lollygagger

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php

Put in your year, model, and maker, then under engine is Oil Pan Gasket.
8$ for Rock's own product. Not difficult but you will need to remove somethings to get at it.

lollygagger

I heard you have to remove the lower downpipe to get the thing off but that shouldn't be too much of a hassle. Here's two pages from the manual that should help out. You shouldn't need the liquid gasket, but it won't hurt.

spelunker1

This should help you with your problem. See attached Drawings for fuel injector / spark plug exterior manifold drawings. The VX6 is designed to systematically draw correlations between various active points in a statistically unbalanced chemical markup, in order to reduce reactivity in its final solution. This is done by using deltas. The higher the delta the machine can function on, the more efficiently is can draw correlations based on corroborating separate inconsistencies in pressurized environments. In order to do this without failure, the machine must achieve its prime vector. Of course it can also be used to solve physical logic problems, or make music and light displays from scratch.

A Volt Xoccula module is a lot like a computer, but with more industrial functionality. It has several, several parts that can be constantly upgraded, replaced, hacked, and changed in as many ways as there are stars in the sky. Basically, if you have enough technical know-how, you can do ANYTHING you want with the machine.

jdawgzcivic

Thanks Lollygagger!
I called the "Stealership" and they have the Oil Pan Gasket for $40. Are they the same as this one? The ones from RockAuto are better than the one from the "Stealership"? Any specific brand you recommend? Thanks again! Appreciate the diagrams!!

jdawgzcivic

Thanks Lollygagger for the diagram...
Is this oil pan gasket located on the bottom? From the diagram, I'm not familiar with it and can't tell if this is from the top view or bottom view. Appreciate your help! Thanks!

BobDobolina

If your going to change it yourself, may as well get under there and look!The seam between the block and the pan should be obvious, lined with bolts and such. with the drain plug on it. Just follow the seam...If you still cant see it, maybe you should just ante up LOL!Just sayin you gotta 'git er dun' lol thats my redneck joke of the day...No offense fellow rednecks, I love Lynyrd Skynyrd and confederate flag license plates too!

lollygagger

Top left is looking inside of it once removed. Bottom left is looking down on the outside before adding the gasket. Top right is looking at the outside telling you where to bolt it back.

Xx7thGenxX

kinda random and not helpful, but i got to chaNge my waterpump and timing belt tomorrow...

lollygagger

Oh jeez man you gonna do that yourself?? Best of luck!

BobDobolina

Meh, it aint bad if you follow creaker2's DIY HERE
And FYI a 26mm socket with an air ratchet does the trick for tightening the damn thumb screws on the alternator an P/S pump

lollygagger

I was thinking about doing it. But I'm not sure I can handle it. Patience wise and time wise lol on the other hand it doesnt look too bad. indecisive!

BobDobolina

Oh c'mon man, it aint that hard! I never did it before, and had it completed inside a weekend following that DIY. If you need any help/advice or more pics, I got tons LOL.


Just make absolutely positive, beyond any doubt, without any margin of ANYthing, that you have the cam and crank BOTH at TDC AFTER you tension the belt...its a b1tch, but not impossible.

and lollygagger, if you can do body work like you posted, you can do a T belt!

MindBomber

+1 if you can do body work you can do a timing belt!

lollygagger

haha alright maybe i will give it a shot. if you guys think it's easy, how can it be hard!

Xx7thGenxX

im getting mie done at a shop i definetly do not want to f**k it up lol