clutch wear, for all the MT people out there...
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clutch wear, for all the MT people out there...
Ok so what i the deal with downshifting, if you dont put it in the red how much does it wear, people say if you rev match it doesnt wear on the clutch, but does that mean if you dont rev match when up shifting it wears, i blew out my last clutch in my saturn, no that i got the 7th gen i want to not wear the clutch any help...
your clutch is gonna wear either, its not like rev matching won't wear it at all, maybe slower, but either way, its gonna go eventually. You can make it last longer by driving less vigorously. I think what wears the clutch the most is downshifting to a lower gear at a very high speed (aka shifting to 3rd while going 80 or something like that). Since there's no way of "maintaining" your clutch parts, just becareful while driving and every clutch should last you a long time. Plus, if you wanna push your car everyday, get a high perfomance clutch...don't push your stock one, that one stinks when it gets pushed too hard, lol.
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Originally Posted by thefivespeeder
Ok so what i the deal with downshifting, if you dont put it in the red how much does it wear, people say if you rev match it doesnt wear on the clutch, but does that mean if you dont rev match when up shifting it wears, i blew out my last clutch in my saturn, no that i got the 7th gen i want to not wear the clutch any help...
Ok, heres the low down on revmatching.... as in why if you rev-match there is little to no extra wear on the clutch... and it should also inform you that as long as you up shift right there is also little wear on the clutch...
Lets brake the cars drive train in to two parts, the engine + fly wheel and the Clutch + Transmission. We've broken the system down to these parts because. The engine and fly wheel are allways spinning at the same RPM, and the Clutch and transminssion are allways(when in gear) spinning at the same RPM...
Now, Say the engine/Flywheel are spinning at 3,000 RPM's in 5th gear. With the car in gear, the Transmission/clutch will also be spinning at 3,000 RPM's. If you were to Down shift to 4th... As you disconnect the Tranny/cluch from the Engine/fly wheel, the engines RPMs start to drop (your off the gas) when you shift to the lower gear, Due to The Gearing on the car, the Tranny/cluch 's RPM's now jump to 5,000 RPM's If you were to simply let go of the clutch, you would now have an engine/flywheel spinning at some where less then 3,000 RPM's and a transmission/cluch that is spinning some where in the 5,000 RPM range.... when the Flywheel/clutch finaly start to grip eachother, the transmission would instantly try and force the engine to jump to 5,000 RPM's... This is simmilar to droping the clutch when trying to launch the car... Meaning you get tons of clutch wear (Due to clutch slippage), and you can break other parts too. BUT!!! if you were to revmatch, you would Blip the throttle to bring the Engine/Flywheel up to 5,000 RPM's and then release the clutch, you would have a flywheel spinning at aroudn 5,000 RPM's and a Clutch spinning at around 5,000 RPM's.. and when they came in contact, since they are both spinning at approximatly the same speed, there would be Very little if any clutch slipage = Little to no extra clutch wear.
For up shifting, you dont need to rev match simply because as you increase speed, the RPM's the tranny will be at in the next highest gear will be lower then what they are at in the current gear, so as the engines RPMs naturally drop when the clutch is pressed, it acts as sort of a natrual revmatch... so aslong as you arnt too slow or fast with the clutch, there should also be little to no clutch wear on an up shift.
Remember, A good down shift should be heard and not felt! and so should a good up shift.
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Originally Posted by Zzyzx
Ok, heres the low down on revmatching.... as in why if you rev-match there is little to no extra wear on the clutch... and it should also inform you that as long as you up shift right there is also little wear on the clutch...
Lets brake the cars drive train in to two parts, the engine + fly wheel and the Clutch + Transmission. We've broken the system down to these parts because. The engine and fly wheel are allways spinning at the same RPM, and the Clutch and transminssion are allways(when in gear) spinning at the same RPM...
