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I miss the whole transmission/clutch feel of my 95 sooo bad... just about the only thing I miss about it. Is there a way to get a shorter pedal throw when i do my clutch? Also I'm running just a stock motor and I was wondering what the best would be? Many people tell me Exedy. Are the ones off eBay good or should I go elsewhere? But please give me a response about my pedal. Thanks!

 
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Funny is my pedal feel is goin down too. I am not dropping the clutch or any thing. I just think that my 2002 ex has a weak clutch. I found a clutch setup for our year from a company called spec clutch. My buddy who has a custom hot rod shop here in sac said he runs them on mustangs infact he just built a super charged 5.0 and ran a stage 3 spec clutch it should be around 1000 hp when they customer gets the 25lbs of boost super charger. Any way he recommended I run a stage 2. They are 299 buks and you get all what you need and the stage 2 is made of kevlar! Here is the site http://www.specclutch.com/specMain.html, good luck.

 
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Stage 2 for stock? Or are you running other stuff?

 
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I have a few bolt ons like full exhaust header aem v2 intake and larger wheels. He rec. that model and if you look it shows it has good holding power and has the strength to handle some thing like auto cross. Which is what I would like to do. Just to let you know I only have 30700 miles have never dropped the clutch off the line and have lightly power shifted second, nothing crazy and it is going. It still grabs good but the pedal feel is diff and the enguagement point is very shallow. So I think it is going but could last until I can afford to do it. My only worry is after a good clutch, is putting too much pressure on the tranny. But **** they are so cheap I might just buy one for a just in case!

 
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Meh... I'd rather put something that's fitting to my specs. I'd rather not cause waves... I'm not rich enough for that stuff.

 
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I feel ya. You might want to run a dual centerforce or some thing cheaper. Getting it installed is the biatch. I was goin to do my own but i want a company to do it for the resale of my car. In 2 years might trade up to a new rsx. Ohh ya you can also look on summitracing.com and check them out they price parts really well and they have stuff for our cars!

 
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1. Bolt ons do not warrant anything more than a stock clutch.
2. Its pretty stupid to put on more than the lightest clutch that can hold the power you have for autocross. Its even stupider to put on anything more than a stock clutch because of the severe bump in classing that comes along with it. Most morons behind store counters don't even know what autocross is, let alone what it takes to run it. Even most people who roadrace will use a Honda clutch or an OE replacement clutch.
3. Stage97698235693486 clutches put more wear and tear on your driveline because they grab a heck of a lot harder, with stiffer hub springs or no springs at all, so there's less room for screwups and more shock loading directed to the transmission.
4. Its a hydrotranny, the travel won't change, the only thing you may be able to change is the location it engages.

 
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agreed

 
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Damn... I was hoping I wouldn't get that answer. But since I got practically stock I should just go with an OEM Honda or should I go with an aftermarket company for a stock replacement?

 
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One I am not going to listen to some *** tell me what i should not run. I have been working on cars since 10 years old. And have built many projects one of them being a ford truck with a 351w world heads 202 160's and a toploader 4spd. I went through 4 oem style hd truck clutches in a 1-2 year period. I had far too much tq. I finally blew the toploader and ran a tci small c-6 and blew that up 2 years later. All that was just bolt on heads and stock cam profile and 30 over. With maybe 9.5-1 comp. And no shat it puts more pressure on the tranny if you drive it right you can save it from going out. My pedal eng. point is now very shallow and not half as stiff as when I got it at 28745 miles. So in about 3k miles it has gone out, and you say run the same **** again, I do not think so a stage 2 spec is one under a clutch rated the ultimate street and strip and a tick over a oem style. Whats is wrong with that i mean did you even look at the site or get bitter and reply your great knowledge!

 
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Wait... small question:
I test drove this 95 EX one time and all it had was bolt ons (i/h/e) and I remember the clutch travel was almost half and that's a pnumatic system too... How'd they do it but I can't?

 
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My brother has a 93, and his clutch point and clutch travel was altered.... but a mech did it for him.... mentioned some sort of screw at the very top parts of the clutch pedal. The 93's engagement point seems like just slightly over an inch.

 
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Well, engagement is by adjusting the clutch when it's put in, right? That's what I always thought (with a hydro clutch anyway). But I want to know about travel, cause now I got two instances where the travel was altered.

 
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Well, I could tell you you need driving lessons. Thats probably the only way to kill a clutch in 3000 miles. Or you got a bubble in the clutch line and you need to bleed it out to get the feel back. Before you go running out shitting a brick about needing more holding power (stage 2 tends to be 80-120% over the capacity of stock, which translates to "If you're not running a turbo you don't need it"), maybe you ought to look at the system on the car and figure out if you got some sort of issue. 28000 miles out of 1, then 3000 out of another and I think anyone would agree you're doing something wrong.

<<<------ who has 51000 miles, 3 track days, 50+ autocrosses and 2 new stick shift drivers on the stock clutch and it never slips.

 
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Yea, that seemed kinda odd to me too about all those problems. Cause I beat the HELL outta my stock and I got 58k and I trained like 4 people too. (I'm soo mean to my baby)

 
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If I remember correctly, Arospeed makes an adapter for the clutch pedal that shortens the throw in a fashion similar to how a short throw shift adapter for your shifter works.

 
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Can you find it? And does anyone got any rebuttle to this about how it could damage anything possibly?

 
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I guess you just go to arospeed.com and find it...
http://www.arospeed.com/default.php?cPath=22_124

I don't know if this will even work on civics or how you'd install it. You'd have to call and ask the company or find somebody who has one.

 
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I installed a stage 1 ACT clutch with flywheel and got a much better feel and shorter travel before it grips. About 1/4 of the pedal.

 
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I am far from needing any sort of driving lesson. One I grew up driving emmick carts and dirt bikes. I am very cautious when it comes too my cars and there feel. Bubble in the line really and just how did it get ther, i had a toyota once that had a clutch master leak so bad that it ran down the fire wall. Every couple of days was oops no more pedal add fluid. No air can get in a sealed system, meaning my system is fine and sealed. However this is my first fwd car. I have driven rwd stick all my life. It might be that this oem clutch is breaking into my style. But i do not like the way it feels. It does not feel solid. Almost like the spings in the hub have been too compressed. Also to say that many people have oem stuff and is ok is not always good. I know people with many different exp. with cars in stock form some have had 280k miles on them and some only 56k before spinning a bearing. Stock shat is well shat. Thats why we have upgraded alot of things on our cars. Really was the oem clutch ever designed to run at 7000rpm. I think not. But thats where i rev her to. I really hate to argue about cars, its just a waste of time different people have diff views and experiences and to bash some one for it well is just lame. Either way I am going to leave it be for a while and see what happens. **** I could be way off, it wont be the first or last I am sure. Besides my project truck just took a turn for the better. Just look out for me and putting down over 220+ftlbs of torque out of a carbed 2.3 datsun 4cyl.

 
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But then that truck you have is not a civic. Stock is fine, stage 1 at most, and that is already over doing it. A stock clutch doesnt engage as harshly, so more of the wear and tear is put on your clutch instead of your transmission and other drivetrain parts. The higher that stage, the faster engagement meaning more wear on the transmission. I can't say much as i just had a stage 1 put in, feels stock, but those are the facts.

 
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So not only should you have appropriate power for what clutch you use, but also a more HD trans as well... I know it's common sense, but most people only attribute which clutch with numbers only.

But is that the only thing that could possibly change my pedal travel is the Aerospeed piece? Anybody else got any other ideas?