fgb000

​​​​​​Hi friends, I am replacing the clutch hydraulic cylinders.
And the manual to lubricate with urea grease the tip top of slave cylinder pin and to lubricate with brake assembly lube the cylinder rubber boot.

And Honda dealers down here doesnt sell the genuine Honda urea Grease.
I also can see that on Amazon or ebay they have it for sale for $10dollars. But to delivery It to me here at my home It would be more $100 dollars, so It doesnt worth It.
What I can find here is this polyurea Grease from Mobil that is called the Polyrex EP Grease that is expensive and comes in a big container, wich I dont need, with that much
the other ones that I can find os the Shell Gadus S3 T1440 thats also expensive and comes in gallons and they will sell It mainly to companies, so...
And the other option there is is this polyurea Grease from a Traktor Company called john Deere:
https://www.johndeerestore.com/jdb2c...ridge/p/TY6341

Will this Grease be a good option for the slave cylinder pin of my​​​ d16y8? Comes in a small container and its cheap. Will It be good for the job?

And please what kind of grease/lube would be the Brake Assembly Lube pointed in the manual?
Brake caliper Grease? Would Thiago be an good option:

Thanks.
Thanks

ezone

I'd probably grab any heavy high pressure grease such as wheel bearing or chassis grease would work for the metal to metal contact point. . A finger full is all you need. Any local garage/shop might give you a glob of it from a grease gun?

Not sure where you mean on this one?

fgb000

Hi this imagem shows where they ask for urea grease and brake assembly lube. Wich I would like to know what I should buy for that please, is that red rubber bentonite grease?

ezone

The picture gives the Honda part number for the urea grease, just order it from your local dealership.
I told you what I would use if I didn't have the correct urea grease on my workbench.






When installing a brand new slave I don't think you should be removing the boot from it to apply (brake assembly lube). It would have been done when it was built. Install it as it was when you received it.

fgb000

Hi, ok you're very clever ezone.
This is what I have got untill now:







The urea grease from that john deeler traktor company is comming throuhg the post mail.

So i don't think i should remove that rubber boot from the slave cylinder ok. But should I fill it with castrol red rubber grease inside , or should I use the pin to deep it in to moisture Its body with red rubber grease and Its head on urea grease?

The other thing Ill do is to place a "regular" screw with a lock nut instead of the regular cotter pin on the clutch pedal hold hole, because they say It does solve the squeaky cilynder noise thing.
Should I be aware of anything else before start doing this replace and bleed diy?
Thanks.

ezone

Fk NO that has to be empty!

Do NOT put any sort of petroleum grease product on anything rubber!


Brake/clutch rubber components are designed to withstand contact with brake fluid, which is completely different from rubber intended to be used with petroleum products.


On the slave, once you poke the pushrod into the boot and pull the rubber up into the groove, it will flex and move with the shaft movement. IOW there won't be any sliding metal against rubber once it's assembled. So I really wouldn't worry about lubing that part.

But I might smear a finger of brake fluid on the pushrod to ease assembly of the boot.


On just the tip of the pushrod where it meets the throwout fork is the only place I'd put heavy grease of any sort. Don't let it contact the rubber.


I might smear the urea grease on the pin for the master. I'd also shoot lube (wd40, lithium, etc) on the overcenter spring (if equipped) that's alongside the pedal on most of the cars (my usual creak noise fix when it's not caused by the master cylinder).

fgb000

Hi , I've changed both cylinders and bled the system spending 1 bottle of Honda dot3.
the DIY was rather an easy job to do.
The worst parts were the cotter pin removal from behind the pedal, and placing the slave cylinder inside the release fork's boot.
But after that everything went fine.
I've noticed already that my clutch is smoother of course, and the sqeaking sound dissapeared after i've bled it. Now I think that noise comes from air in the system when pushing pressure on It.
But after all it keeps grinding when I switch gears, the tranny is not smooth like butter.
It may have changed to a little bit more smoother but not how I was expecting It.
My old clutch master cylinder was leaking already with a lot of black "goo"coming out from the pin rod on the pedal, and now this issue is fixed at least.
But I keep feeling that there is not enough pressure pushing the release fork when I push down the clutch pedal, thats and why my "tranny's changing movement is so dificult and "grindy". On this matter the replacement of both cylinders changed It to a little bit more smoother.
Normaly to make the "switching gears movement on tranny" more smoother like butter I need to go back and forth trying to not "touch" the "grindings" along the tranny's path.
Like the manual tells me to do if I want to switch to reverse I should go to 5th first then come straigth down to the reverse gear.
Im not telling that I would allways need to do this kind of movement on the tranny to make the "path" clear and without grinding anything everytime I change gears. What Im trying to is to fix this and make this tranny relyable so i can think about something else when switching gears : /
I want to feel that like in my Civic '95 where vou can move the tranny from any gear to any gear freely , and It would feel like It the tranny is fixed on a "bucket of butter" down below.

There you can step down the clutch and "come with the tranny from the 5th to 1st without "grinding" or touching any "side walls" or anything along the path.
Its like if there the release fork is very well pushed down, giving me a "clear tranny's path movement". Free, fast, and smooth "stick on butter" movement I have on this '95 tranny when I switch gear. It allways go to a "right destination" without touch any iron stuff along the way.
Now on this '98 the "tranny's path" movement Its all grindy and very slow because im loosing power when I have to delay the movement trying to find a clear path on my tranny to switch gear without grinding.



I did calibrate the master cylinder Rod, by setting It to the same size of the old rod according to the size needed behind the clutch pedal.

I mean is there a fix or calibration for this leão of pressure pushing the release fork?
Or could It be the release fork that is too old already?
Thanks.

ezone

I think it's probably not completely bled, it's still got some air trapped somewhere in the hydraulic system.
That trapped air causes huge problems. Clutch won't fully disengage, causing hard shift and grinding.
These are a huge PITA to get bled out.
There's at least a couple threads here where someone had troubles and a ton of bleeding ideas were tossed around, try searching

I see the new unit looks like the pushrod would need lengthened, but I do final adjustments after it's installed on the firewall and pedal is connected. That's the only way one can measure pedal free play and confirm adjustment is within spec. This needs to be correctly adjusted before bleeding (because if the system is completely bled but adjustment is incorrect, you can end up with the same symptom)

fgb000

How many bottles of Honda dot3 should I expend to bleed all the bubbles out?

ezone

That entire clutch system might hold less than a cup of fluid.
But you could pump gallons of fluid through it for days and never get the TRAPPED air out.


Air rises. The bleeder is on the slave and the slave sits at the BOTTOM of the system.