo the head bolts each time. If you dont do it like they say, you'll warp the head and end up sending the head to the shop for milling. Measure everything once its off too. If the car already is over heating, you may need to send the head in anyways.

boosted.es2

iTrader: (6)

sweet. thanks for all the help guys. i printed the cylinder head removal from the free manual off a thread in this forum. would it be a better bet to go ahead and buy the book or would it be the same thing? i was thinking since my car is down already i might as well change the headgasket and take my time on it. how much does getting the head milled usually run? im on a tight budget here.

Rufus

iTrader: (17)

First time I swapped heads it took 12 hours. Next time it took 8. Last time it took 4.

_unclejuice

iTrader: (8)

if you have the online manual youre probably good to go. you might not even have to have the head milled. if you have a straight edge and feeler guage you can check it yourself. if you havent ran it wicked hot you should be fine. you pay close attention to tightening sequences in the manual and have a damn good torque wrench handy when you put the head on. i think the arp studs go down at 60 ft lbs. check your papers to be sure. post up if you need anything else.

sql_civic

iTrader: (10)

Tips:

Make sure you use the lube that comes with the ARP studs.
ARP studs require the use of 12 point sockets. Make sure you have one.
Make sure you torque the head down in the proper sequence and steps i.e 20ft-lbs then 40, then 65. (I believe ARP go to 85 - just follow the directions).
Use a Honda OEM head gasket. Do not use copper spray - it's a waste.

Good luck.

boosted.es2

iTrader: (6)

ugh. i really want to do this but im kind of scared. lol im sure i will be able to do it with a couple buddies and maybe a whole weekend.. thank you for all your help guys. i will let everyone know how it goes.

Rufus

iTrader: (17)

It's not hard man. You'll do ok.

_unclejuice

iTrader: (8)

fyi, i wouldnt get a lot of people involved unless they are well experienced with pulling heads. youll need to concentrate on what youre doing if youve never done this before. dont let this intimidate you, but at the same time, know that its a big job and 1 slip could screw your motor. make sure you get it timed right when you put it back together and spin the motor until the #1 cylinder goes through atleast 2 compression strokes. if it gets tuff to turn, dont force it. check your timing. if it looks good, pull the head and make sure everything is ok. youll float valves in a heartbeat and be looking at some serious time in the machine shop. another tip, i would bag and label every bolt you remove. helps with reassembly.

boosted.es2

iTrader: (6)

good call on the bag and label thing, i tore so much stuff already and now i just have a big bin of nuts and bolts. im looking at it like fVck lol. im working on it, il slowly but surely get there. i cant figure out how to remove the intake manifold. i see the bolt pattern is jsut like the exhaust manifold its just in a really tight space. also i cant get my fuel rail off. i only see 1 bolt on it and its not comin off.

XSRCivic

iTrader: (19)

whats your email i'll email you the chapter on cylinder head removal.

boosted.es2

iTrader: (6)

its aquindec@yahoo.com i have one already i dont know if its the same as the one your gonna give me. thanks!

edit: i was gonna rep you but i cant lol

XSRCivic

iTrader: (19)

its on the way to your email now.

ims ending you the page for the intake manifold removal too.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

intake mani has some bolt on the bottom you cant see.

boosted.es2

iTrader: (6)

sweeetttt.. nice XSRCivic. thanks for the emails. this will help me a lot. the picture is so small in the manual i have. pretty much got everything off except the intake mani. then the head should come off correct?

_unclejuice

iTrader: (8)

the intake mani has bolts on top and bottom of the flange as well as a bracket on the bottom. youll have to get it from the underside of the car. once its off and the head bolts are out, she should lift right off. dont pry on the mating surfaces of the head and block to get it off if it gives you a fight. dont worry about reassembly. we can take pics for you or give you all the advice you need. good luck with the bucket-o-bolts tho. i know guys that can tear whole cars apart and put every nut and bolt in a bucket, reassemble the car, and not have 1 bolt left. i have to label everything if i cant finish the job in a day.

boosted.es2

iTrader: (6)

i think i will do the intake mani tomorrow. i took off turbo mani, power steering stuff, alternator, attempted to remove the fuel rail but its not moving, didnt wanna force it. i only see 1 bolt that connects the fuel rail to the engine. i have no diagrams of fuel either. anyone know? i think after i get the fuel rail and intake mani off the head should be ready to come off right? are there any aftermarket head gaskets or should i stick with the honda nippon one?

XSRCivic

iTrader: (19)

no aftermarket hg that i know of, the fuel rail has 2 bolts, nuts actually one of each end, should be highly visible. it should come off easily after you get all that off. Of course you need to remove the head bolts in sequence order. If you follow that pdf i sent you, you cant go wrong.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

its kinda late but did you relieve the fuel pressure?

boosted.es2

iTrader: (6)

i opened the gas tank door and let all the air out. then i unplugged the gas line going from the fuel rail and there was no fuel pressure, no fuel squirted out.. the car has no radiator and no coolant so i was thinking i shouldnt start the car up. is relieving fuel pressure that important?

XSRCivic

iTrader: (19)

Dont start it, lol. Relieving the fuel pressure is good so you don't shoot 20-30 psi of gasoline all over possibly blinding yourself or killing your dog. How are you coming along now?

boosted.es2

iTrader: (6)

lol yeah i wont start it now. i was saying before when i was in the process of relieving the fuel pressure. the manual says take a relay off and let the car die out or something. i jsut said screw it. im at school now on a 3 hour break. ugh im so bored. lol i lost the headphones to my ipod too. not that any of you care im just writing this cuz im bored. ahah.

im still at the same spot, next step is removing the intake manifold and fuel rail. then the head should pop off if im thinking correctly. so far this is really easy. i would never pay someone 500 bucks to replace my head gasket. lol

_unclejuice

iTrader: (8)

i thought the fuel rail had 3 bolts. 1 on each end and one in the middle. i know theres a bracket on the fuel rail that has two bolts on it, i think the stock airbox mounts there. but i thought the rail had 3 nuts. maybe its the b18 im thinking about. anyway, once you get them off you might have to pry the rail off a little. the injectors have o rings that tend to get stuck if theyve been there a while.

XSRCivic

iTrader: (19)

Its only 2 i'm sure, I've pulled that thing off more than anyone on this forum combined. that bracket you speak of is just that and nothing more.. I actually forgot to put it back on and left it off ever since, no harm, no foul..
I second the fuel rail stickyness.. its difficult to remove at time, a slight pull with a pry bar will jar it loose, careful not to break anything or bend stuff, just remove everything holding it down and it'll come off.

Logan3024

iTrader: (8)

whats up casey. I never waste time removing the IM when replacing the HG. Just pull it in 1 peice, Remove the 2 10mm bolts for the IM brace underneath the car, theres one on each side of the oil filter. Dont forget to remove vac line on the right lower side to the IM also.

boosted.es2

iTrader: (6)

"just pull it in 1 piece" i dont get that, according to the manual you gotta tear the IM off but im sure you knew that already. lol. which vac line are you talkin about? should i replace the timing belt as well?

the reason why i am replacing the headgasket is because my car has been constantly overheating even after i got a new radiator cap and thermostat. i also thought it would be a good time to do it since i have the downtime already. is it worth replacing the headgasket now or no?