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There's so much metal in between the rear strut tower braces that I don't think there will be any twist there
If you have sunroof, remove and weld a plate. That will stiffen chassis more
Good points. There is quite a bit of metal between the strut towers in the back. Also, I don't have a sunroof, but I'm sure it's not good for rigidity.
The only other one worth it to me would be a rear Strut Brace. I had a subframe Brace from Progress and I don’t think it did much other then look cool. It was mounted onto an already solid piece of metal.
Problem with rear upper bar is it takes up trunk space!
There was a subframe Brace too but I’m not sure how well it worked.
Thanks. So you're saying that you felt an improvement from a rear strut tower brace? Also, you're right that the subframe is obviously quite solid already, so I don't really see the point in bracing it either.
I never had a rear strut brace for the car but considered getting one.
To clarify as I just re read my post and realized it made no sense. I had a rear subframe Brace (Progress) and l don’t think it did much. Companies used to make front subframe braces for the EM2 that looked like they might make an improvement. The general consensus when I was researching it way back when was a front one helped. None of this is scientific of course.
What's so special about Honda power steering fluid?
I just put my power steering system back on, and I filled the system with ATF because that's what I have extra of. I know I'm technically not supposed to, so there's no need to tell me. I've used standard power steering fluid, as well as ATF in Honda power steering systems for years with no problems, and I know other people that do too. What's different about Honda power steering fluid? Is the viscosity different or something?
Yes I just sent you iTrader rating so I think you can respond with that. If not go under my username and you will see iTrader rating.
Thanks for the positive rating. I always do my very best to communicate clearly and respond quickly when buying or selling something, so I'm glad that this deal worked out so well for both of us.
Re: What's so special about Honda power steering fluid?
It's what the pump and rack are designed to used., problems may develop if the wrong fluid is used. Like putting the wrong viscosity oil in your engine, it may work (for a bit) but eventually it's going to cause problems.
What will help is a tie bar between the seat belt top mounts.
Even more so if you're running no rear seats then you can run a bar between the seat belt mounts and then an x frame to where the rear seats used to be.
Re: What's so special about Honda power steering fluid?
Originally Posted by mac25
Perhaps nothing goes wrong in this situation as you have mentioned.
The owners manual specifically says to never use ATF, and if normal P/S fluid is added in an emergency, the system needs to be flushed and filled with Honda fluid as soon as possible.
Re: What's so special about Honda power steering fluid?
Originally Posted by Colin42
It's what the pump and rack are designed to used., problems may develop if the wrong fluid is used. Like putting the wrong viscosity oil in your engine, it may work (for a bit) but eventually it's going to cause problems.
Yes, I understand. However, what I'm asking is what makes Honda fluid different than standard fluid.
I noticed a small amount of clear liquid by the negative terminal on my Optima Yellow Top D34 battery. I don't see how water would get there since it's mounted in my trunk, but I don't see how acid could leak out of an AGM battery either. The battery is from 2007, but it still works fine. I recently had it tested, and it tested at above its CCA specs. I wiped the liquid off and tilted the battery and nothing leaked out. Do I need to worry about this? Thanks.
They are known sometimes as "seat belt bars" or "harness bars". I'm not sure if there is a company who makes them for 01-05 civics. I've seen them for EP3s (type r), DC5s (rsx) and older EG civics.
there are also c pillar x braces, but these mount in the rear, not off of the seat belt posts. With how the em2 is made I don't think this would be as effective as it is in hatchbacks.
It was probably just condensation. Heat can build up inside the battery and when it escapes it hits cooler air and condensates. If it tested good then no need to worry.
Re: What's so special about Honda power steering fluid?
Originally Posted by D17VTECPOWER
The owners manual specifically says
You can do whatever you want with your cars.
I will continue to use the recommended fluid, and I will never have to stand in front of a judge trying to explain why I didn't use the manufacturers recommended fluid in a customers car.
Ya know what's funny......It's damn rare to see power steering issues on certain cars, but when we do see a specific failure on those particular cars it's almost a given that it's been serviced elsewhere.. Draw your own conclusion from that.
Re: What's so special about Honda power steering fluid?
Originally Posted by ezone
You can do whatever you want with your cars.
I will continue to use the recommended fluid, and I will never have to stand in front of a judge trying to explain why I didn't use the manufacturers recommended fluid in a customers car.
Ya know what's funny......It's damn rare to see power steering issues on certain cars, but when we do see a specific failure on those particular cars it's almost a given that it's been serviced elsewhere.. Draw your own conclusion from that.
I agree. However, I take more risks with my cars than I would with someone else's car. I would NEVER do something questionable to a customer's car.
Re: What's so special about Honda power steering fluid?
Originally Posted by D17VTECPOWER
The owners manual specifically says to never use ATF, and if normal P/S fluid is added in an emergency, the system needs to be flushed and filled with Honda fluid as soon as possible.
It was probably just condensation. Heat can build up inside the battery and when it escapes it hits cooler air and condensates. If it tested good then no need to worry.
Ok, thanks. I guess if it does it again, I could sprinkle baking soda on it and see if it bubbles. I'm not sure if it's even possible for an AGM battery to leak. But yea, the battery tested good, so I'm not too worried. I don't remember the numbers, but the CCA tested at well over what the battery was advertised at.
I noticed a small amount of clear liquid by the negative terminal on my Optima Yellow Top D34 battery. I don't see how water would get there since it's mounted in my trunk, but I don't see how acid could leak out of an AGM battery either. The battery is from 2007, but it still works fine. I recently had it tested, and it tested at above its CCA specs. I wiped the liquid off and tilted the battery and nothing leaked out. Do I need to worry about this? Thanks.
UPDATE: Apparently AGM batteries can leak acid. It did it again, so I put a pinch of baking soda on the liquid to test it, and it's acid. I think it's broke after 11 years. I cleaned around the terminal and smeared silicone around it to try to seal it. Hopefully it quits leaking.
I'm confused about how throttle body spacers work. I know that they go between the throttle body and intake manifold, but why would that help anything? They claim more power, torque and MPG, but how do they work?
Originally they isolated the metal carb from the “hot” steel intake.
Since our cars have plastic intake not really a heat transfer issue, in fact our cars pump coolant into the throttle body to warm it up / keep it from getting too hot.
As long as it comes with a cool sticker, you can get something useful from it.
Originally they isolated the metal carb from the “hot” steel intake.
Since our cars have plastic intake not really a heat transfer issue, in fact our cars pump coolant into the throttle body to warm it up / keep it from getting too hot.
As long as it comes with a cool sticker, you can get something useful from it.
Actually, mine has an aluminium intake. I presume a TB spacer wouldn't do any good though.
Since it's after the TB they also, in effect, increase the manifold plenum size.
This is more important for older vehicles when people "tuned" physically rather than with software for N/A builds.
Back in the day if you wanted to jack up your fuel intake by adding a larger carb. then you needed (for some vehicles), to increase the flow of air into the engine. So larger throttle bodies, intake manifolds, intakes and TB spacers where used to try and match the air flow to the fuel flow.
People still do this but tunable ECUs make it much easier to match air and fuel ratios.
Since it's after the TB they also, in effect, increase the manifold plenum size.
Would more plenum volume be a good thing on a MPFI engine? I thought a larger plenum volume would deaden throttle response. The whole point of ITBs is to basically eliminate the volume in the intake manifold that's under vacuum. The less volume under vacuum, the faster air will fill the space and the quicker the engine will respond to throttle.
03-16-2018
I cleaned around the terminal and smeared silicone around it to try to seal it. Hopefully it quits leaking. 