Now, Say the engine/Flywheel are spinning at 3,000 RPM's in 5th gear. With the car in gear, the Transmission/clutch will also be spinning at 3,000 RPM's. If you were to Down shift to 4th... As you disconnect the Tranny/cluch from the Engine/fly wheel, the engines RPMs start to drop (your off the gas) when you shift to the lower gear, Due to The Gearing on the car, the Tranny/cluch 's RPM's now jump to 5,000 RPM's If you were to simply let go of the clutch, you would now have an engine/flywheel spinning at some where less then 3,000 RPM's and a transmission/cluch that is spinning some where in the 5,000 RPM range.... when the Flywheel/clutch finaly start to grip eachother, the transmission would instantly try and force the engine to jump to 5,000 RPM's... This is simmilar to droping the clutch when trying to launch the car... Meaning you get tons of clutch wear (Due to clutch slippage), and you can break other parts too. BUT!!! if you were to revmatch, you would Blip the throttle to bring the Engine/Flywheel up to 5,000 RPM's and then release the clutch, you would have a flywheel spinning at aroudn 5,000 RPM's and a Clutch spinning at around 5,000 RPM's.. and when they came in contact, since they are both spinning at approximatly the same speed, there would be Very little if any clutch slipage = Little to no extra clutch wear.
For up shifting, you dont need to rev match simply because as you increase speed, the RPM's the tranny will be at in the next highest gear will be lower then what they are at in the current gear, so as the engines RPMs naturally drop when the clutch is pressed, it acts as sort of a natrual revmatch... so aslong as you arnt too slow or fast with the clutch, there should also be little to no clutch wear on an up shift.
Remember, A good down shift should be heard and not felt! and so should a good up shift.

Lets brake the cars drive train in to two parts, the engine + fly wheel and the Clutch + Transmission. We've broken the system down to these parts because. The engine and fly wheel are allways spinning at the same RPM, and the Clutch and transminssion are allways(when in gear) spinning at the same RPM...
Now, Say the engine/Flywheel are spinning at 3,000 RPM's in 5th gear. With the car in gear, the Transmission/clutch will also be spinning at 3,000 RPM's. If you were to Down shift to 4th... As you disconnect the Tranny/cluch from the Engine/fly wheel, the engines RPMs start to drop (your off the gas) when you shift to the lower gear, Due to The Gearing on the car, the Tranny/cluch 's RPM's now jump to 5,000 RPM's If you were to simply let go of the clutch, you would now have an engine/flywheel spinning at some where less then 3,000 RPM's and a transmission/cluch that is spinning some where in the 5,000 RPM range.... when the Flywheel/clutch finaly start to grip eachother, the transmission would instantly try and force the engine to jump to 5,000 RPM's... This is simmilar to droping the clutch when trying to launch the car... Meaning you get tons of clutch wear (Due to clutch slippage), and you can break other parts too. BUT!!! if you were to revmatch, you would Blip the throttle to bring the Engine/Flywheel up to 5,000 RPM's and then release the clutch, you would have a flywheel spinning at aroudn 5,000 RPM's and a Clutch spinning at around 5,000 RPM's.. and when they came in contact, since they are both spinning at approximatly the same speed, there would be Very little if any clutch slipage = Little to no extra clutch wear.
For up shifting, you dont need to rev match simply because as you increase speed, the RPM's the tranny will be at in the next highest gear will be lower then what they are at in the current gear, so as the engines RPMs naturally drop when the clutch is pressed, it acts as sort of a natrual revmatch... so aslong as you arnt too slow or fast with the clutch, there should also be little to no clutch wear on an up shift.
Remember, A good down shift should be heard and not felt! and so should a good up shift.

downshifting to slow down is bad idea. brake pads are way cheaper than clutch and tranny parts. and you can do brakes yourself really easy. takes about an hour if you don't have to lift up one wheel at a time....lol
I just burnt my tongue
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if you rev match with a heel-toe and u can do it without riding ur clutch than it will help keep the clutch from burning out fast...but nonsense reving while clutch being engaged is just stupidity
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